“I see all too many small men (or very tall) wearing Italian clothes that are cut too close to the body, with trousers that are too tight, too short in the rise, and too short. Shoulders that should be cut broadly to give natural easy shape are made too narrow, and consequently the coats are narrow, thin, and shapeless. These styling errors display the shortness (or thinness) of the man rather than cloaking it gracefully. If you wish to wear tight clothes, then make sure you possess an intermediate physique. The perfect 5’10” with a modest build would be fine.”

Wise words from Michael Alden. They remind me of two similar pieces of advice. In my interview with him, Tony Chang (the head of Ascot Chang), noted that men with overly heavy or thin builds should wear shirts slightly fuller than normal, so that they may be presented in the most flattering way possible. Niidawg wrote something similar when he said that he finds himself looking slimmer in well-fitting clothes than overly tight ones. 

The slim look may be fashionable, but it’s not meant for every build. Always keep a critical eye on what flatters you the most.