It’s On Ebay
Cashmere scarf by Columbo
Eight Days of Style
Reader Lucy wrote to us to ask that we suggest eight super-basic, affordable Hanukkah gifts for her boyfriend “to replace his stained light-wash jeans and Nine Inch Nails t-shirts.” We’ll offer one choice for each day the oil burned.
Finally, remember how much of his hot, hot heat he’ll lose through his neck, and get him a good basic scarf. If he isn’t the losing-stuff type, then go with cashmere. You can always steal it from him, right?
Eight Days of Style
Reader Lucy wrote to us to ask that we suggest eight super-basic, affordable Hanukkah gifts for her boyfriend “to replace his stained light-wash jeans and Nine Inch Nails t-shirts.” We’ll offer one choice for each day the oil burned.
This one’s a splurge, but isn’t he worth it? Get him a nice cashmere sweater. A v-neck in a basic color (oatmeal, navy, gray, burgundy) that suits his complexion. He can wear it all the time. Don’t let him dry clean it - clean it once a year or so in the sink. Find one on sale at the mall, or for better quality (all cashmere is certainly not the same) get a used one made in Scotland or England on Ebay. Even a Ballantyne won’t cost you more than about $40 - and good cashmere just gets softer.
The Economist has an excellent summary of what to look for when you’re buying cashmere. In the past 15 years, cashmere has become a mass-market product. Previously, only the best fibers were taken from goats, and those fibers were milled and woven by artisans in places like Scotland and Italy. Today, standards can be much lower, and garments are often milled, knit and finished in China. In the past, cashmere was made from only the longest, finest fibers from the goat’s underside. Today, there are no such standards, at least for mass-market product.
Here’s how the Economist says you should differentiate between the good stuff (which lasts a lifetime) and the cheap stuff (which can pill in a matter of weeks):
“Look for tension in the knitting: stretch a section and it should ping back into shape. Hold it up to the light and you shouldn’t see much sky: paradoxically, the best cashmere, though made from the finest hair, has a density to it. Examine its surface: fluffiness suggests the yarn was spun from shorter, weaker fibres and will pill. Be sceptical about softness, too. Over-milling can make a garment too soft and silky, and therefore prone to bobbling and losing its shape. More expensive cashmere may be harder to handle in the shop, but will ease up with wear and hand-washing. The best cashmere actually improves with age - so long as the moths don’t get to it.”
The whole article has been transcribed by a thoughtful StyleForum member here.
As for myself - when I’m buying cashmere, I focus on older sweaters (think 1980s and earlier) made in England and Scotland. They can often be had on Ebay for $30-60, and the density and softness of the wool is unparalleled.
It’s On Sale
I haven’t handled Martin + Osa cashmere, but for $59 in 19 colors, it’s a heckuva deal. Gray, navy and burgundy cashmere v-necks are a wardrobe staple. Not to mention a foolproof holiday gift.
Q & A
Brett asks:
I like a good scarf. However, I have no idea how to wear one in a way that’s comfortable, stylish and not completely weird looking. Also, don’t really know what kind to buy. Do you have any advice for me?
Have you ever seen one of those desert rabbits with the giant ears? They use their ears to get rid of heat. That’s what your neck is like without a scarf.
What scarf should you buy? That’s entirely up to you. Wool will be warmest, silk loveliest, blends can be a charming in-between. For real cold, a traditional Pendleton scarf is inexpensive and easy to find second hand - an Ebay search turns up dozens in a variety of patterns. You can also try searching for “Made in England” or “Made in Scotland.” Both are known for their milling, and Scotland particularly is the home of the world’s best woolens. If you’re not the scarf-losing type, consider investing in cashmere or even mohair. Good quality can still be found for less than a hundred bucks. If you’re comfortable paying retail, we’ve loved everything we’ve purchased from Howard Yount, and they have some very lovely scarves this fall.
As far as tying it around your neck, it depends on length and style, but there are three main choices. The first is a simple knot - the kind you use to start your shoelaces. The second is, length permitting, folding it in half, draping it around your neck and passing the ends through the loop. The third is to tie it like a four in hand necktie, without the very last step - around, around, behind and over. That’s useful for shorter scarves. Above all, you want your scarf to keep you warm and not be too fussy. Leave that to the ladies.
Brunello Cucinelli has built his cashmere empire in a village castle in Italy. The clothes are spectacular if you have a taste for soft finishes and soft tailoring, but even at Loehmann’s prices they’re spectacularly expensive. According to the BBC, that’s in part to fund schools, churches and a theater in the town the factory occupies.