Put This On

Transparency in Fashion The Financial Times published an...

derekguypto — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 10:24:37 -0800

Transparency in Fashion

The Financial Times published an interesting article last week on a new online retailer that is taking a strong stance on transparency:

You go to “collection” and, say, you click on a coat. Under the section “material information” you will find the description of material used, its composition, weight, yarn or piece-dyed, the origin of the raw material, who spun it, who wove it, whether it is organic, if so, what certificate it has earned (and what said certificate means), and a website for the supplier – and you will find this for the fabric, the zipper, the lining, the trim, the label, the buttons, the thread and so on.

Meanwhile, under “price information”: you will find out the cost per metre of the fabric, how much was ordered, how much was used, how much labour was involved, what the mark-up was, and how the profit was used.

In other words, by the time you press “buy” you will know exactly what you are paying for.

The journalist who wrote the piece said it could be the start of a revolution. That’s a pretty liberal use of the word, but still, I think this is an important development.

One of the many problems in the fashion industry, I think, is that any and all potentially meaningful words quickly get abused through marketing. Not that this is exclusive to fashion, but since this is a site about clothing, we start here.

“Handmade” can mean anything from an artisan working with just a needle and thread to someone feeding something through a machine. “Made in Italy” has become mostly a marketing term since complex production chains and WTO Rules of Origin have allowed things to be made in China, then sent to Italy for minor finishing, and then sold with the tag “Made in Italy.” Cashmere used to mean a high-quality, soft, strong and insulating wool, but is now used to market things even lower-end than your good cottons. “Heritage brand” could have meant something, but now there are companies started by men younger than me, and they call their brands “heritage companies.”

Of course, it’s not a given that transparent labeling will translate to better purchasing decisions. But as nutrition labels have helped a small segment of health conscious Americans make better decisions, I’d like to think better labels on clothing will do the same. Break down the production chain, tell us where each part of the production process was done, where things are sourced, and how much each step cost, and you would get a much less cynical consumer base.

Interested in contributing to Put This On?

jessethorn — Sat, 04 Feb 2012 09:22:00 -0800

If you’re interested in contributing to Put This On, either on an occasional or continuing basis, drop us a line. We’re looking for both, on a paid basis.

Include a brief introduction, what kind of contributions you’d be interested in making, and include a sample piece that would be appropriate for PTO. This can either be a link to a previously-published piece elsewhere or an original piece in the 500-1000 word range. Take a look at our “Best Of” category for an idea of the sort of piece we like to publish. We’re looking for clarity, usefulness, surprising persectives and a pleasant tone. You can include a resume as well, if you’d like.

One further note: if you’re an expert in women’s style with a lively writing style, we’d love to talk to you, too. A similar note would be appreciated.

You can reach us at contact@putthison.com. Use the subject line “I’m A Writer” so we can find your application.

"It takes nine tailors to make a man."

derekguypto — Sat, 04 Feb 2012 09:00:05 -0800

“It takes nine tailors to make a man.”

- Royal King and Loyal Subject by John Heywood

No, Joe! YOU look great!

jessethorn — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 12:24:07 -0800

No, Joe! YOU look great!

eBay Round Up Although it’s well outside of most...

derekguypto — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 09:00:00 -0800

eBay Round Up

Although it’s well outside of most people’s financial means, that gentleman’s travel case is something to behold. Go check it out.

We have a good number of suits and shoes today, but should you want to find more, search eBay using our special links for excellent suits, good suits, and well made footwear.

Suit, sport coats, and blazers

Outerwear

Sweaters and knits

Shirts and pants

Fray blue shirt, 16
Charvet, Brioni, Brooks Bros shirts, 16.5
Incotex brown chinos, 30
Bill’s Khakis M3 olive chinos (32, 36, 37)
Cordings wide waled cords, 36

Shoes

Ties

Bags, briefcases, and wallets

Misc.

* Big thanks again to Kenn for sending along some very special links, including the one to that gentleman’s travel case.

Quarter for your Thoughts One of the most important areas to pay...

derekguypto — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:00 -0800

Quarter for your Thoughts

One of the most important areas to pay attention to when examining the fit of a suit or sport coat is what online menswear enthusiasts like to call the “quarters.” This is the section of the jacket that sits right below the buttoning point. Professional tailors refer to the area as the “front” or “front of the skirt,” but this is just a difference in terminology.

A jacket can be made with open or closed quarters (or, correspondingly, straight or cutaway fronts). On a jacket with open quarters, the fronts will cutaway a bit below the buttoning point. Likewise, on a jacket with closed quarters, they will fall straight down.

They’re never completely straight, of course. The lounge suit evolved from the riding coat, which was heavily shaped by King George IV. The King was one of the first royals in the 19th century to be an arbiter of fashion and taste, and he had the fronts of his riding coat cut away to make way for the saddle and horse’s flanks. It was quite unflattering on him, actually, because of his large stomach, but was indubitably la mode. Thus the fashion stuck and we now have the design on the modern lounge suit.

What you choose for yourself is a matter of personal taste. Very closed quarters might give you a “Y-shaped” silhouette, while open quarters will make your jacket form a bit of an “X.” I personally prefer open quarters, though nothing too extreme. I like the swooping line they create from the top of the lapel down to the hem. It’s a slightly more dynamic look that I think works well on young, slim men.

Of course, people differ. A friend of mine, Cooper Frederickson, once joked that strongly open quarters looked like something Diamond Dallas Page would wear. We agreed in the end that Page is probably a strictly Men’s Warehouse kind of man, but the point is well taken.

Pictured above: Simon Crompton on the left and Takahiro Osaki on the right. Crompton is wearing a bespoke British suit (I’ve forgotten the maker) with closed fronts while Taka is wearing something more open from Liverano & Liverano.

How to fold a shirt for travel

jessethorn — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 07:17:19 -0800

How to fold a shirt for travel

voxsart: 1963. Sidney Poitier and Harry Belafonte, Washington,...

jessethorn — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 06:39:28 -0800

voxsart:

1963.

Sidney Poitier and Harry Belafonte, Washington, D.C.

I’m inclined to call their style “unimpeachable.”

edwinhu: That Bill Cunningham jacket by Beams+. What could...

jessethorn — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 06:17:45 -0800

edwinhu:

That Bill Cunningham jacket by Beams+.

What could better celebrate the most democratic (only democratic?) man in fashion than a $500 reproduction of the chore coats he buys at the hardware store?

Fashion industry: you never cease to amaze me.

Seriously. The balls.

Avoiding Buyer’s Regret When you’re shopping for...

derekguypto — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 09:00:00 -0800

Avoiding Buyer’s Regret

When you’re shopping for clothes, there are probably a dozen or more variables to consider before you make a purchase. Unfortunately, most of these considerations can get muddled, and if you don’t parse them out carefully, you can buy something for the wrong reasons. So I thought I’d rank some of the principle considerations: fit, style, construction, and branding, in that order. When deciding whether or not to buy something, go through these considerations in order of importance and you’ll minimize your likelihood of ending up with buyer’s regret.

Fit

As they say, fit is king. The first thing anyone notices, even before style, is whether your clothes fit well. A man would look better in a well-fitting pair of jeans and a t-shirt before he would would nice in a sloppy suit.

What fits is what flatters. This point may seem basic, but it’s amazing how rarely you see it practiced. Men who aren’t style conscious tend to wear clothes too big, while men who pay a lot of attention often wear things too tight. Proper fitting clothes hit in the right places and give you clean lines, no matter what your movement or position. Shoulder seams should end around the shoulder bone, and clothes shouldn’t be so baggy that they fold, nor be so tight that they pull.

Style

Always remember that fit comes before style. There’s no quicker way to catch buyer’s regret than to buy something that’s stylish, but doesn’t fit perfectly. Once you find something that fits, however, consider whether the garment has all the design details you’re looking for. If you want something that will last, avoid things that veer too strongly towards one design trend. As a very general rule of thumb, I find simple, classic designs to be best.

You may also want to consider how versatile the garment is. Basic blues, greys, and browns will help you build in that versatility, as all those colors are easy to incorporate. To be sure, there’s a lot of room for dark greens, burgundies, and other livelier colors. However, make sure you’re not buying something that you can only wear with one pair of trousers or one jacket. You should seek to build a wardrobe, not a collection of outfits.

Construction

Some may be surprised that I rank construction so low on the list of considerations. However, a garment’s design will always be the bigger determinant of its lifespan. Most clothes are made to last at least a couple of years now. If a jacket is made with skinny lapels, for example, its style will give out much sooner than its cloth. Thus, while I strongly believe people should invest in higher quality purchases, I also think that they should prioritize fit and style above quality. If it doesn’t look good on you or work with the rest of your wardrobe, the quality of its construction will mean very little.

Branding

Finally, there is branding. Everyone succumbs to this to some extent. We buy clothes partly to express the person we are, and partly the person we wish to be. We may also buy something because of the lifestyle it represents. It may not be the most “rational” of considerations, but it’s no less real or enjoyable. Clothes in this sense are romantic; they make life less dull. It would be crotchety to deny or condemn it. At the same time, you should be aware of what you’re doing, and only do so if it meets the other criteria above.

Conclusion

Of course, ideally, you should make purchases that fulfill every one of these categories (with the exception of maybe branding). However, people have limited means, time, and patience for such things, and not everyone is going to spend the next few months searching for the perfect shirt. Thus, for the non-neurotic, you now have neatly parsed considerations that you can prioritize in order to make better buying decisions.

Purchase things for the right reasons. Buy something because it’s well-made before you buy into a brand; buy something well designed before you buy into its quality; most importantly, buy something because it fits well before you consider anything else.

A nice guy at Richmond Park asked “do you mind if I take a...

jessethorn — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 07:29:00 -0800

A nice guy at Richmond Park asked “do you mind if I take a picture of the photographers in the tweed caps?”

Our London team.

Wearing semi-matching hats completely accidentally. It was cold outside.

You F*ckers, I’m Back It’s 5 AM in Los Angeles, but...

jessethorn — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 06:13:12 -0800

You F*ckers, I’m Back

It’s 5 AM in Los Angeles, but I’m up and at ‘em, thanks to the effects of jetlag. I’m finally back from two and a half hard weeks of shooting on Put This On season two. We’ve got a few little things to pick up here and there, but we’re essentially wrapped.

Hopefully I’ll have a bit more time to contribute around here - my thanks to Derek for picking up the slack while I was out making video magic.

I hope everyone is starting to get excited about season two. I certainly am!

Just saw a note over on StyleForum that our friends Kieran &...

jessethorn — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 06:05:00 -0800

Just saw a note over on StyleForum that our friends Kieran & Shaun Molloy at Molloy & Sons have gotten some stock together for retail sale. This is a relief to me, as ever since I posted our video on the Molloys, I’ve been inundated with questions about when consumers will be able to buy yardage from them. The price is a modest 39 Euros per meter, and they have a selection of basic styles in a traditional heavy weight of 18 oz for the plains and 20.5 for the herringbones. You can see the selection on Flickr here, and get in touch with Shaun & Kieran directly here to place an order.

I had the first length I bought while I was visiting the Molloys made up into a suit last month, and you’ll be able to see it in our second season.

Our thanks to Time’s NewsFeed for including us in their...

jessethorn — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 05:22:00 -0800

Our thanks to Time’s NewsFeed for including us in their roundup of “30 Must-See Tumblr Blogs!”

As producers Jesse Thorn and Adam Lisagor say, Put This On is “a Web series about dressing like a grownup.” More specifically, it’s about men dressing like grownups. In the men’s-fashion world, it’s tough to find advice that’s practical and smart, because the general pool from which to choose is far smaller than in the women’s-fashion online world.

This isn’t to lessen the impact of Put This On — it would stand out even in a sea of men’s-fashion blogs. Put This On features high-end wares found at reasonable prices and provides easy-to-use guides on how men can make what they wear part of who they are. Thorn and Lisagor employ a variety of methods — link aggregation, videos, narratives, Q&As — to offer information to men who want to dress well and be sophisticated without a lot of hassle and without being talked down to as if they’ve never worn clothes before.

eBay Round Up Check out these eBay auctions Jesse and I found. I...

derekguypto — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 09:00:05 -0800

eBay Round Up

Check out these eBay auctions Jesse and I found. I personally like the Smythson travel photo frames, Cucinelli quarter zip, and Brooks Brothers flannel trousers. If you want to find more auctions, however, use our search links for excellent suits, good suits, and well made footwear. They’ll help you filter out the obvious chaff, and if you fiddle with the navigation side bar, you can hone in on things in your size.

Suits, sport coats, and blazers

Outerwear

Sweaters and knits

Shirts and pants

Phineas Cole shirts, 14.5 (blue, purple)
Brooks Brothers contrast collar shirt, 16.5
Borrelli navy chinos, 32
Brooks Brothers flannel trousers, 35

Shoes

Lee Kee black oxfords, 9.5
Alden shell shortwings, 10
Poulsen Skone suede chukkas, ~10/10.5
Paul Stuart black derbys, 10.5
Allen Edmonds black double monks (11, 9E)

Bags, briefcases, and wallets

Ties

Drake’s red flower tie
Polo Ralph Lauren wool glen plaid tie
Brooks Brothers red striped grenadine tie
Brooks Brothers bow ties
Marinella ties (pindot, geometric)
W Bill paisley tie
Ralph Lauren Purple Label navy striped tie
Arneys navy tie
Hermes ties (blue, green)
Some nice wool ties
Sulka ties (polka dots, stripes)
Rubinacci ties (green, red)
Sulka red dotted bow tie
Paul Stuart puppytooth tie

Misc.

Dealing with Bad Weather Every year starts off with a few months...

derekguypto — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 09:00:00 -0800

Dealing with Bad Weather

Every year starts off with a few months of bad weather. First there is snow, then the snow turns to slush, and finally the slush gives way to showers. Depending on where you live, these conditions can put a real beating on your clothes, so it’s good to know how to best take care of them.

Salt Stains on Shoes

The best care is preventative. There are a number of treatments that can give your shoes a superficial layer of protection. Use a thin layer of wax polish on calf leather dress shoes and mink oil lotion on work or hiking boots (you can buy both at most shoe repair shops). Note that you don’t want to use mink oil on dress shoes; if you do, your shoes will never take a proper shine.

For added protection, use a pair of overshoes. Swims makes an attractive flocked version that slips on easily, while Tingley makes a very affordable (albeit less attractive) model. You can read Jesse’s review of Tingley here.

If you’ve picked up salt stains despite these measures, however, you need to treat them as soon as you get home. Mix one part vinegar to two parts water (or half and half for more serious stains). Brush off your shoes with a horsehair brush to remove any dirt, then dab a soft towel in the solution and gently use it to wipe off the stain. Once you’re done, use a clean damp towel to wipe off any vinegar residue. Leave it to dry for 30 minutes and repeat as needed. You want to work through this slowly, patiently, and gently; rubbing too hard can also damage your shoes. Once you’ve gotten the stain out, apply leather conditioner, polish, and wax again so that they’re protected next time you use them.

If the salt has raised the leather on your shoes (ie given it a welt), use a bottom end of a spoon and press down on the leather.

Drenched Shoes

If you’ve been going through a downpour, your shoes are probably soaked through. Again, the best care is preventative, so follow the steps above. You can also spray a suede protectant on suede. Suede should be fine in the rain, though I wouldn’t advise using it in the snow.

Once you get home, stuff your shoes with newspaper and lay them on their side (as the soles need to dry the most). You may want to change the paper every few hours just to make it effective. After they’re dry, stick unvarnished cedar shoe trees in them and leave them alone for two days so they can fully recover. Resist any temptation to set them near a heater. Doing so will only dry out and crack the leather.

Mold

If wet clothes or umbrellas aren’t allowed to dry properly, they’re at risk of developing mold. Once mold grows, they can develop a smell that can be very, very difficult to get out.

To prevent this, brush off your jackets or coats with a clothes brush once you get home. I use a separate brush for this from the one I regularly use to clean my clothes. Once the snow or water has been brushed off, hang your garment on a sturdy wooden hanger (ideally with wide shoulders) and leave it in an area with good air circulation.

For umbrellas, gently shake them out a bit, but be careful not to ruin the ribs. Once you’ve gotten most of the snow or water off, leave them completely open and let them dry in a place with good air circulation. Again, don’t set them near heaters, however, as you risk damaging the canopy. Most umbrellas are made with materials that are designed to dry quickly, so this shouldn’t take too long. Once it’s dry, neatly furl the umbrella and store it away.

Put This On's Inside Track for the week of January 30th - February 5th

derekguypto — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 07:07:05 -0800

Here are our hand-selected favorites from eBay for this week. If you’re a member of the Inside Track, click through, and log in with your Member.ly username and password. If you’re not a member, you can join now for just $5 a month. Your membership supports Put This On.

See the rest →

In case sh*t goes down. (via Dinosaurs & Robots)

jessethorn — Sun, 29 Jan 2012 23:52:34 -0800

In case sh*t goes down.

(via Dinosaurs & Robots)

In honor of our last day in Europe, here’s an all-time...

jessethorn — Sun, 29 Jan 2012 00:43:29 -0800

In honor of our last day in Europe, here’s an all-time favorite: Randy Newman’s “A Few Words In Defense of Our Country.”

“We don’t want their love, and respect at this point is pretty much out of the question; but at a time like this, we sure could use a friend.”

That's a wrap!

jessethorn — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 12:15:00 -0800

After two long weeks of traveling and shooting, we’re wrapped on season two of Put This On.

Our special thanks to our producers Andrew Yamato, Gianluca Migliarotti and Kristian Brodie, all our crew and all our amazing subjects. Our most special thanks to the 1,679 of you who paid for our production.

Ben and I are going to enjoy London for a day tomorrow and head back to the States on Monday to start editing. Look for the half dozen episodes of our new season in the coming months, plus some a few bits of bonus content we shot along the way.

Thank you! You rule.