Put This On

My “ten essentials” are up over at Style Hunting.

I made something.

A few months ago, my wife and I decided to learn to sew.  Our ambitions, to begin, were modest.  She would maybe make a skirt, or a romper.  I would make a scarf.

Of course, the sewing classes at my local community college were all-female affairs (with the exception of yours truly), and they were dedicated to making skirts.  Luckily, I was able to pick up enough skill that when my mom found us a sewing machine at an estate sale, I achieved my dreams: a scarf.

First, I bought some Harris Tweed yardage on eBay.  The color is tough to see in the photo - it’s sort of a gunmetal gray, with a tinge of blue and flecks of green and blue-green.  Then I headed down to my local fabric superstore (Michael Levine, in downtown LA) for a lining.  I initially intended to go with silk, but was struck by a beautiful linen woven in Italy by Armani.  I’m not a huge Armani fan, myself, but the fabric was undeniable, and had the heft to stand up to the tweed, along with the softness to be next to my tender neck.

I cut the fabric (the scarf is about 6”x70”), pinned it, sewed the edges to bind them, then ran a straight stitch down three and a half sides.  Got my fingers in there, pulled it right side out, and pressed the seams flat with my iron.  Then I closed the hole I’d pulled it through with a bit of Tear Mender, and voila!

Who knows… maybe if you’re lucky I’ll start a side business.

Photos from the Jazz Age Picnic at New York’s Governor’s Island, over at the Fine & Dandy blog.

“I am a class act.”

“I’m going to the prom.”

It’s On eBay

Magazine Stand by Ettinger of London

Had no idea that the legendary leathersmiths even made anything like this.  Cooler than cool: ice cold.

Started at $7.75, ends Monday

(via moderndistinction, zebragoesmeow)

If you’re a big guy, like me, this is a time to think about wider lapels like those Polo has introduced this year.  More than fashion, this is about proportionality.  Put very skinny lapels on a big man and they start to look like a goofy costume.  Here, the high notch on wider lapels emphasize the shape of the suit.

On the left is Jawaharlal Nehru, the legendary Indian leader, wearing his namesake collar.  Muhammad Ali Jinnah, on the right, was the founder of Pakistan.  They look wonderfully, elegant, don’t they?

(via The Naked Ape Gets Dressed)

It’s On Sale

Filson Pullman Suitcase

This is the case I carry when I travel.  Fits a week’s worth of clothes easily, including shoes, and is sized for carry-on.  Note that it has no wheels, however, if that’s your thing.

$259 from $370 at Cable Car Clothiers (price will change in-cart)

Why the Four-In-Hand?

Since we released episode three of Put This On last week, certain people have asked: “why is the four-in-hand the only tie knot you need to know?”  What about the (Pratt, Windsor, Half-Windsor, Knot Geek Knot, Meat-and-Two-Veg, &c.)?

Well, I’ll tell you why.

First, though: a caveat.  While no man needs to wear a bow-tie during the day, if you are planning on donning black tie, you will need to know how to tie a bow tie.  Or at least how to budget an hour of time to figure it out before you leave the house.

Back to long ties.

Most who have written have told me that the four-in-hand is too sloppy, lopsided, or small to be suitable.  This, of course, presumes that symmetry, neatness and large size are desirable in a necktie knot.  They are not.

Regarding size: if you’re wearing a good tie, the four-in-hand will be plenty large for any collar.  If you prefer, you can double it (once more around) for extra beefiness.  There’s no need for big fat Stuart Scott monstrosities under the chin; you’ll look like a buffoon.

Regarding neatness and symmetry: a necktie knot should never be neat.  A necktie knot should be expressive.  It should be human.  As Glenn O’Brien puts it, “Real elegance involves impeccable taste and a peccable sense of nonchalance.”  And everyone who’s anyone agrees with us.

So: play around with the Pratt or the Half-Windsor.  Come back to the four-in-hand.  The one that matters.