I only occasionally wear vintage these days, but I love looking at it. Above are a few snapshots I took at the Vintage Fashion Expo this past weekend. Leather jackets, Aloha shirts, and vintage tweed were everywhere. It was an orgy of old clothes, and I loved it.

The next expo is in San Francisco, November 1st and 2nd. In February, the show returns to Los Angeles, where it will run in the same building and at the same time as Inspiration LA, which I visited a couple of years ago.

Among the many pieces at the Vintage Fashion Expo in Los Angeles this past weekend were some truly spectacular Western shirts. The bottom one was the true prize - custom-made and hand embroidered for a rodeo star whose name is now lost to time. It dates to roughly the late 1940s.

I attended the Vintage Fashion Expo this past weekend here in Los Angeles. It’s a semi-annual affair that brings together dozens of vintage dealers from around the country.

Like many of these affairs, most of the dealers were women and most of the clothes were for women, but there were some men (and men’s clothes) in evidence as well. Above are a few of the dealers who travel the nation buying and selling vintage menswear.

Brown and Beyond

The navy blazer is commonly considered the most versatile kind of sport coat you can own, and for good reason. You can pair with almost any kind of trousers, and if made in the right weight, it can be worn year-round. Or, if your climate is less temperate than ours in California, consider getting something in a mid- to heavyweight wool (like a hopsack weave) for the fall and winter seasons, and then a lighter weight tropical wool for the spring and summer months.

Although this is pretty good, standard advice, I’ve long thought that the most useful color for sport coats is actually brown. Especially for this time of year. Think of dark brown or golden tan corduroys, or any kind of tweed — solid brown Shetlands, fuzzy herringbones or houndstooths, or any of the checks you see in the first photo above (which is of the Duke of Windsor’s closet, who was a very daring and dandy dresser, but also know the value of sedate brown coats). 

In fact, if you don’t want to have a massive wardrobe, you could get along just fine with one or two navy sport coats and a couple more in brown. 

For a little more variety, however, my friend Andrew Yamato recently wrote a good post about fall jackets at A Suitable Wardrobe. As he notes, fall justifies the bringing out of colors such as rusty reds, burnt oranges, slate blues, ochre yellows, and mossy olives. I think olive sport coats are particularly useful in the fall — quiet and conservative enough for men who don’t want to stand out too much, but also a nice deviation from the usual colors most of us wear.

Pair these with ancient madder ties, chunky sweaters, suede shoes, and fuzzy flannel trousers. Ribbed corduroys and cavalry pants will also work well, if you want to expand your wardrobe in that direction. Otherwise, chinos make for a nice three-season, spring-through-fall alternative. Shirts should probably be light blue oxford cloth button downs, not just because they have the right visual weight to hold their own against heavier sport coats, but also because I think they’re the best kind of shirts

(Photos via Mister Crew and A Suitable Wardrobe

It’s on Sale: Filson at the Clymb

Speaking of Americana, Seattle’s best outerwear and soft luggage maker Filson is significantly discounted at flash sale outdoor gear the Clymb. A few slimmer “Seattle fit” jackets and shirts and a bunch of relatively simple and pleasantly utilitarian tote bags are included. Might as well buy on sale.

-Pete

Language and Style

"When the fashion industry first began to describe a style of dress that emerged in the 1990s among certain young men in places such as Washington, Los Angeles and New York, it settled on the words ‘street’ and ‘urban.’

The terms referred to a look that enthusiastically embraced athletic references, leaned to oversize silhouettes and had an undercurrent of defensive aggression. The clothes were not so much about status as tribalism. They were pricier than a Gap T-shirt or Champion sweatpants, but they were far from the realm of the rarefied.

With their choice of adjectives, fashion insiders pushed the distinctive look to the side. It was the purview of black kids, Latino teens and other young folks who commuted through their world. Though the aesthetic had been born on America’s vibrant streets and among its aspiring youth, it was not deemed “Americana.” That term was reserved for field jackets and buffalo plaid shirts.”

-Robin Givhan in the Washington Post on streetwear’s relationship to fashion.

-Pete

He’s Back
Guido Wongolini is back in a coat and tie. 
(Photo via mostexerent)

He’s Back

Guido Wongolini is back in a coat and tie. 

(Photo via mostexerent)

Put This On’s Inside Track for the week of October 19th - October 25th

Here are our hand-selected favorites from eBay for this week, plus heads-up on recommended sales. If you’re a member of the Inside Track, click through, and log in with your Member.ly username and password.

If you’re not a member, you can join now for just $5 a month - you’ll get access to one of these members-only lists every week, and your membership supports Put This On.

See the rest →

It’s On Sale: Herring Shoes

If you’re located in the US and interested in (relatively) affordable footwear, rejoice. Herring’s shoes are now available through a US store. Traditionally, most guys have had to purchase their Herrings through the company’s UK site, but that comes with customs and duties, and possibly a bit of hassle if you have to make a return or an exchange.

Now, however, they’re available at Gentlemen’s Footwear, which is an online shop located in San Diego. They offer free shipping, and while returns come with a 10% restocking fee, exchanging for size is easy. This takes some of the stress out if you just want to try out the brand to see if it’s right for you. 

At the moment, Gentlemen’s Footwear is running a promotion on their entire Herring stock. Take 10% off with the checkout code herring10. That puts these suede oxfords at $175 and these black cap toes at $265. Sale items can be returned as well (just not Last Pair Clearance items).

eBay Roundup
There are some great shell cordovan shoes up right now on eBay in the form of boots, loafers, and wingtips. I particularly like the first two, but the wingtips are arguably more versatile. 
As usual, if you don’t see anything here you like, you can also find more eBay auctions using our customized search links. They’ll help you quickly hone in on high-end suits, good suits, high-quality shirts and fine footwear. 
Suits, sport coats, and blazers

Cotton Boglioli sport coat, 40

Outerwear

Burberry leather A2 bomber, XS
Patrik Ervell shirt jacket, S
Gray work jacket, S
Barbour waxed jacket, 40
TM Lewin raincoat, M or L 
Tan duffle coat, 42
Camo field jacket, L
Belstaff motorcycle jacket, L (black, tan)
Gray duffle coat, L
Nigel Cabourn Aircraft jacket (42, 44)
Black denim trucker jacket, XL
Channel quilted jacket, XL
Black field jacket, XXL

Sweaters and knits

Club Monaco burgundy v-neck sweater, XS
Brooks Brothers brown v-neck sweater, S
Drumhor navy mock neck cardigan, S
John Smedley brown v-neck sweater, S
SNS Herning cardigan, S
Gray wool crewneck, M
Ralph Lauren cowichan, L
Green Kapital jacket, L
Wings + Horns navy cardigan, XL
Red Shetland sweater, XL
Tan cardigan, 44
Nigel Cabourn red Surface jacket, 44
Blue Shetland sweater, 46

Shirts and pants


Blue button up shirts, various sizes
Casual shirts, various sizes
Light blue shirts, XS or S (1, 2, 3)
Sugar Cane Hawaiian shirt, M/ L
Tattersall Chimala shirt, L
Brown corduroy shirt, XL
Mabitex moleskin and corduroy trousers, 34


Shoes

Carmina shoes, various sizes
Allen Edmonds horse bit loafers, 6EE
Common Projects Achilles Lows, 8
Black Margiela GATs, 9
Ralph Lauren chukka boots, 9
Viberg service boots, 9
Suede tassel loafers, 9.5
Shell cordovan boots, 9.5 (pictured above)
Suede Chelsea boots, 9.5
Shell cordovan loafers, 9.5E
Russell Moccasin boots, 10
Brown pebble grained boots, 10
Edward Green loafers, 10
Shell cordovan wingtips, 10
Brooks tassel loafers, 10.5C
Nigel Cabourn x Converse brown sneakers, 10.5
Crockett & Jones boots, 10.5
Common Projects track shoes, 11

Ties


Panta ties
Striped Brooks Brothers ties
Brown grenadine
Donegal knit tie
Gold Huntsman tie
Navy floral tie
Striped bow tie


Bags, briefcases, and wallets

Hudson’s Bay Company tote bag
Hermes card case (1, 2)
Ettinger bi-fold wallet
Vintage shoulder bag
Tusting bridle leather bag
Filson canvas briefcase

Misc.

Bunch of fragrance/ cologne samples
Swim shorts, various sizes
Blue/ red surcingle belt, 34
Plaid cashmere scarf
Plaid Brooks Brothers scarves
Trips, Travels, and Long Weekends book
Fancy soap box
Boro scarf
Blue knitted cap

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On’s Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

eBay Roundup

There are some great shell cordovan shoes up right now on eBay in the form of bootsloafers, and wingtips. I particularly like the first two, but the wingtips are arguably more versatile. 

As usual, if you don’t see anything here you like, you can also find more eBay auctions using our customized search links. They’ll help you quickly hone in on high-end suitsgood suitshigh-quality shirts and fine footwear

Suits, sport coats, and blazers
Outerwear
Sweaters and knits
Shirts and pants
Shoes
Ties
Bags, briefcases, and wallets
Misc.