I’ve written before about why black suits are generally unsuitable during the day. They’re severe, they make you look like a clergyman or undertaker, they’re not particularly appropriate for business and they make most men look at least a little sickly.
At night, though, it’s a different story. That’s where a black suit like this one I spotted on eBay can really come into its own. Some of the details of this suit suggest evening wear - it has a single button-front and is single-breasted with peak lapels. Those say “formal” and “evening.” They’re features of the formal suit, or of the tuxedo.
This guy doesn’t have satin or grosgrain lapels, though, and its slanted, flapped pockets make clear it’s a suit. It’s made of mohair, which is lightweight and has a slight sheen. That sheen could be a liability during the day, but at night it’s welcome.
What you get, then, is an elegant suit for evening occasions that don’t call for black tie. An important dinner, a play, an opening. Events that require a dressed-up outfit, a little panache, but not a tuxedo and not business garb.
Of course, one can move further down the road to casual as the event requires, from a minimalist notch-lapel black suit all the way to, say, black boots, dark jeans and a black cashmere sweater. Or even a black leather jacket. Black, while unsuitable during the day, is the color of evening elegance - no matter how formal the occasion.

I’ve written before about why black suits are generally unsuitable during the day. They’re severe, they make you look like a clergyman or undertaker, they’re not particularly appropriate for business and they make most men look at least a little sickly.

At night, though, it’s a different story. That’s where a black suit like this one I spotted on eBay can really come into its own. Some of the details of this suit suggest evening wear - it has a single button-front and is single-breasted with peak lapels. Those say “formal” and “evening.” They’re features of the formal suit, or of the tuxedo.

This guy doesn’t have satin or grosgrain lapels, though, and its slanted, flapped pockets make clear it’s a suit. It’s made of mohair, which is lightweight and has a slight sheen. That sheen could be a liability during the day, but at night it’s welcome.

What you get, then, is an elegant suit for evening occasions that don’t call for black tie. An important dinner, a play, an opening. Events that require a dressed-up outfit, a little panache, but not a tuxedo and not business garb.

Of course, one can move further down the road to casual as the event requires, from a minimalist notch-lapel black suit all the way to, say, black boots, dark jeans and a black cashmere sweater. Or even a black leather jacket. Black, while unsuitable during the day, is the color of evening elegance - no matter how formal the occasion.

Atlanta brothers Andre and Keith Churchwell looking brilliant on a summer evening, in a photo from A Suitable Wardrobe. Two of the world’s best-dressed men pulling off colored dinner jackets perfectly. The off-white dinner jacket is a summer staple - great for warm weather and less-serious black tie events. The relaxed elegance of the shawl lapel matches this tone perfectly. Light blue is a little tougher to pull off, a real sartorial power move, but Andre Churchwell couldn’t be pulling it off better.

And by the way: note Andre’s opera pumps, always the most elegant evening footwear choice. You can try and tell him he looks feminine if you want to. I’ll be too busy telling him he looks spectacular.

Jerry Seinfeld tells Tom Papa that tuxedos are not to be trusted.

It’s On eBay
Henry Poole & Co. Tuxedo
I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw this coat on the rack. Henry Poole? Really? But there were no trousers. That meant an absolutely frantic search through the pants rack… and paydirt. 
Henry Poole & Co. invented the tuxedo in the late 19th century as a more casual dinner suiting for their client the Prince of Wales. After an American saw it and ordered one for himself, which he wore for dinner in the Tuxedo Club in New York, the tuxedo was born. 
This thing is in perfect shape and it’s absolutely beautiful. It’s a couple inches short for my 42L frame, but if you’re a 42R or maybe even a 42S, you could have a piece which cost $3000-4000 for a tenth of that. It’s a piece you can genuinely wear for life.
Starts at $390 on eBay

It’s On eBay

Henry Poole & Co. Tuxedo

I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw this coat on the rack. Henry Poole? Really? But there were no trousers. That meant an absolutely frantic search through the pants rack… and paydirt.

Henry Poole & Co. invented the tuxedo in the late 19th century as a more casual dinner suiting for their client the Prince of Wales. After an American saw it and ordered one for himself, which he wore for dinner in the Tuxedo Club in New York, the tuxedo was born.

This thing is in perfect shape and it’s absolutely beautiful. It’s a couple inches short for my 42L frame, but if you’re a 42R or maybe even a 42S, you could have a piece which cost $3000-4000 for a tenth of that. It’s a piece you can genuinely wear for life.

Starts at $390 on eBay

Q and Answer: What Is Cocktail Attire?
Kyle writes: When one is instructed to wear cocktail attire, what is appropriate?
Cocktail attire doesn’t have a strict definition - it’s a way of requesting clothes that are appropriate for the evening, more formal than casual clothes and less formal than evening wear (like black tie or white tie).
What you should put on when the invitation says “Cocktail Attire” depends to a great extent on context. Cocktail attire at an after-work event for the warehouse workers at a paper company will likely be less formal than cocktail attire at a reception for the Metropolitan Opera. You’ll have to know your own wardrobe and have some idea of what sort of event you’re headed to if you want to make educated choices.
No matter how formal the event is, you’ll want to be appropriate for the time of day, which will almost certainly be after dark. That means favoring dark solid colors, wearing black shoes rather than brown and choosing suits over sport coats. Navy blue, dark gray and black are especially appropriate for evening. (Yes, I really am recommending black.)
On the casual side of the spectrum, you might wear something as simple as a sharp pair of pants, a pressed shirt and a v-neck sweater. You may even be able to get away with dark jeans. Remember when going casual after dark that your goal should be to look sharp. This means avoiding anything that looks sporty or outdoorsy and focusing on fit.
The classic cocktail attire for men is simple: a dark, solid suit. This can be worn with or without a similarly simple tie, depending on the formality of the event. A plain white or blue shirt and black shoes completes the look. If you wish, you can be a bit more fashion-forward in the styling of the suit in this context - you’re not at work. No pinstripes, please, those scream “business.”
Remember that this is one of the most flexible dress codes you’ll encounter. The key here is not so much formality as tone. Think of Sinatra or Bond in their black tie - that’s the tone you want to create, whether you’re wearing jeans and a sweater or a suit and tie.

Q and Answer: What Is Cocktail Attire?

Kyle writes: When one is instructed to wear cocktail attire, what is appropriate?

Cocktail attire doesn’t have a strict definition - it’s a way of requesting clothes that are appropriate for the evening, more formal than casual clothes and less formal than evening wear (like black tie or white tie).

What you should put on when the invitation says “Cocktail Attire” depends to a great extent on context. Cocktail attire at an after-work event for the warehouse workers at a paper company will likely be less formal than cocktail attire at a reception for the Metropolitan Opera. You’ll have to know your own wardrobe and have some idea of what sort of event you’re headed to if you want to make educated choices.

No matter how formal the event is, you’ll want to be appropriate for the time of day, which will almost certainly be after dark. That means favoring dark solid colors, wearing black shoes rather than brown and choosing suits over sport coats. Navy blue, dark gray and black are especially appropriate for evening. (Yes, I really am recommending black.)

On the casual side of the spectrum, you might wear something as simple as a sharp pair of pants, a pressed shirt and a v-neck sweater. You may even be able to get away with dark jeans. Remember when going casual after dark that your goal should be to look sharp. This means avoiding anything that looks sporty or outdoorsy and focusing on fit.

The classic cocktail attire for men is simple: a dark, solid suit. This can be worn with or without a similarly simple tie, depending on the formality of the event. A plain white or blue shirt and black shoes completes the look. If you wish, you can be a bit more fashion-forward in the styling of the suit in this context - you’re not at work. No pinstripes, please, those scream “business.”

Remember that this is one of the most flexible dress codes you’ll encounter. The key here is not so much formality as tone. Think of Sinatra or Bond in their black tie - that’s the tone you want to create, whether you’re wearing jeans and a sweater or a suit and tie.

It’s On eBay
Circa 1920s Astrakhan Coat by Lesley & Roberts
This is the coat to wear if you want to look fabulous while being blown to bits by an old-timey bomb thrown by a Spanish anarchist.  If I ever get invited to the Oscars, I’m wearing (vintage) astrakhan.
Starts at $156, ends Monday

It’s On eBay

Circa 1920s Astrakhan Coat by Lesley & Roberts

This is the coat to wear if you want to look fabulous while being blown to bits by an old-timey bomb thrown by a Spanish anarchist.  If I ever get invited to the Oscars, I’m wearing (vintage) astrakhan.

Starts at $156, ends Monday