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Q and Answer: Hem, Cuff or Stack Your Jeans?

Jesse (not me) asks: So since these new Levi’s you posted only come in one length, what do I do with the extra length? Roll it? Have them hemmed? Help!

This one’s a matter of personal taste.

First of all: remember to get the shrink out first.  Even if the jeans are sanforized, they’ll lose a little length, so do your hemming after your soak.

Then, there are three choices: hemming, cuffing, or stacking.

A tailor can hem your jeans for you.  If you happen to live somewhere with a fancy jeans store like Self Edge, they’ll have a chain stitch machine that can hem your jeans industrial-style.  If you don’t live in a major metropolitan area, any tailor or alterationist can use some fancy fabric work to retain the original hem while shortening the inseam.

Some people prefer to cuff their jeans a few inches.  Until the middle of the 20th century, denim wasn’t widely available in varying lengths, so it was often cuffed rather than being hemmed.  We’re fine with this, though you should know that it’s a much bolder choice aesthetically than uncuffed.

You can also “stack” your jeans.  Unlike dress pants, it’s totally fine to wear jeans a little long.  How this looks will depend on how wide the legs of the jeans are (on either extreme it starts to look silly).  Some people are totally for this, some totally against, we try not to worry about it too much.

So: if your preference is neutrality, have them hemmed.  If you feel comfortable looking a bit like a person who might use the phrase, “Hey youse guys!” then cuffing is for you.  Stacking will give you a bit of attitude but a less clean look.

The choice is yours.

It’s On Sale

Levis Vintage Clothing 1947 501s

These are a much slimmer 501 based on the model introduced in 1947.  I got a pair for Christmas, and they’re my every-day jeans.  I personally prefer the higher rise to the low-rise options like the 514.  Only a few sizes are left.

$99.90 (originally $175) at LevisStore.com

Big news from the folks at Levi’s… their most contemporary cut, the 514, is now available in Japanese selvage denim.  They describe the finish as “pure rigid,” which I’m pretty sure means raw.  It’s only offered in one length, so I’m guessing the denim is sanforized.  The best part?  They’re less than a hundred dollars.

My only beef with these is that they have a pretty low rise, which makes tucking a shirt in nearly impossible, but the cut through the thighs and legs is great.  And for $98 at full price, they’re a very solid deal.

It’s On Ebay

Crate “Journal” raw denim jeans.

I bought a pair of these at the Barney’s warehouse sale last spring, and really like them - but be careful, because they fit several inches smaller than the tagged size.  I bought my usual jean size and it was so small I couldn’t get them on.  So check those measurements.  But they’re very nice jeans.

Starting at $49, ends Thursday

Q and Answer

Andrew writes:

I saw your first video, and fell in love with the idea of buying raw denim.  The problem I’m encountering, is I’m not sure how to size them properly.  I’ve seen some manufacturers recommend buying raw denim several inches larger in the waist and several inches longer in the inseam, to allow for shrinkage.  But, if I follow your advice for washing them in cold water only when necessary, I think that will probably minimize the shrinkage, since I’ll be keeping them out of the dryer.  My concern is, that if I follow the manufacturer recommendation and buy them too long, then they’ll never fit properly, unless I wash them traditionally, and wash all the indigo right out of them.

This is important, so let’s break it down.

First of all, some raw denim is Sanforized.  This process, developed in the 1930s, more or less eliminates shrinkage.  So if you’re buying Sanforized denim (it will typically be labeled), you can buy your natural size (perhaps adding one inch in length) and you won’t even need to pre-soak.

The purpose of the soak is to shrink your jeans.  If you’re hoping to achieve maximum contrast in your fading, you want to shrink first, because otherwise, after the first wash, all your stress points will be in different places due to shrinking.  We suggested turning the jeans inside out and not agitating them to keep the dye in place while allowing the warm water and drying to shrink the fabric.

Most non-Sanforized jeans will shrink an inch or two in the waist and two or three inches in the inseam.  Levis usually suggests buying Shrink-to-Fit 501s two inches too big in the waist and three inches too long in the inseam.  However, denim stretches over time, particularly when its wet.  Our recommendation for 501s is to go the usual 2-3” long in the inseam, but go with a waistband size that fits comfortably but isn’t too loose.  Any shrink you get in the waist will stretch out over the first couple of wearings.

If you’re ever concerned that your jeans may shrink too tight, you can always put them on when they’re still a bit moist, and they’ll stretch easily and dry to your exact size.  Just be careful not to sit in any chairs - not only will you transfer dye to the seat, you’ll also stretch out the knees of your jeans and make them puffy.

Of course, jean sizing is an inexact science.  My natural waist is about 37.5”, and I wear a 36 waist in Levis jeans, be they shrink-to-fit or pre-washed.  My APC New Standards were sized a ridiculous 34 - APCs are not only absurdly vanity sized, but also extremely stretch-prone.  Your best bet is to try before you buy and get some advice from a salesman who knows his products.

Also of note: many jeans come sized only by waist.  Unless you’re extremely tall, these will end up being a bit long for you.  Take them to a tailor or alterationist and have them shortened to the appropriate length after you’ve soaked them.  Have the tailor retain the original hem - he won’t be able to match the look on his own.

My mother spent several years as a textile conservator.  It was her job to clean and preserve fabrics of all kinds without damaging them for San Francisco’s The Mexican Museum.

When she saw our segment on denim care, she just about exploded out of her seat to send me an email demanding that we use Orvus Paste Shampoo rather than Woolite Dark, which is what we recommended.  And moms are always right.

Let’s start with this admission: Orvus Paste Shampoo is for horses.  And dogs.  On the plus side, though, it’s apparently “great on manure stains.”

Orvus is used by conservators because it’s completely Ph-neutral and exceedingly gentle, even more so than Woolite or Dr. Bronners or any other product on the market.  It’s also used by quilters to care for delicate quilts - if you’re buying the small jar, you’ll find it at a quilting store, rather than the feed stores where you’ll find the larger jars.

Now, all of this is getting a bit precious, I know.  I’ve used regular laundry detergent to wash my jeans, and it was just fine.  But there’s no doubt that the process is part of the fun of raw denim, and I’m not going to keep you from buying some Orvus, in case of manure stains.

Plus, I’ve got a dog who needs a shampoo from time to time… and a quilt Nee-Naw made that could use a wash.  That’s it, it’s settled.  Orvus Paste Shampoo it is.

Tips and Tricks

If you’re looking for an inexpensive alternative to high-end slim jeans, the Levis 514 is a great option, and they’re only $30 or so.  The cut is flattering and contemporary, and while they’re not available raw, the “tumbled rigid” finish is an acceptable substitute.  The rise is low - that’s the distance between the crotch and waistband - so they’re not the best for tucking a shirt into or hiding a little gut, but they look great with a t-shirt.  And of course, if you happen to have beautiful luxury sneakers like the ones pictured above, all the better…

Q and Answer

Ben S. writes:

In Episode 1, Denim, you said that one should only wear one piece of denim. If one cannot wear a denim jacket with jeans, what *should* a denim jacket be worn with?

First of all, we want to be clear about one thing: there are some people who look good in a denim jacket and jeans.  These people work harder than you in their jobs and less hard than you on their outfits.  They have very shapely rear ends which are highlighted by a snuff-can fade on their back pockets.  They are badass.  The Marlboro man is a good example.  Hats off to these guys.  More power to ‘em.

There are also “denim heads,” who build their lives around denim.  Mike Hodis, the subject of Episode 1, is a good example.  Usually they are wearing pieces that were originally the same color, but have gained patina over time.  These guys are so committed to their favorite fabric that they can often pull it off.  Even they, though, sometimes look like yutzes.

Our advice is for the other 97% of the population.

Denim jackets are tough to wear, frankly.  That’s why we said that the one piece of denim in your outfit should probably be jeans.  They are entirely possible to wear, though.

Kanye West looks great pairing his denim jacket with chinos, and that’s probably your best bet.  The trick is that they have to be tough guy chinos, not IT-guy chinos.  Khaki pants were developed for the military, not for guys in Dockers commercials, and the closer you get to that practical aesthetic, the better you’ll look with a denim jacket on.  The pants have to be denim alternatives, not dress-pant alternatives.