Put This On

Go Easy on the Wax

I recently bought a new pair of Crockett and Jones Belgraves from a seller I found online. I was able to get them at a nice discount, but when they arrived, they had thin white creases in certain parts of the leather. I figured the leather must have been just dry, so I treated it with some conditioner. Even after a few treatments, however, they didn’t go away. In fact, when I worn them around a bit, awful white lines would appear wherever the leather would bend. 

Then it occurred to me - the seller must have caked on a bunch of neutral shoe polish wax. He didn’t know how to properly shine shoes. The result is something like the picture you see above, even though the shoes were new. 

The best way to get rid of heavy wax build-up is to use Lexol leather cleaner. “Mixed” solutions such as Allen Edmonds conditioner and cleaner won’t be enough (though they’re still good for regular maintenance). If the build-up is especially bad, you might even have to run your fingernail over the stitches and around the pinking (the zig zag detailing). That’s what I found myself doing last night for about an hour.

The problem with having so much wax build-up is that it not only creates ugly creases (particularly if you use a neutral wax), but it also prevents the leather from absorbing any conditioner, which means it will eventually dry out. To avoid this, go easy on the wax, and every once in a while, use some Lexol leather cleaner to wipe away any build-up. Remember that a little wax goes a long, long way.

Or, if you prefer, just stick to cream polish. You won’t get as much protection from the elements, or perhaps even as high of a shine, but at least your shoes will never look like the ones above. 

Allen Edmonds Shoe Bank Boot Sale

Allen Edmonds’ Shoe Bank, their national outlet, is offering boots half off through this weekend. The Shoe Bank mainly sells seconds, but they’re usually nice enough to tell you if they see any visible issues. At this discount, they drop all the way to $117-149, a tremendous bargain.

Call them at 262 785 6666, and they can tell you what they’ve got in your size; they’ll gladly ship. It’s best if you know your AE models or at least are at a computer where you can Google them.

Q and Answer: How Should You Protect Your Suede Shoes?

Brett writes to ask: I have a pair of suede plain-toe bluchers coming from Alden.  What do you do, if anything, for protection or treatment?

Some people think suede shoes are too delicate and need babying, but in actuality, if you know how to take care of them, they’re easier to maintain than regular calf. You don’t have to condition, polish, or wax them every couple of weeks, after all. Here are some basic maintenance tips:

• Apply a waterproofing spray to protect them from stains and water. Brush with a suede brush before and after the spray. I use Allen Edmonds’ spray protectors and brushes.
• If you get a stain, use a suede eraser. Again, I use Allen Edmonds’.
• If you get mud on them, let the mud dry overnight and brush it off with a stiff brush (eg a nail brush). If there is some remainder dirt left, wipe it off with a clean, damp cloth or use the suede eraser.
• In most cases, if your shoes get wet, they should be fine. In some cases, however, they can be left with water stains. It may sound counter-intuitive, but in those situations, I recommend you wash your shoes, like this.
• If your stains are more serious, such as those from oil or grease, you may be in trouble. Try brushing it off with a stiff brush and applying the suede eraser. If those don’t work, hand wash them. A last ditch attempt could be to just take them to a cobbler for a professional cleaning. If all those fail, you’ll have to either tell yourself the stain is a “patina” or resign your shoes. 
• If your suede shoes are old, hold them over a pot of boiling water and let the steam hit it. After that, brush them with a suede brush. This should restore the material’s nap and luminescence.
• The above should be done in addition to all the other things you should be doing for your shoes: Insert unvarnished, cedar shoe trees whenever you’re not wearing your shoes; let them have at least a day of rest in between each wearing; and use shoe horns when you can.
• Don’t be afraid to wear them in more inclement weather, either. I personally wouldn’t recommend wearing them at the end of winter, when there is a bunch of half-melted, dirty, slushy snow outside, but almost any other time is fine. I wear mine more or less year round.

In the end, remember: shoes are meant to be worn. There’s a difference between aging well and aging poorly, but your shoes are always going to age. If you invest in quality shoes and do the above, they’ll age well and actually look better than they did when they were brand new.

Great work, Zappos stylist. Great, great work.

(Thanks, Paul)

It’s On eBay

Allen Edmonds Brantley Boots

This model is, sadly, no longer in production.

Buy It Now $150 or Make An Offer

It’s On Sale

Allen-Edmonds Lombard Wingtips in Walnut

One of 27 different models on sale at this price from Zappos.  AEs are also on sale on Endless.com and on AllenEdmonds.com.

$229 from $325 at Zappos.com

It’s On Etsy

Vintage (Circa 1960s?) Allen-Edmonds Brogues

It’s remarkable how much clothing manufacture changed in the late 1960s and early 1970s with the introduction of affordable synthetics and the broad acceptance of low-cost overseas manufacturing.  Not only were craftspeople like tailors and cobblers almost completely eliminated (they’d been hanging on for their lives since the 30s or so), but the quality of mass-manufactured goods took an epic plunge.  Allen-Edmonds are one of the best quality American shoes you can buy, but they were a full step better forty or fifty years ago.  Similarly, legacy brands like Stacy Adams and Florsheim pump out lowest-common-denominator crap today, but if you handled their shoes from the 50s or 60s, you’d think you were holding Aldens (or better).  Clothes are dramatically cheaper and more plentiful these days, but they’re certainly not better.

$85 from Viridian Thumm

Q and Answer: Outlet Malls

Michael writes:  I was wondering if you could post some tips on outlet shopping. Do you think they are worth shopping at? I know that a lot of companies that have outlet stores have specific lines, that they only sell at their outlets, of lower end merchandise that they can sell for less. Any tips for what to avoid or what is worth looking at? Or should they just be avoided all together? Thanks!

Sounds like you’re on the right track, Michael.

Most factory outlets aren’t really factory outlets anymore.  Most sell at least some merchandise that was never in a traditional retail store (and was never intended for one).  Some don’t sell any “real” merchandise at all.

Here’s what I’ve got experience with (and do email if you have inside info on stuff we don’t have out here in Southern California):

• Ralph Lauren has both “Polo” and “Ralph Lauren” outlets.  The Ralph Lauren outlets are pricier, but carry only actual Polo overstocks and Purple Label stuff.  Some, we’ve heard, have recently switched to women’s wear only.  Discounts at these outlets are good but not great.  The Polo outlets are primarily “planned overstock” made for the outlet stores.  The quality is not amazing, though probably not much worse than other Polo items in their categories.  The tailored clothes are mostly Lauren, which is a low-quality line.  There are usually one to three racks, however, which have Polo, RRL and even Purple Label.  Learn to spot these racks, and you can do very, very well.  (Mike notes that the Polo outlets are a great source of cheap bedding.)
• Brooks Brothers outlets are similar.  Three quarters or more of their stock is from the “346” line, which is made specifically for the outlets.  There are often bargains hidden amongst the 346, however.  Some stores have shoes, including the high-end Peal & Co. line.  Some have Black Fleece, the fashion-forward line designed by Thom Browne, and some have Golden Fleece, the fuddy-duddy but very high quality line.  Check the labels.
• Allen Edmonds outlets mostly have discontinued shoes and seconds.  The prices aren’t a huge reduction from retail, with the exception of seconds.
• Gap, Banana Republic and J. Crew sell exclusively clothes made for the outlets.  Not even worth a visit.
• Department store outlets are typically a mix.  Neiman Marcus Last Call has the most very-high-end merchandise, and sometimes it can come at a very deep discount.  Their normal prices, though, are reduced but not a crazy bargain.  Saks Off 5th has a lot more baloney (read: tattoo t-shirts) to sift through, but again, there can sometimes be wheat amongst the chaff.  They run frequent specials and sales, and sometimes you can score.  The Barney’s Outlets have a lot of store-brand stuff, but sometimes there is something great amongst the sportswear.
• Ferragamo outlets sometimes have decent selection, but markdowns aren’t huge.
• Levi’s outlets infrequently stock LVC (Levi’s Vintage Clothing) and other higher-end merchandise.
• Sean tells us that Johnston & Murphy outlets have almost all genuine overstocks in their “clearance” section.  He even says he found a decent salesmen who helped him navigate the grades of J&M, which range from decent to lousy.
• Harry & David’s outlets have Boylan Root Beer, which has a nice, slightly fruity flavor, and is one of my favorite soft drinks.  Not really clothes related, but you get thirsty.