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Four Worthwhile Sales

Four sales worth mentioning: 

• Ralph Lauren is having their “Giving in Style” sale from September 27th until October 8th. 25% off non-Purple Label merchandise with the code RLGIVING12. 
• Allen Edmonds’ Shoe Bank (where they sell factory seconds) is having a 15-30% off sale from now until  October 8th. Select styles, including their Strand, are now available for between $150 and $200. You can order from them by calling their store at (262) 785-6666. Just make sure you take a look at their main website first, so you can figure out what styles you’re interested in, and then ask their Shoe Bank store if it’s available in your size.
• Amazon is also having a sale on Allen Edmonds dress shoes. Save an additional $50 on orders over $200 with code 2012FALL (select styles only). 
• Finally, Rue La La has a bunch of Brooks Brothers merchandise discounted about 40-50% today. Shetland sweaters available for about $60; suits for about $500. 

To get more sales announcements, sign up for our Inside Track. Along with an additional eBay Roundup, I send out a list of good sales each and every week. 

The Charm of Tassel Loafers

I really like tassel loafers. I’m wearing a shell cordovan pair now with brown sharkskin trousers, a dark green v-neck sweater, light blue oxford cloth button-down shirt, navy over-the-calf socks, and a dark reddish-brown alligator belt. With clothes that are a bit too fully cut, tassel loafers can look a little fuddy duddy; with clothes that are too tight, they can look overly hip. Somewhere in the middle, I think, is where they look best.

Tassel loafers came into being in the post-war period of the 1940s, right when tweed jackets, Shetland sweaters, and penny loafers dominated prep schools and Ivy League campuses. As college students graduated, they wanted something as comfortable as their slip-ons, but were a bit dressier and more sophisticated for their new life in the business world. It was around this time that an actor named Paul Lukas came back from Europe with a pair of oxfords. They had little tassels at the end of their laces, which Lukas thought made them look more lively. So he took them to a couple of New York shoemakers to see if they could make something similar, and they in turn took the job to Alden. The company’s president at the time, Arthur Tarlow, came up with tasseled loafers and they were an instant success. That makes Alden’s model the original, and Paul Lukas the first man to wear this style of footwear. You can read more about this wonderful history in this article by Bruce Boyer.

Tassel loafers come in a variety of colors and leathers. The most common is brown calfskin, but the ne plus ultra is the reddish-brown shell cordovan that comes from Chicago’s Horween Tannery. Shell cordovan has the particularly good quality of holding the color burgundy well. In calf, burgundy can sometimes look cheap, but in horsehide leather, it absolutely glows. 

As for where to get them, there are probably a dozens of versions on the market. I’ll only cover a few. As mentioned, Alden’s is the original and its history as the classic makes it hard to beat. They also make a similar model for Brooks Brothers. The main deviation is the piece of leather that’s added to the heel cup. From England, we have Crockett & Jones’ Cavendish and Edward Green’s Belgravia. Crockett & Jones also makes a shell cordovan version for Ralph Lauren called the the Marlow, and it has a slightly more unique shade of shell cordovan brown.

My own pair is Allen Edmonds’ Grayson. It’s quite similar to Alden’s, but it has a higher vamp, which is the part the shoe that covers the top part of your foot. I thought it looked slightly better this way, so I bought a pair in shell cordovan. I couldn’t be happier with the purchase and recommend them highly.

If you’d like more affordable options, consider Loake’s Lincoln and Meermin’s 101381. Both come in around $175, but Meermin has the added advantage of being able to do special orders. If you’d like to get a pair in shell cordovan or suede, or made from a different last or sole, they’d be happy to make you a pair for a small surcharge. I have a pair of their made-to-order shoes and couldn’t be more impressed with their value. To order, read this buyer’s guide and then go to Meermin’s website. My only comment on that guide is that you should ask Meermin for sizing advice; don’t just assume. 

Tassel loafers aren’t anything I’d call “an essential,” but they’re certainly very enjoyable to wear. If you work in an environment that lets you get away with more casual footwear, try wearing a pair of these with a wool sweater and corduroys, or maybe a checkered tweed and flannel wool trousers. Both will carry a great sense of American style that’s both casual and sophisticated. 

Chukkas for Fall

Fall for me is about boots. Brass-buckled tan jodhpurs worn with olive moleskins; shell cordovan balmoral boots, in that perfect tone of reddish brown, worn with grey flannel trousers; and handsewn, chunky moc-toe boots worn with dark blue jeans. There are dozens of styles, but the most versatile and easy-to-wear of them all is the chukka. Brought over from India by the British Raj, these were named “chukkas” after the playing period in polo. They were quite popular in the 1940s and 1950s, and today can still be worn with a wide range of ensembles – anything from chinos to jeans to wool trousers, put together with something as dressy as a sport coat or as casual a four-pocket field jacket. They can even be worn with suits, although it’s advisable to stick with more “casual” varieties, such as ones made from flannel, linen, or tweed, rather than smooth, lightweight worsted wools.

There are number of good options to consider. For those on a budget, I recommend Loake or Meermin. Loake has two models: the Kempton, which is built on the round toe 026 last, and the Pimlico, which is built on the slightly sleeker, soft-square toe Capital. These are also available rebranded as the Harwood at Charles Trywhitt, as well as the Gosforth and Barrow from Herring. Meermin, on the other hand, has two suede models on their Rui last, which is a round toe design you can more closely inspect here. If you happen to not like the Rui, Meermin can also custom build you a chukka with any last, leather, and sole you wish for a small surcharge. Just drop them a note through their website to order. Their quality is just as good, if not considerably better once you go made-to-order, as Loake’s. 

If you’re willing to spend a little bit more money, there’s a wider range of options. Allen Edmonds, for example, has their Malvern on sale for about $250. For a few hundred dollars more, there’s a number of designs at Crockett and Jones, which you can peruse by doing a search on their website for “chukkas.” My favorite from them is probably the Brecon, a country calf leather boot built on a Dainite sole. It’s a very rustic shoe that can be successfully paired with corduroys, moleskins, and jeans. For something sleeker, check out Kent Wang, who has something similar to the Crockett and Jones’ Tetbury for about $350. Additionally, there’s this handsome shell cordovan version from Alden. If you want one, but can’t afford the price, you can have something similar made through Meermin, custom ordered, for about half the cost.

Of course, those just scratch the surface of the most basic models available. There’s also crepe rubber soled chukkas, which are an incredible pleasure to walk on. Like other well made shoes, these can last years and years if properly taken care of and given regular resolings. Simple, basic designs include Clark’s Desert Boots, Church’s Sahara, Loake’s Campden, and A Suitable Wardrobe’s Easy Fitting Chukka. For something lighter and more breathable, try ones that are unlined. Unlined chukkas lack structure around the uppers, so they feel more like slippers. Models here include Allen Edmonds’ Amok and Alden’s 1494. The Amok is noticeably sleeker, but I find more charm in Alden’s wider 1494 version. Crockett and Jones also has unlined models called the Milton and Hartland, as well as one simply named the “Chukka.” All of those are available for view on their website and for purchase through their New York City store.

Whatever you choose, I encourage you to pick up a pair (if you don’t already own some) and try wearing them this fall with jeans and tweeds, corduroys and Shetland sweaters, and wool trousers and waxed cotton coats. In a smooth brown calfskin or russet shade of suede, these can be some of the most versatile shoes you will ever own. 

Andrew Lock Shoes: Quality at $250 a Pop

We got an email this week from Andrew Lock, a forum acquaintance who’s apparently been working behind the scenes to develop a line of men’s footwear. His goal was straightforward: good shoes for $250, retail. Certainly an admirable objective.

Andrew Lock shoes are goodyear welted, made in Spain and England. The Spanish-made shoes are listed as “benchgrade,” and sell for $250. The English-made shoes, called “handgrade,” sell for $450, including this lovely boot. We haven’t handled any of the shoes yet, but I’m ready to give Andrew some credit for targeting a niche that needed targeting: more affordable simple shoes. The $250 price point for the benchgrade line is $85 less than Allen Edmonds, their most direct competition.

Andrew says he’ll send us a pair, so in a few weeks we’ll try to make a more comprehensive evaluation, but in the meantime, you can check out the line at andrewlockshoes.com.

It appears that Allen Edmonds has heard the cries of a million #menswear enthusiasts, and issued a new version of their discontinued double monk strap, the Mora.

The Neumora, now available, for $345.

(Additional sizes at AE’s site, but you’ll have to pay shipping.)

Fourth of July Sales Events

A bunch of retailers are running Fourth of July sales. Note that even if you don’t care for the items I’ve highlighted below, you may want to browse each store’s selections, as many of them have discounts on a wide variety of items. 

• Brooks Brothers: Brooks’ summer clearance event has begun. Up to 50% off select items. I’m particularly a fan of this sand colored jacket as a spring/ summer outerwear piece. 
• Gap: Although I’m generally not that crazy about The Gap, I think their undershirts offer a good value. They’re priced at $15 for two, and you can take an additional 10% off with the code GAP4TH at checkout. 
• Gant: Up to 50% off select items. There are some madras shirts in there you can check out. 
• Jack Threads: Bass bucks and Supergas for about $50 each. 
• Lands End Canvas: A ton of shirts on sale for pretty cheap. Their construction isn’t the most well done, and the cuts are sometimes all over the place, but they remain a good option for people on a tight budget. 
• Levis: Take 20% off orders over $100 and 30% off orders over $150. Use the code SUMMER at checkout
• Allen Edmonds: Clearance sale on select summer items. These chocolate brown unlined suede chukkas seem like a good deal at $125. 
• Ovadia and Sons: Significant discounts on outerwear.
• Far Fetch: A ton of sales going on right now. Just select an item category and mark the brands you’re interested in. 

You can get more sales announcements each week by signing up for the Inside Track. 

Allen Edmonds’ Tent Sale

Allen Edmonds is discounting their factory seconds shoes by 15-50% for the next ten days. The offer is only good at their Brookfield and Port Washington stores in Wisconsin, but both are happy to ship you whatever you need. You can call the Brookfield branch at (262)785-6666 or email them at brookfield@allenedmonds.com. Port Washington’s number is (262) 284-7158. If you don’t know what you’d like, you can ask them to tell you what models are available in your size. Just be sure to be near a computer so that you look up the designs. 

Casual Summer Footwear

Like most men of my generation, I rarely wear more “formal” clothes such as dark wool suits and black oxford shoes. Much of my wardrobe consists of more casual items, though I admit it leans towards the dressier side of things. That means lots of odd trousers and sport coats, casual button-up shirts, and shoes such as derbys, boots, and slip-ons. With the passing of Memorial Day and the unofficial arrival of summer, I thought I’d review some casual footwear options for the new season. Basically things that will work with what I think most men already have in their closet.

Generally speaking, I think men tend to look smarter in a pair of leather shoes than trainers. The one exception is white sneakers during the summer. For some ensembles, such as a pair of navy chinos and a colorful madras shirt, there may be nothing better. My favorites in this category include Superga, Chuck Taylors’ All Stars, and Vans’ Authentics, but there are many others. I covered a bunch of them last year in a post about plimsolls. In addition to those, you can consider the Common Projects and German Army Trainers that Jesse has talked about, as well as Svensson’s Classic Low Whites, Superga’s 1705s, and Superga’s decks. Svensson is a bit more refined looking, like Common Projects, but comes at a lower price point and even less branding. Men of Ilk is offering a 20% off discount code right now (GLCCW49), which puts the Svenssons at $180 for American customers. As for the Supergas, I bought a pair of the 1705s a few months ago and have been really enjoying them. The branding is less obvious and the design is basic enough to pair with most things.

For something slightly dressier, you can consider chukka boots. I know boots are a bit of an odd suggestion for summer footwear, but depending on your regional climate, I think they can work quite well. Alden’s unlined suede chukka, for example, is so soft and buttery that it wears very much like a slipper. The lack of leather lining inside makes the upper more malleable and breathable, much like a canvas shoe. My friend Stephen at The Simply Refined has said everything I could say about them. For something similar, you can consider Church’s Sahara and Allen Edmonds’ Amok. The brown version of the Amok is on clearance right now for $125.

If you prefer a bit more structure in your leather chukkas, you should check out Loake’s Kempton, Sahara, and Camden. Brooks Brothers also has a suede boot that gets discounted to $130 or so at the end of every season, and there’s of course Clark’s desert boots that everyone already knows about. If you have a bit more money to spend, I would also recommend A Suitable Wardrobe’s crepe sole chukka. I really like the shape of the toe box and think the crepe sole/ suede upper combination helps underscore the casualness of the shoes.

Finally, I’ll also suggest you get a pair of loafers this summer. Like with chukkas, these can be worn mostly year round, but feel especially nice for the warmer seasons. There are a good number of styles to consider, but for the purposes of this post, I’ll stick with the classic American penny loafer. Inspired by the Norwegian moccasin, the penny loafer was the sine non-qua for the post-war “Ivy Look,” and still looks quite sharp today. I recommend getting them from American manufacturers such as Alden, Allen Edmonds, Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Rancourt, and Oak Street Bootmakers. Bass also has some, though their quality is much lower these days. Outside of American companies, you may also want to look into Markowski, Herring, and Loake, as well as some of the models that Crockett & Jones offers.

Of course, there are dozens of good causal footwear styles, and some may be better suited for warm weather conditions than the ones above (e.g. espadrilles, white bucks, and spectators). However, for good, versatile basics that can work well for summer and transition into fall, I think you’d do well with white sneakers, suede chukkas, and leather penny loafers. 

Allen Edmonds Shoe Bank Sale

Allen Edmonds’ Shoe Bank is having a sale this Memorial weekend. This is where they normally sell factory seconds, which means slightly damaged pairs that didn’t pass quality control. Most of the time, they’re defects that nobody would ever notice. Many of the times, it’s not even clear what the defect is. 

Factory seconds for the Park Avenues you see above are normally $259 at The Shoe Bank. This weekend they’ve been discounted to $221. You can call them at (262) 785-6666 to see what else they have in your size. It’s best if you know your AE models or at least are at a computer where you can Google them. You can also email them at brookfield@allenedmonds.com and ask them to tell you what’s available in your size. Shipping is free within the United States.