Put This On

A web series about dressing like a grownup

Q and Answer: Protecting Shoe Soles
A reader writes: I have quite an annoying problem that cause  my shoe  heals to wear unevenly, favoring the outside heel, at quite a rapid  pace.  It has something to do with how i walk I suspect. I have destroyed many a   shoe this way long before their time, is their anyway to to correct  this?
We talked with Raoul about this very subject for our second episode, but we just didn’t have enough time to include it in the final cut.  Here are the basics.
New shoes can be fitted with heel protectors, sometimes called “taps.”  These are kidney-bean shaped pieces of hard plastic which are nailed to the outside back of the heel, where heel wear is worst.  They’re cheap (usually about five bucks, including installation), and they can be removed and replaced as the wear away.  Sometimes similar protectors are installed on the forefoot - this is useful if you have a gait which wears one side or the other of the toebox dramatically more, but it’s much less common than heel protectors.
You can also have a sole protector attached.  This is a thin layer of hard rubber which is cemented to the sole of the shoe.  Sometimes it’s known by the brand name Topy, but Topy isn’t the only brand that makes sole protectors.  This will give you a bit of extra purchase on smooth surfaces, and is also easily replaceable when it wears down, saving your leather soles.  It does reduce the breathability of the sole slightly (one of the advantages of leather), and it’s generally a bit less attractive than a leather sole, though it should be all but invisible from the side view.  This is a bit more expensive, in the ten to twenty dollar range.
The most important thing to remember is that your sole and heel are both replaceable.  Take your shoes to the repairman before the bottom layer of the heel or sole is worn through completely, and he can replace that layer easily, particularly on good shoes.  A full sole replacement will be in the neighborhood fifty dollars, and a heel much less.

Q and Answer: Protecting Shoe Soles

A reader writes: I have quite an annoying problem that cause my shoe heals to wear unevenly, favoring the outside heel, at quite a rapid pace. It has something to do with how i walk I suspect. I have destroyed many a shoe this way long before their time, is their anyway to to correct this?

We talked with Raoul about this very subject for our second episode, but we just didn’t have enough time to include it in the final cut.  Here are the basics.

New shoes can be fitted with heel protectors, sometimes called “taps.”  These are kidney-bean shaped pieces of hard plastic which are nailed to the outside back of the heel, where heel wear is worst.  They’re cheap (usually about five bucks, including installation), and they can be removed and replaced as the wear away.  Sometimes similar protectors are installed on the forefoot - this is useful if you have a gait which wears one side or the other of the toebox dramatically more, but it’s much less common than heel protectors.

You can also have a sole protector attached.  This is a thin layer of hard rubber which is cemented to the sole of the shoe.  Sometimes it’s known by the brand name Topy, but Topy isn’t the only brand that makes sole protectors.  This will give you a bit of extra purchase on smooth surfaces, and is also easily replaceable when it wears down, saving your leather soles.  It does reduce the breathability of the sole slightly (one of the advantages of leather), and it’s generally a bit less attractive than a leather sole, though it should be all but invisible from the side view.  This is a bit more expensive, in the ten to twenty dollar range.

The most important thing to remember is that your sole and heel are both replaceable.  Take your shoes to the repairman before the bottom layer of the heel or sole is worn through completely, and he can replace that layer easily, particularly on good shoes.  A full sole replacement will be in the neighborhood fifty dollars, and a heel much less.

Q and Answer: Suede and Water
Avi writes:  I recently picked up a pair of Clarks Dessert Boots, of the Oakwood  Suede variety. Continuing your recent shoe care theme, how do I go  about keeping suede shoes clean and unmarked? Can I waterproof shoes of  this type? I’ve noticed a few minor watermarks already—am I stuck with  these discolorations?
Suede is extremely difficult to keep clean and unmarked, particularly if it’s a lighter color.  Even water can leave a spot and ruin the nap of the leather. 
There are a couple of paths you can follow.
When your shoes are new, you can spray them with a silicone-based water sealant.  These are available in the shoe section of your local drugstore, or from your shoe repair shop.  A few coats (let them dry thoroughly in between) won’t turn them into galoshes, but it will help if you get caught out there. 
You can also buy a suede kit.  Most are two tools and a stain remover.  The tools are essentially a gum eraser, for rubbing the soil off, and a brush, for bringing up the nap.  If you get a spot, this can really help.
The third course of action is probably the best, though.  Just accept that they’ll get dinged up.  It’s pretty much the nature of the beast.

Q and Answer: Suede and Water

Avi writes:  I recently picked up a pair of Clarks Dessert Boots, of the Oakwood Suede variety. Continuing your recent shoe care theme, how do I go about keeping suede shoes clean and unmarked? Can I waterproof shoes of this type? I’ve noticed a few minor watermarks already—am I stuck with these discolorations?

Suede is extremely difficult to keep clean and unmarked, particularly if it’s a lighter color.  Even water can leave a spot and ruin the nap of the leather. 

There are a couple of paths you can follow.

When your shoes are new, you can spray them with a silicone-based water sealant.  These are available in the shoe section of your local drugstore, or from your shoe repair shop.  A few coats (let them dry thoroughly in between) won’t turn them into galoshes, but it will help if you get caught out there. 

You can also buy a suede kit.  Most are two tools and a stain remover.  The tools are essentially a gum eraser, for rubbing the soil off, and a brush, for bringing up the nap.  If you get a spot, this can really help.

The third course of action is probably the best, though.  Just accept that they’ll get dinged up.  It’s pretty much the nature of the beast.

I went thrifting in Palm Springs the other day.  Didn’t buy much, but I did pick up a couple new (old) pairs of shoe trees.

Q and Answer: Episode 2 Followups
Amar writes: Where can I get some of the shoe care items (like polish and conditioner) that you show in the video?  Also, where can I get the different types of brushes you used? I have a  cloth for buffing/polishing and I’m wary of taking a brush to the fine  leather instead.  Finally, I have one pair of shoe trees but 4 pairs of shoes on rotation.  Does this mean I should get an additional 3 pairs of shoe trees, one  for each shoe? Or is one fine to use after wearing a pair?
That’s a lot of questions, Amar.  Luckily, they’re pretty easy to answer.
Any shoe repair shop will have a wide range of colors and types of shoe polish, leather cleaner and conditioner.  If for some reason you live in a place with no shoe repair shops (underwater city?), there’s usually a pretty fully stocked shoe section in any large grocery store or pharmacy.  You can also order online from any number of shops, though shipping charges can be as much as the cost of the item being shipped.  The usual brands are Kiwi and Meltonian, and while some have fancier preferences, I don’t see much difference.  Brushes can be found in the same places - usually a grocery store will have one dauber and one larger brush, while a shoe repair store may have a few more choices.  They certainly won’t harm your leather.
Good shoes should be stored with shoe trees in them at all times.  You can buy shoe trees at most decent shoe stores or department stores, or at closet shops like The Container Store or Bed, Bath & Beyond.  At full retail, they usually run about $15 or $20 a pair.  They sometimes pop up for a discounted price at Costco, as well.  If you live near a Nordstrom Rack, they always sell discounted cedar shoe trees that are of very good quality for about $10 a pair.  I buy most of my trees at thrift stores and estate sales - usually they don’t cost more than about $4 a pair that way. 

Q and Answer: Episode 2 Followups

Amar writes: Where can I get some of the shoe care items (like polish and conditioner) that you show in the video?  Also, where can I get the different types of brushes you used? I have a cloth for buffing/polishing and I’m wary of taking a brush to the fine leather instead.  Finally, I have one pair of shoe trees but 4 pairs of shoes on rotation. Does this mean I should get an additional 3 pairs of shoe trees, one for each shoe? Or is one fine to use after wearing a pair?

That’s a lot of questions, Amar.  Luckily, they’re pretty easy to answer.

Any shoe repair shop will have a wide range of colors and types of shoe polish, leather cleaner and conditioner.  If for some reason you live in a place with no shoe repair shops (underwater city?), there’s usually a pretty fully stocked shoe section in any large grocery store or pharmacy.  You can also order online from any number of shops, though shipping charges can be as much as the cost of the item being shipped.  The usual brands are Kiwi and Meltonian, and while some have fancier preferences, I don’t see much difference.  Brushes can be found in the same places - usually a grocery store will have one dauber and one larger brush, while a shoe repair store may have a few more choices.  They certainly won’t harm your leather.

Good shoes should be stored with shoe trees in them at all times.  You can buy shoe trees at most decent shoe stores or department stores, or at closet shops like The Container Store or Bed, Bath & Beyond.  At full retail, they usually run about $15 or $20 a pair.  They sometimes pop up for a discounted price at Costco, as well.  If you live near a Nordstrom Rack, they always sell discounted cedar shoe trees that are of very good quality for about $10 a pair.  I buy most of my trees at thrift stores and estate sales - usually they don’t cost more than about $4 a pair that way. 

We’re getting a good response from the Shoe Tying Rudiment segment of Episode 2, so I thought it’d be good to link to the source, which includes a more detailed set of instructions in a video from Runner’s World.
Pay special attention to the narrator’s stuffed-up nose and the appropriate use of the BOIOIOING sound effect to illustrate the inefficiency of the granny knot:
Video: Tie Your Shoes More Effeciently
via lowindustrial

We’re getting a good response from the Shoe Tying Rudiment segment of Episode 2, so I thought it’d be good to link to the source, which includes a more detailed set of instructions in a video from Runner’s World.

Pay special attention to the narrator’s stuffed-up nose and the appropriate use of the BOIOIOING sound effect to illustrate the inefficiency of the granny knot:

Video: Tie Your Shoes More Effeciently

via lowindustrial

Intro

Intro

At Willie's

At Willie's

Cleaning & Polishing

Cleaning & Polishing

Episode 2: Clothing Credits

Intro

Pants - Uniqlo Vintage Chino

Shirt - RRL

Overshirt - Vintage (ca. 1950s)

At Willie’s

Shirt - Lands’ End Tailored Fit Oxford

Tie - Vintage, unlabeled

Blazer - Vintage by A. DiNella & Son of Philadelphia

Square - Robert Talbott

Shoes - Vintage Florsheim Longwings in Burgundy Shell Cordovan

Example Shoes - Joseph Cheaney & Sons

Cleaning & Polishing

Shirt - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

Chinos - Benjamin Bixby

Shoes - Generic Surplus