Our former contributor Kiyoshi shows you how a simple casual style is done. You can replace the shirt with a t-shirt if you like, or the sneakers with boots. You can throw a flannel baseball cap up top. You can vary this a number of ways, but it’s a wonderful template, and you will always look suitably excellent.
thesilentist:

Warm winter weekends — Brown naked cowhide leather bomber, blue OCBD, raw denim, tennis shoes and aviators. 

Our former contributor Kiyoshi shows you how a simple casual style is done. You can replace the shirt with a t-shirt if you like, or the sneakers with boots. You can throw a flannel baseball cap up top. You can vary this a number of ways, but it’s a wonderful template, and you will always look suitably excellent.

thesilentist:

Warm winter weekends — Brown naked cowhide leather bomber, blue OCBD, raw denim, tennis shoes and aviators. 

Here’s our first Put This On ballcap spotted in the wild. As you can see, this model has a shallower, early-20th-century fit and a soft crown. Looking great, Ben! 
The caps are starting to run low and won’t be restocked, so if you want one, there’s more information and an ordering link here.

Here’s our first Put This On ballcap spotted in the wild. As you can see, this model has a shallower, early-20th-century fit and a soft crown. Looking great, Ben!

The caps are starting to run low and won’t be restocked, so if you want one, there’s more information and an ordering link here.

Toshiro Mifune’s Relaxed Style

My favorite genre of film is older Japanese samurai movies. And you can’t really be a fan without watching the catalogue of director Akira Kurosawa. An appreciation of Kurosawa’s directing will eventually lead you to one of his most-cast actors, Toshiro Mifune. 

It might be cliche to use the term “explosive” when it comes to acting, but it fits Mifune quite well. On screen he can go from calm to violently angry and make it appear quite natural. His stare has a rare intensity. Kurosawa once said of Mifune, “I found that I could not control Mifune. When I saw this, I let him do as he wanted.”

While his on-screen manner is better known, I recently stumbled across a few candid photos of Mifune, taken at a time when he’s not working on a movie set. Instead of the brooding man in a samurai robe, he actually looks more relaxed and calm. 

And his clothing reflects this demeanor as well. While there are a few publicity events where he wears a suit and tie, I found his casual attire more interesting. 

Mifune often wore a white polo shirt — short or long-sleeved — with cuffed trousers that aren’t too baggy or too skinny. Sometimes, he will layer a dark (presumably navy, charcoal or black) v-neck sweater over his polo.

It’s a simple look that he wears while walking to the set of a film, playing cards or riding in a gondola in Venice. I really enjoyed the relaxed nature and it changed the way I saw him in comparison to the intense characters he plays on film. Looking at these photos, I’m convinced it’s a casual uniform done quite well.

-Kiyoshi

Do I want one of these new Ebbets Field Flannels satin warmup jackets a little too much?
Yeah.
Let’s call it a hangover from my burning childhood desire for one of these.

Do I want one of these new Ebbets Field Flannels satin warmup jackets a little too much?

Yeah.

Let’s call it a hangover from my burning childhood desire for one of these.

Boys Becoming Men, Men Becoming Wolves, Pants Becoming Shorts
If you’re having a hard time finding just the right shorts for this summer’s hottest days, remember: shorts are generally just pants with shorter legs. You can transform pants into shorts pretty simply, for about ten bucks.
First, pick the pants. You can use pants that aren’t the right length or have a stain below the knee for maximum efficiency, or you can just pick something that fits right around the waist and thigh but isn’t available in shorts form.
Then, cut them off (regular scissors are fine) two inches or so below thelowest point you think you might want them “shortsified.” At the bottom of your knee should work.
With pins (safety or straight), pin them to the inseam length you like by folding the excess fabric under. We made the first cut and use pins so that it’s easy to play around and see what looks best.
Once you’ve got them pinned, take them to your tailor or alterationist, and ask him to hem them at that point. A plain hem should cost you about ten or twelve bucks. If you prefer a cuff - which is a trendy on shorts that are a bit less casual - that’ll cost a bit more, and you should make sure to have a couple extra inches of fabric. For a cuff, you’ll need a little more than double the length of the cuff (like 5” for a 2” cuff.)
Suddenly, as if by magic, your pants have become shorts.
(Illustration via StyleGirlfriend - who advocates shorter shorts if you’ve got the legs.)

Boys Becoming Men, Men Becoming Wolves, Pants Becoming Shorts

If you’re having a hard time finding just the right shorts for this summer’s hottest days, remember: shorts are generally just pants with shorter legs. You can transform pants into shorts pretty simply, for about ten bucks.

  1. First, pick the pants. You can use pants that aren’t the right length or have a stain below the knee for maximum efficiency, or you can just pick something that fits right around the waist and thigh but isn’t available in shorts form.
  2. Then, cut them off (regular scissors are fine) two inches or so below thelowest point you think you might want them “shortsified.” At the bottom of your knee should work.
  3. With pins (safety or straight), pin them to the inseam length you like by folding the excess fabric under. We made the first cut and use pins so that it’s easy to play around and see what looks best.
  4. Once you’ve got them pinned, take them to your tailor or alterationist, and ask him to hem them at that point. A plain hem should cost you about ten or twelve bucks. If you prefer a cuff - which is a trendy on shorts that are a bit less casual - that’ll cost a bit more, and you should make sure to have a couple extra inches of fabric. For a cuff, you’ll need a little more than double the length of the cuff (like 5” for a 2” cuff.)

Suddenly, as if by magic, your pants have become shorts.

(Illustration via StyleGirlfriend - who advocates shorter shorts if you’ve got the legs.)

Tailored, But Casual

I think most men want to look well-tailored, but not overly dressed-up. One solution is to wear casual, unstructured sport coats over equally casual button-up shirts. Perhaps shirts with crisscrossing plaids, such as madras, or ones made from “rougher” weaves, such as oxfords or chambrays. The bigger and bolder the pattern, or rougher the weave, the more casual the shirt is considered. 

In some parts of the States, however, even that would look too dressy. Which is why I assume some men wear sport coats over t-shirts. The problem with this, besides the fact that you’ll look like you’re stepping off an MTV set, is that the chasm between the formality of the sport coat and casualness of a t-shirt is too big. There’s also no collar to frame your face or long sleeves to give the requisite show of some shirt cuff. 

The best alternative, then, is the long-sleeved polo shirt. The long sleeves will ensure that no skinny wrists will ever be exposed, and the collar will give you the same effect as a dress shirt. The only difference is that nobody will mistake you for having just come from the office. 

My favorite version on the market is by Kent Wang. His long sleeve polos are slim enough that they appear to be more than sportswear, and the reinforced collarband means that the collar will stand up on its own and not disappear underneath the jacket’s lapels. He has them made from different fabric weights. I prefer the heavier, denser weaves, but the others are just as wearable. For hot days, they may be even preferred since they’ll breathe more easily. Other good sources include Drake’sSunspel, and Brooks Brothers. Brooks doesn’t seem to have anything good this season, but last year they had a decent cream-colored model that went on sale. 

You can wear this combination with casual wool trousers, perhaps those made from open-weave tropical wools, or cotton chinos. Footwear options should be equally casual. Derbies and slip-ons should be preferred over oxfords. When these are all put together you’ll achieve that perfect balance that many men look for today - tailored, but casual. 

(Photos above taken from Drake’s Diary)

Five Casual Trousers for Fall

Though I love wearing my 3sixteens, I think it’s odd how many men wear only jeans, and nothing else. Granted, jeans are universally accepted, easy to wear, and very durable, but only wearing jeans seems very limiting. Expand your horizons this fall and consider these other casual trouser options. 

  1. Wool flannels are some of the best trousers you can buy. The material has a soft nap and a beautiful, varying color. They’re as comfortable as pajamas, but look very sharp at the same time. The best thing, however, is that while they work best for fall, you can wear them just as easily in the winter and spring. I recommend getting a few pairs, especially in various shades of grey. 
  2. Corduroys are another fall staple. The ribs on corduroy are known as wales, and they can range from seven per inch (jumbo cords) to sixteen (needlecords or pinwale cords). Generally speaking, the more wales, the lighter the cloth and youthful the look. If you don’t already have a pair, get them in dark brown. 
  3. Moleskins should be your next purchase. Like corduroys, they’re a hardwearing, brushed cotton fabric that has a bit of a velvety hand. Unlike cords, however, they don’t have wales. I like mine in olive, tan, and charcoal, but you can get them in any autumnal color, really. 
  4. Whipcords and cavalry twills are essentially the same thing. These are steeply angled twills, made from either cotton or wool, and often made for very hardwearing environments.  Get them in various shades of grey or brown. 
  5. Lastly, I recommend heavier weight woolens. Again, various shades of brown and grey will be most versatile, but olive here can be nice as well.  

For all the options above, I suggest you get them cuffed. In my opinion, casual trousers in the fall and winter always look better cuffed, and this becomes doubly true when you wear boots. If you decide to get cuffs, get them made proportional to your height. The current trend is for large, 2” cuffs, but you can get anything from 1.5” to 2”. Pick something that accords with your body type and sense of style. A shorter man will do better with smaller cuffs than a man of average or tall build. 

As promised, here’s a casual shot of Igor from Russia.  I love the Spring Courts with no socks, the high hem on the khakis, and the boldly-colored, well-fit polo.  These are simple elements, but everything’s impressively executed.  The result is a casual outfit that’s still striking.

As promised, here’s a casual shot of Igor from Russia.  I love the Spring Courts with no socks, the high hem on the khakis, and the boldly-colored, well-fit polo.  These are simple elements, but everything’s impressively executed.  The result is a casual outfit that’s still striking.

theimpossiblecool:
Newman.
A few lessons from this photograph of Paul Newman:
Nothing wrong with big-ass cuffs on your pants.
Simple canvas sneakers almost always look better than the alternative.
Being unfathomably good looking really pulls an outfit together.

theimpossiblecool:

Newman.

A few lessons from this photograph of Paul Newman:

  • Nothing wrong with big-ass cuffs on your pants.
  • Simple canvas sneakers almost always look better than the alternative.
  • Being unfathomably good looking really pulls an outfit together.