Ed Morel and Bruce Boyer, at the Panta trunk show Jesse talked about.
Both gentlemen have especially nice shirt collars on.
Ed Morel and Bruce Boyer, at the Panta trunk show Jesse talked about.
Both gentlemen have especially nice shirt collars on.
If you’re in New York City, you won’t want to miss tomorrow’s Panta trunk show. Founder Ed Morel will be on hand with a selection of pants, ties and (new) suits and sportcoats. It’s at CEGO Custom Shirtmaker, and Carl (who you may remember from our Body episode) will be offering some CEGO stuff - pajama bottoms, orphaned shirts, that kind of thing - along with the Panta line.
We’ve reviewed Panta’s beautiful ties, which are about a hundred bucks, but they’ll also be offering a full range of trousers for about $300, sportcoats for $850-950 and suits for about $1200. I’m really impressed by what Morel has been up to, and you should stop by and say “hi” to Ed and Carl even if you can’t scrape up the scratch to buy anything.
Find the sale Friday, March 23rd at the CEGO Custom Shirtmakers shop, 246 Fifth Avenue (corner of 28th), Second Floor, from 11:00-6:00pm.
Put This On Episode 6: Body
Jesse Thorn visits Carl Goldberg, owner of CEGO Custom Shirtmaker in New York City, to learn the difference between a custom shirt and an off-the-rack shirt. Then it’s off to Alan Flusser Custom in New York for a visit with the proprietor, a menswear legend. Flusser offers some tips on dressing for your body with the help of three associates of Put This On. Finally, a visit with Ryu Kwangeol at Pro Tailor in Los Angeles to answer a viewer’s question about altering off-the-rack dress shirts.
Previously: Put This On: A Conversation with Alan Flusser
Our favorite custom shirt shop, CEGO, has teamed up with one of our favorite eBay sellers for a very unique sample sale in Manhattan. Aaron obtained the stock of Alan Flusser’s custom shop when it changed management, and is offering a sale of sample goods and fabrics from the store. The goods will pretty much run the gamut, and Aaron assures me there’s lots of good stuff. Of special note to people who wear the sample jacket size of the show, 41L. (Like me, dammit, all the way out here in LA.) You can check out photos here.
Carl from CEGO tells me they’ll be offering a special $100 labor rate if you buy shirting fabric from Aaron, and some of CEGOs fabrics will be on sale as well.
WHEN: Friday April 29 12-7, Saturday April 30 10-4
WHERE 246 Fifth Avenue (at 28th St), Suite 511, New York, NY
The online made-to-measure shirt tailor Modern Tailor is offering a $19.95 introductory offer for shirts in their simplest blue oxford fabric. I’ve been looking for a couple of plain blue button-down oxfords, and for $24.95 each I bought three. The extra $5 was because I opted for thick mother of pearl buttons. Shipping added $20 to the total.
My measurements were based upon a made-to-measure oxford by my shirt maker, CEGO in New York (who I recommend wholeheartedly, by the way). If you don’t have a great-fitting shirt to base your measurements upon, I would be careful ordering more than one shirt.
I’ve been a bit skeptical of online made-to-measure, frankly, but I get many emails from folks who can’t find a shirt that fits them because of an unusual body type, and not everyone can afford $125-200 per shirt for a traditional custom shirt. For those people, operations like Modern Tailor and Jantzen can be a good option, though fabric can’t be inspected in person and one doesn’t get consultation from an expert.
We’ll see how these turn out. I’m already worrying about whether they’ll account for laundry shrinkage. Still, $25 is less than Lands’ End, and nothing ventured, nothing gained. Looking forward to the shirts’ arrival.
Put This On Episode 4: Clothing Credits
At Larchmont Barbershop
Jacket - A. Di Nella & Son of Philadelphia (Vintage)
Shirt - Luciano Barbera
Tie - Courtesy of Berg & Berg
Pants - Brunello Cucinelli
Pocket Square - Etro
The Wet Shave
Pajamas - Brooks Brothers
Robe - Holliday & Brown for Prada
In the Closet
Blazer - Chester Barrie
Shirt - CEGO Custom Shirtmakers
Pants - Brunello Cucinelli
Shoes - Vintage Florsheim
Tie - Vintage Bullock & Jones
Pocket Square - Courtesy of Kent Wang
Q and Answer: Why are there two buttons on my cuff?
Alejandro writes: What’s the deal with the extra button on shirt cuffs? I’d always
assumed that it was so people with thicker/skinner wrists could have a
better fit at the cuff of the sleeve, but does that mean you should
cut out the extra button? I’ve always hesitated to do so because
sometimes it’s nice to have it on the wider button on the left cuff
when I wear a watch (I have skinny wrists).
Carl Goldberg, who runs CEGO Custom Shirts in New York, is a friend of ours (and my shirtmaker). He’s always complaining about how big the cuffs are on ready-to-wear shirts. He says your cuff should be just wide enough to slide over your wrist joint and fit over your wristwatch.
You’ve pretty much figured out the reasons for those buttons. Some people prefer a narrower cuff, some a larger one. Some people wear big giant stupid watches, some people wear normal, non-ridiculous watches. Some people have big wrists, some little ones. The buttons are your choice.
Our recommendation: if the smaller-size-cuff button fits, then go with that one.
One of the stops on our whirlwind tour of New York last week was my shirtmaker, Carl Goldberg of CEGO Custom Shirts in the Flatiron district. Carl gave us a quick guide to shirt fit for an upcoming episode, and was exceptionally charming and gracious, as per usual.
Carl sent us word that he’s planning his annual sample sale on Thursday and Friday in New York. Plenty of shirts, pocket squares and boxer shorts that didn’t quite fit or were part of an overage for very cheap prices. If you’re in New York, stop by. The sale isn’t at CEGO, but it’s right nearby:
Flatiron Workshop
225 West 35th St 10th floor between 7-8th ave
Thursday 11-7
Friday 11-5
cash and check with ID.
Episode 3: Clothing Credits
Intro:
Suit - J. Crew
Shirt - Thom Browne
Tie - Carrol & Co. (Vintage)
Square - Vintage (Courtesy: Grand-Uncle Philbert)
Shoes - Nordstrom
On Set
Suit - J. Crew
Shirt - CEGO Custom Shirtmakers
Tie - Courtesy of Berg & Berg
Shoes - Gieves & Hawkes
Square - Holland & Holland
Nerd Boyfriend Picks
Jacket - J. Crew
Shirt - Uniqlo
Pants - Hentsch Man
Shoes - American Apparel
On Roxana
Shirt - Marc Jacobs
Skirt - Marc Jacobs
Rudiments
Tie - Turnbull & Asser
Q and A
Blazer - hickey
Shirt - Lands’ End
Pants - Incotex
Tie - Benjamin Bixby
Shoes - Sebago (Vintage)
Square - Grand-Uncle Philbert