Put This On

Should I Cuff My Trousers?

Cuffs (called turnups by the Brits) are a curious phenomenon. They seem to have emerged from country clothing - an innovation to keep one’s trousers out of the much and mire. They grew popular, though, for entirely different reasons. Cuffs add a bit of visual interest to the end of your trousers, but perhaps most importantly they also add some physical weight, which helps your pants hang attractively. They even help your trousers hold their crease.

To Cuff Or Not To Cuff?

So: should you cuff your pants? It’s really a matter of personal choice. The traditional answer is that cuffs go with pleated trousers, and plain hems with flat fronts. To some extent, that’s true. I think a pleated pant really cries out for cuffs. The American traditionalists, though, have long cuffed their flat-front pants. I say cuff pleated trousers, and decide whether to cuff flat-fronts based on personal taste.

What Should I Cuff? When Should I Cuff?

There’s also the matter of formality and aesthetics. A cuffless pant is generally more modern and sleeker. A cuffed pant is more traditional and a bit fuddy-duddy. (That gets mixed up a bit when the avant-gardists are also pseudo-traditionalists, like Thom Browne.) Thanks in no small part to Mr. Browne, fashion has swung towards cuffs. I personally prefer cuffs - for the weight and visual reasons listed above - so I’m happy with that turn of events. I’d just caution against cuffs on casual pants. They fit on what Derek has called “dress chinos,” but on run-of-the-mill chinos, they look out of place.

What’s Height Got To Do With It?

Traditionally, alterationists have advised taller men to wear cuffs, and shorter ones to avoid them. I’d say that while shorter men might do well to avoid a large break when they’re chosing their trouser length, they should feel fine wearing cuffs. Traditionally, cuffs are worn with at least a small break, but recent fashion has allowed for cuffs worn without break. Our friend MistahWong, pictured above, is 5’7” and wears breakless two inch cuffs as a matter of course. He always looks great.

How Big Should My Cuffs Be?

If you chose cuffs, what size should they be? The boldest fashion-y types are proclaiming to the world their two inch cuffs. I’m fine with that (I like cuffs, after all), but two inches is really a sign around your ankles that says “I AM TRENDY, SEE?” If you’re cool with that, I won’t stop you from wearing two inchers.

Traditionally, the size of the cuff is determined by the size of the man. This is reasonable, I think. I personally wear 1 3/4” cuffs, and I’m a long-legged 6’3”. I think they look strong but not outrageous. 1 1/2” is also a very reasonable choice. I’m not personally a huge fan of cuffs smaller than that, but it’s your choice - some choose 1 1/4” cuffs. Look and see what looks like it fits your body and your sensibilities. After all, the very short (and very sharply dressed) Matthew Fan wears two inchers, and he looks great, but he’s self-assured enough to carry off a statement.

So, Let’s Summarize!

• Cuffs are a personal choice.
• I prefer cuffs on pleated trousers - they help the trouser hang better. On flat fronts, it’s your call.
• Don’t cuff your most casual pants.
• Shorter men should be careful not to wear their pants too long, but shouldn’t worry too much about wearing cuffs.
• There was a time when all cuffed pants had a full break; that’s no longer requisite.
• 2” is huge, 1 3/4” is big, 1 1/2” is moderate, 1 1/4” is small. Wear what looks and feels right.

Photo: Most Exerent

Style for College Students

There’s no kind way to put this: college students are some of the worst dressed people in America. I say that as man who has spent the last eleven years on college campuses – four as an undergraduate, two as a researcher, and five as a graduate student. This has been at three universities, but with many visits to other schools throughout the years.

To be sure, students are in a uniquely hard bind. They’re broke, very busy, and have little time for gainful employment. Not having a lot of time or money doesn’t lend itself well to picking up nice things. Plus, as a graduate student instructor, I’d rather see students spend more time on their studies than worry about what they should wear.

Still, dressing well in college isn’t that hard. Especially when the bar is set so low. So, in an effort to help students smarten up, I’ve come up with some tips.

Focus on Smart, Mid-quality Basics

The downside to being a student is that you’re broke, but the upside is that you can have a complete wardrobe with very few pieces. No need to worry about having separate weekend and weekday wardrobes; it’s just off to class and libraries for you. So, focus on buying mid-quality, versatile basics. Don’t go for anything too nice. Whether you’re getting straight-As or barely passing class, your lifestyle in college will be mostly rough on clothes and probably not very hygienic. Get things like decent jeans that can take a beating, or thicker merino sweaters, not thin cashmere-blends. Build your wardrobe off grays, blues, and browns, so things can easily coordinate without you needing to have to put in too much thought.

Upgrade

The best way to not look like a college slob is to not dress like a college slob. Instead of graphic t-shirts, pick solid colors tees. Better still, try to wear shirts with collars, as they’ll help frame your face. Plaid flannels for fall, colorful madras for summer, and stripes year-round will help make those button-up shirts look less like office-attire. Long sleeve polos can also work, so long as they don’t look too fratty (I like Kent Wang’s). 

Instead of ratty or pre-distressed jeans, pick up a solid pair of dark, raw denim jeans that fit well. Levis is relatively cheap and easy. Maybe add a pair of chinos and corduroys too, so you have other things to wear.

Instead of college-branded sweatshirts, get merino sweaters. Club Monaco’s are pretty good on sale (they also offer a student discount year-round, which you can stack on top of sale prices). Cardigans can also work in theory, but they’re much harder to fit well than a simple crew- or v-neck sweater.

Instead of flip-flops and running shoes, get camp mocs, boat shoes, plimsolls, or desert boots. Clarks desert boots are a particularly good option if you’re on a student budget. You don’t have to put too much care into them besides applying some Obenauf’s LP for the beeswaxed versions or waterproof spray for suede, and the crepe soles will be comfortable for long-walks. Jesse has some other suggestions here as well.

Finally, there’s no alternative to cargo shorts, sweatpants, or basketball shorts. You just have to stop wearing those (unless, you know, you’re exercising or playing basketball).

Don’t Overdress

I know this site is often about sport coats and ties, but unless you’re a member of the Model United Nations or College Republicans, I encourage you to not wear ties as a college student. There are some campuses where this is normal, and you’ll know when you’re at one, but for everywhere else, you’ll just look out of place and over-dressed. For many campuses, sport coats may also make you stick out in a bad way.

If you really want to wear a sport coat, tweeds and corduroys can look a bit more natural on a college campus. For everyone else, I encourage reaching for more causal options. A vintage peacoat can be had for $50-75 through eBay, Vintage Trends, or a local thrift store. You can use this guide to help date your peacoat finds. For something new, check Fidelity.

There are also some go-to brands for decent, cheap(ish) outerwear. LL Bean Signature, Land’s End Canvas, and J Crew can be workable once they have their end-of-the-season sales (when things will be discounted 50-75%). J Crew also has a student discount, but only for in-store purchases. Additionally, Land’s End mainline is probably be less well-suited for a younger person, but this oilcloth jacket might be a good Barbour alternative. It can be had for under $100 if you wait for the right coupon codes. You can read Broke & Bespoke for a review. Lastly, Ben Sherman’s Harringtons can also be had through eBay for about $80.

And the Standard Advice

Add to this the standard advice.

• Learn how clothes should fit. We have a few guides you can read through here. You have more wiggle room as a young, college student, but avoid things that are skin-tight or overly baggy.
• Find a good alterations tailor and bring as much as you can to them. There are very few things a good alterations tailor can’t improve.
• Make a wish list and tightly edit it. Make sure you’re building a wardrobe, and not just a collection of outfits. If something doesn’t mesh well with the other things you plan on buying, strike it off your list.
• Set a budget and shop slowly. Especially at this age, your tastes can change rapidly, and if you buy everything now, you may find yourself regretting it next semester.

(Photo by John Morgan)

Seven Things Better Bought Used

It’s sometimes easier to buy new, but there are some things that are pretty much always better bought used. Here’s our list of seven.

1. Peacoats Every designer in the world has “riffed” on the pea coat, but the original is still the best. The heavy melton wool has protected sailors from the elements on-ship for decades, and it’ll protect you from pretty much anything. Best of all, vintage pea coats are freely available both from local vintage shops and online vendors. I love the ones from the 1940s-1960s, but it’s hard to go wrong. Remember that they’re sized to fit over heavy sweaters, and expect to pay $50-100.
2. Cufflinks  There was a time when men wore suits, and with them, double-cuff shirts. So just about every man had cufflinks. That time has mostly passed.
   The result is a market glut of links. Go on eBay any day of the week and you’ll find literally thousands of pairs, from costume to fine jewelry… 1970s to 1890s. We prefer double-sided links here at PTO, and you’ll find plenty at any estate jeweler or vintage seller. Try Edwardian eight-carat gold, or enamel from the Art Deco era. Or grab yourself a cheap pair of Swank novelty links from the 1960s. Get some shirt studs while you’re at it. They’ll all be much cheaper on the second-hand market than new.
3. Formal Wear  Unlike most men’s styles, formal wear has remained largely static since it was codified at the beginning of the 20th century. That means that if you can find a conservatively-styled tuxedo from almost any era, it will be right at home today. The bonus: it’ll probably be better-made than all but the finest new equivalents. With a bit of diligence, you can find a great tuxedo for a hundred dollars or less.
4. Knock-Around Ties  Once you have a basic wardrobe of ties - a few solids, a few basics - you’ll find yourself wishing for novelty. Unless you’re shopping the highest end of the market, you’ll find plenty of functional ties at your local consignment or thrift stores for pennies on the dollar. Get a sense of the difference between a fine tie and a poor one, and don’t settle for less than decent… but once you’ve done that, go wild. There’s no shame in a necktie wardrobe filled out at $10 each, rather than $100.
5. Watches A fine watch is a status symbol these days, when most men just wear a thirty-dollar quartz model on their wrist. Luckily, there’s a vintage option for almost any budget. Handsome mechanical watches from lesser-known brands are easily available for $50 or so second-hand. You can buy a beautiful Longines or Hamilton for a hundred or two. Kick it up to five hundred and there’s a pile of gorgeous Omegas within your grasp. And of course if you bump it into the thousands, there are many more choices, almost all for less than new.
   Try paging through the buy-and-sell forums of watch enthusiast communities like WatchUSeek and TimeZone, or visit a reputable jeweler in your town. Heck - if you’re buying something cheap, just take a flier on eBay. No matter what, you’ll get a more distinctive piece at a better price.
6. Cashmere Sweaters  For a variety of reasons, cashmere’s gone downhill in the last twenty years or so. The good stuff has a smoother, tighter, denser finish… and you’ll only find it second-hand. The good news is that second-hand cashmere knits rarely go for more than $50-100 each. If it’s in good shape (be diligent), it can literally last a lifetime.
7. Hats Men’s hats have declined precipitously not just in popularity, but also in quality. Low-end hats from the middle of the last century are as good as the high-end hats you’ll buy in a department store today. There are a few fine makers left, mostly making custom hats, but even once-fine brands like Borsalino and Stetson now make mediocre, expensive products. Vintage hats, though, are inexpensive, freely available (another supply/demand thing) and often of very fine quality. Great hats effortlessly hold their shape without being stiff, and feel fine to the hand. Expect to pay between $50 and $200 for something really good.

(Thanks to PTO twitter followers @D_Lippy, @frivmo, @voxsartoria, @platypusjones, @prairie_oysters, @SkySwartout, @HoffM, @TheMikeSwartz, @TheS_P500 and more for your ideas!)

Photos: Peacoat by Resheie54 , Cufflinks Simon James, Tux Stephen Depolo, Watch Guy Sie, Ties Brian Johnson, Cashmere Stolte-Sawa Hat David D

Affordable Basics

Most people want to dress well, but they don’t care to spend a small fortune or an inordinate amount of time searching for deals. That means no fancy boutiques or thrift stores, just readily available things that can be quickly purchased for not too much money.

Obviously, if you want the best things, you have to spend either time or money. If you just want to look decent without too much fuss, however, here are my recommendations for where you can get affordable basics.

• Suits and sport coats: Land’s End Tailored Fits are workable. If you can swing it, Suit Supply is very good for the price. You can read my review of them here. 
• Shirts: TM Lewin sells decent dress shirts for $32 in their clearance section or $160 for four in non-clearance. Their “slim fit” fits reasonably well (neither too blousy nor skin tight), and their collar is big enough to hold a necktie well. For oxford cloth button downs, Lands End Canvas’ Heritage line is passable, though the collars are short and skimpy. If you can afford to, get Brooks Brothers instead. They’re better made and designed. Both Land’s End and Brooks will discount things by about 40% at the end of each season.
• Trousers: I’ve yet to come across readily available, highly-recommendable, affordable, high-quality trousers. The best I can offer in this area are Land’s End Tailored Fit trousers, but those will need some tailoring, depending on your build. Brooks Brothers Milano trousers are also workable once they go on sale. 
• Jeans: Decent pairs can be bought at Levis, Gap (selvedge denim line only), and Uniqlo (“Made in Japan” line is especially nice). All three are holding sales right now. Note that if you want to shop at Uniqlo, you either have to visit their stores in NYC or go through Suddenlee (which you can learn how to do here). 
• Rain coats: If you’re on a budget, rain coats are perhaps best bought second hand, but if you don’t want to deal with the hassle, TM Lewin’s mac is fairly nice. 
• Shoes: Loake’s 1880 line, Meermin, Charles Tyrwhitt, Markowski, Ed Et Al, Florsheim’s Goodyear welted line, and Allen Edmonds are all worth checking out. Slightly imperfect “factory seconds” from Allen Edmonds can be had for a discount at their Shoe Bank store. You can see what models they have in your size by calling them at (262) 785-6666. Nordstrom also discounts Allen Edmonds to $200 or so during their semi-annual sale. 
• Ties: Chipp2 sells very respectable grenadine ties for $47.50. You can get whatever else you need at Land’s End. They hold sales fairly often.
• Socks: Gold Toes can be had at Costco or Belt Outlet for about $6 a pair. 
• Cufflinks: Get these monkey’s fists cufflinks if you don’t need something more formal. Get something from Kent Wang if you do.
• Pocket squares: If you can only buy one, pick up a white linen. Kent Wang sells one for $20, Howard Yount for $25, and Sam Hober for $30. 
• Belts: You can get a decent belt from Narrangasettet Leather or Austin Jeffers for between $40 and $50.
• Wallets: I prefer the slim profile of a card case over a thick bi-fold. Chester Mox makes some nice ones starting at $39 and they’re offering free monogramming right now as part of a Father’s Day promotion. Saddleback also has a very simple and affordable option at $15. 
• Watches: Timex on a NATO strap. The watch itself is $25-35 and you can pick up a strap for about $10 on eBay. Or, if you prefer an automatic, try a Seiko - the Seiko 5 can typically be had for about $60, and several other models are under $100.

Finally, don’t forget to set aside a portion of your budget to have things tailored. Things such as suits, sport coats, shirts, and trousers rarely fit perfectly off-the-rack, but if you bring them to a good alterations tailor, you can make them look twice as good and three times as expensive. 

(Photo from Life)

Q & Answer: Fused vs. Canvassed Jacketing (And Is Fusing Glue?)

Wes writes: I was checking out a Joseph Abboud blazer at Syd Jerome here in Chicago. I inquired about the construction and dude mentioned that it was fused. I said “whoa whoa whoa - Jesse Thorn told me that fused was bad and that canvassed was good - this is supposed to be a super high-end menswear store so why are you pitching me this fused scenario?” (I’m paraphrasing, of course) - dude replied that the jacket was “fused, not glued.”

Is there a real distinction fused and glued or is this just sales mumbo jumbo?

Inside of every jacket is a layer of canvassing. This is the full-bodied fabric that gives the coat its shape, traditionally made from horsehair. Coats are three-dimensional garments - they don’t just drape over the body, they have a form of their own, which is intended to make you look better. Without the canvassing inside, flattering the body is exceptionally difficult.

In most garments you buy at the department store, this layer of fabric is attached to the coat’s outer layer of fabric by fusing - fabric glue. This fabric glue is usually impregnated into the canvassing, and activated with heat, sort of like an iron-on patch. Because the glue and fabric are essentially one, synecdoche leads the whole strengthening layer to be reffered to as the “fusing.”

In higher-end garments, the canvassing is “floating.” It’s attached (often by hand, sometimes by machine or a combination of both) to the outer layer of the garment with strategic stitches. This allows the outer layer of fabric to drape more smoothly over the canvassing, and move more easily. It also gives the tailor or garment-maker more precise control over the shape of the garment.

In some cases, portions of the garment are fused (for example the bottom half of a jacket’s front) to save money, while more important bits (like the chest and lapels) are “canvassed.” This is usually called half-canvassing. Brands like Brooks Brothers and Polo use this technique as a compromise between the expense of a fully-canvassed garment and the drawbacks of a fully-fused one.

There was a time when fusing technology was very poor, and it would often pucker and bubble with wear, especially after dry cleaning. That’s less common these days, as industrial adhesives have improved significantly. There are fused garments that can be quite good in quality, though they’re unlikely to match or exceed their canvassed counterparts. These days, more likely than puckering for a lower-quality fused garment is a coat that doesn’t have much shape or drape, or loses its shape with wear and cleaning.

We visited Len Logsdail, a custom tailor in New York, to talk about jacket construction for episode two of season two, which will be out in a couple of weeks. (In fact, those are his hands in the screencap above). He said if you have the dough, canvassing is the way to go - it’s more durable, and gives a garment more shape. He also said that if you haven’t got the dough, go with your gut. If a fused jacket flatters you, and the price is reasonable, that’s the one to choose. Either way, the salesman’s probably selling you a line.

(And in response to your question: yes, fusing is definitely a kind of glue.)

How a Suit Jacket or Sport Coat Should Fit

A couple of weeks ago, I said that there are different schools of thought on how a jacket should fit, but trousers should only fit one way. Upon reflection, I now realize that was a bit misleading. There’s a difference between style and fit. Generally speaking, style is about silhouette, whereas fit is about whether something sit on you correctly. Simon Crompton has a good article about this difference. 

There are different silhouettes for jackets, but the rules we have for how they should fit are similar to those we have for trousers. There shouldn’t be any pulls or puckers along the front or back, the sleeves should be free of any ripples when the arms are naturally hanging down, and the jacket should have clean lines all around. These principles should be true regardless of the jacket’s style (e.g. clean, draped, padded, natural, skinny, full). 

Unlike trousers, however, suit jackets and sport coats are much harder to fit well. Their construction is more complicated, so there are more things that can go wrong. Above is a set of photographs I’ve stolen from Macaroni Tomato and slightly modified. Each photo illustrates a common defect. Click on each of the photographs, and you’ll see that they’re lettered.

• Fig. A. Sleevehead and Collar: The most difficult areas to fit well are perhaps the shoulders and collar. A properly fitting jacket shouldn’t have any indentations in the sleeveheads and it should stay glued to your neck at all times. 
• Fig. B. Strained Buttoning Point: Here tightness at the buttoning point can result in a jacket pulling around the waist, effectively forming an “X.” To be sure, this is sometimes purposefully done in the name of fashion, but more often than not, it’s a sign that a jacket is too tight. (Note that the jacket pictured here doesn’t have problems in this area). 
• Fig C. Messy Back: Likewise, the back can have unsightly folds or pulling along the waist, around the shoulder blades, and underneath the collar. A well fitting jacket should have none of these issues, but rather fit cleanly.
• Fig. D. Sleeve Pitch: If the sleeve isn’t attached to the jacket at a degree that harmonizes with the wearer’s natural stance, you may see furrows along the sleeve. You can see an example of this here. 
• Fig. E. Flared Vents: A properly fitting jacket should always have closed vents, like the ones in this picture. Make sure yours don’t flare out or gape. 
• Fig. F. Balance: The term “balance” can refer to a few things on a jacket, but in this case, we’re talking about the relationship between the front and back of the jacket, as well as left and right sides. There are two schools of thought on how the front and back should balance. Most tailors believe that the front should be slightly longer than the back, but a few think they should evenly align. Here, the jacket’s front is even with the back. Another aspect of balance concerns the left and right sides. Here there is less controversy; these two parts should always be dead even with each other along the hem. If you wish to read more about this issue, check out this article by Michael Anton.

Like we saw for trousers, there can be a number of causes for these defects. Depending on the cause and how your jacket is constructed, an alterationist tailor may or may not be able to fix the problems for you (at least within a reasonable cost). The easiest to fix are Figures B and C. Indeed, those are rather common to clean up, so unless you see severe problems in those areas, you needn’t worry about them. The rest you should probably make sure fits right off the peg. 

To read more about fit, you can check out my posts on trousers and silhouettes, as well as Jesse’s posts on jackets, collar gaps, an unfortunate Pitti Uomo attendee, and Conan O’Brien. This simple guide by Esquire and Ethan Desu’s comments are also worth reviewing. 

How Pants Should Fit

It’s much easier to get trousers to fit well than jackets. There’s also less wiggle room for interpretation. While there are different schools of thought on how a jacket should fit, trousers should only fit one way. There shouldn’t be any puckering or pulling along the seat, waist, fronts, or back, and there shouldn’t be any ripples along the legs. Instead, there should be a completely uninterrupted line going from the top to the bottom, both along the front and back of the trousers. If there is a break, the maximum number is one, and if there are pleats, they should remain closed at all times. Regardless of their style (slim, tapered, straight legged, full, etc), these points should remain true for any classic pair of men’s trousers. 

Though it’s easier to find well fitting pants, that doesn’t mean it’s always accomplished. Most men’s trousers suffer from any number of problems. Above is a color photograph that shows how a pair of well fitting pants should look. Below that are a number of black and white diagrams posted by Tutee on StyleForum, each of which demonstrate some common defects. If you click on the diagrams, they’ll expand and you’ll see that they’re lettered.

• Fig A. Roping Along Seat Seam: Here there’s tightness in the seat seam, which is drawn tautly up the center. Vertical folds thus appear. 
• Fig B. Diagonal Creases from Fork to Side Seam: This is more often than not something you see on corpulent or semi-corpulent figures. The defect unfortunately emphasizes the contour of the wearer’s stomach, which is of course the last thing a stout gentleman would want.
• Fig C. Vertical Folds at the Fork: The fork is the area of your body that joins your legs to the trunk. Here, folds of excessive material are seen around the fork, and they run towards the inside of the leg. 
• Fig D. Excess Material in the Lap: This was made into a pretty funny scene on Curb Your Enthusiasm. Obviously, there will always be a certain amount of excess material in the lap when the wearer is seated. This is what allows your pants to fit well when you’re standing up. However, if there is too much material, it should be considered a defect (note: I’ve found zippered flys to be worse offenders than buttons in these cases). 
• Fig E. “Horseshoe” Folds: Perhaps the most common defect is when excessive material folds near the fork, around the seat of the pants. There may also be diagonal drags running down the inside of the leg. 
• Fig. F. Fullness Under the Seat: Similar to Figure E, there can also be excessive material under the ball of the seat. This material can sag away from the wearer.
• Fig. G. Drags from Fork to Knee: Here, when the wearer is seated, creases extend from the knees back towards the fork (again, where the leg joins the trunk of your body). There is also a slight pull from the knee bone to the back of the leg. 
• Fig H. Horizontal Creases at the Fork: This can occur either in the front or the back. Tutee notes that this is also common in old trousers, especially ones that haven’t been pressed or re-shaped occasionally. 

A number of things that can cause these defects. The seat angle might be too low or high; there could be insufficient or too much room in the trunk or fork; the leg seams can be too open or closed; or the legs can be placed incorrectly from the fork. 

There are remedies, but many of them involve details that are only of interest to tailors and those who commission bespoke clothing. For most people, whether some of these are fixable through an alterations tailor depends on what exactly is causing the problem. For example, if there is fullness in the seat, there could be just excess material. In this case, if it’s not too much material, a tailor can most likely take it in. If it’s a result of an incorrect seat-angle, however, this will be much more difficult. 

So what can you take away?

• Well first, you should use the color photograph above as a model for how trousers should fit. Perhaps you like them skinnier or fuller, or you like to wear belts instead of braces. Either way, you can see here what it means to have “clean lines.” 
• Second, keep the diagrams in mind so you know what to look for when trying on pants. As with almost all off-the-rack clothing, it’s nearly impossible to get something to fit 100% perfectly, so expect that there will be issues. You just want to minimize the defects. 
• Third, if a pair of trousers doesn’t fit, your best bet is to try on either the size above or below, and see if the problems aren’t remedied. Notice here that almost all the problems occur between the waist and the thigh. Buy pants that fit you best in these areas. Most of the time, you’ll be able to alter the waistband and calves. If the trousers still don’t fit after you change sizes, that specific cut simply doesn’t fit you, so move on. 

And that’s how pants should fit. 

* This post owes itself to Tutee, who has been a remarkable contributor on every major classic mens’ style community.