Put This On Presents: Dave Hill vs. Fashion Week 2012

Put This On’s intrepid field correspondent Dave Hill hit New York’s Fashion Week once again to find out what makes it so magical. Turns out, it’s mountains of cocaine!

Can you spot Anna Wintour, Scott Schuman and Bill Cunningham? How about Dave Hill? Can you spot Dave Hill?

Put This On Season Two & Season One DVD: Coming Tuesday 3/13!

Previously: Dave Hill at Fashion Week 2011

(And be sure to pre-order Dave’s new book, Tasteful Nudes… and Other Misguided Attempts at Personal Growth and Validation)

“The conspicuously well dressed man is not a well dressed man at all, but merely a block for displaying the best materials and the latest fashions upon. His clothes and all articles of outward attire cry out their quality, and forcibly draw attention to their very newest cut, set, twist, or turn; and you say “There’s a dressy man if you like! Everything right up to date, including the walking stick.” The really well dressed man attracts no such remark. Of him you are more likely to say, “That man looks very smart - for some reason or another. Wonder what it is!” You may depend upon it that the man of whom that is said is a man not only of fashion, but of something very important besides - namely, good taste, strong individuality, faithfulness to personal style.” Fashion, August 1899
Oh my gosh, you guys!
Isn’t that celebrity author Dave Hill?
Where could he be? Fashion week?
Could he be getting ready to school everyone on the important subject of fashion on behalf of the hit videoblog Put This On?!
THIS IS AMAZING!

Oh my gosh, you guys!

Isn’t that celebrity author Dave Hill?

Where could he be? Fashion week?

Could he be getting ready to school everyone on the important subject of fashion on behalf of the hit videoblog Put This On?!

THIS IS AMAZING!

Transparency in Fashion
The Financial Times published an interesting article last week on a new online retailer that is taking a strong stance on transparency:

You go to “collection” and, say, you click on a coat. Under the section “material information” you will find the description of material used, its composition, weight, yarn or piece-dyed, the origin of the raw material, who spun it, who wove it, whether it is organic, if so, what certificate it has earned (and what said certificate means), and a website for the supplier – and you will find this for the fabric, the zipper, the lining, the trim, the label, the buttons, the thread and so on.
Meanwhile, under “price information”: you will find out the cost per metre of the fabric, how much was ordered, how much was used, how much labour was involved, what the mark-up was, and how the profit was used.
In other words, by the time you press “buy” you will know exactly what you are paying for.

The journalist who wrote the piece said it could be the start of a revolution. That’s a pretty liberal use of the word, but still, I think this is an important development. 
One of the many problems in the fashion industry, I think, is that any and all potentially meaningful words quickly get abused through marketing. Not that this is exclusive to fashion, but since this is a site about clothing, we start here. 
“Handmade” can mean anything from an artisan working with just a needle and thread to someone feeding something through a machine. “Made in Italy” has become mostly a marketing term since complex production chains and WTO Rules of Origin allow things to be made in China, sent to Italy for minor finishing, and then sold with the tag “Made in Italy.” Cashmere used to mean something was made with a high-quality, soft, strong and insulating wool, but is now used to market things even lower-end than your good cottons. “Heritage brand” could have meant something, but now there are companies started by men younger than me, and they call their brands “heritage companies.” 
Of course, it’s not a given that transparent labeling will translate to better purchasing decisions. But as nutrition labels have helped a small segment of health conscious Americans make better decisions, I’d like to think better labels on clothing will do the same. Break down the production chain, tell us where each part of the production process was done, where things are sourced, and how much each step cost, and you would get a much less cynical consumer base. 

Transparency in Fashion

The Financial Times published an interesting article last week on a new online retailer that is taking a strong stance on transparency:

You go to “collection” and, say, you click on a coat. Under the section “material information” you will find the description of material used, its composition, weight, yarn or piece-dyed, the origin of the raw material, who spun it, who wove it, whether it is organic, if so, what certificate it has earned (and what said certificate means), and a website for the supplier – and you will find this for the fabric, the zipper, the lining, the trim, the label, the buttons, the thread and so on.

Meanwhile, under “price information”: you will find out the cost per metre of the fabric, how much was ordered, how much was used, how much labour was involved, what the mark-up was, and how the profit was used.

In other words, by the time you press “buy” you will know exactly what you are paying for.

The journalist who wrote the piece said it could be the start of a revolution. That’s a pretty liberal use of the word, but still, I think this is an important development. 

One of the many problems in the fashion industry, I think, is that any and all potentially meaningful words quickly get abused through marketing. Not that this is exclusive to fashion, but since this is a site about clothing, we start here. 

“Handmade” can mean anything from an artisan working with just a needle and thread to someone feeding something through a machine. “Made in Italy” has become mostly a marketing term since complex production chains and WTO Rules of Origin allow things to be made in China, sent to Italy for minor finishing, and then sold with the tag “Made in Italy.” Cashmere used to mean something was made with a high-quality, soft, strong and insulating wool, but is now used to market things even lower-end than your good cottons. “Heritage brand” could have meant something, but now there are companies started by men younger than me, and they call their brands “heritage companies.” 

Of course, it’s not a given that transparent labeling will translate to better purchasing decisions. But as nutrition labels have helped a small segment of health conscious Americans make better decisions, I’d like to think better labels on clothing will do the same. Break down the production chain, tell us where each part of the production process was done, where things are sourced, and how much each step cost, and you would get a much less cynical consumer base. 

Tom Ford: Visionary

Look past the fashion-industry required nonsense talk, and I think you’ll find an interesting a very smart man in Tom Ford. I certainly found this hour-long special from the Oprah network worth my time.

“Clothes are meant for private living; clothes that produce excitement and applause give the press things to write about but shock the man of taste.”

Hardy Amies on Fashion Shows

(via)

“Fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life. I don’t think you could do away with it. It would be like doing away with civilization.” — Bill Cunningham (via theprettypalate)

Bill Cunningham New York is out on DVD, and you can also find it on Netflix Instant. It’s a documentary about Bill Cunningham, the On the Street photographer for the New York Times, who also has been shooting society events and fashion shows since the couture era.

The 80-something Cunningham lives a monastic life: he spent fifty years in a studio apartment in Carnegie Hall, the walls of which were lined with filing cabinets full of photographs. Indeed, the apartment had no other features besides filing cabinets of photographs: the bathroom was down the hall, and the bed was simply a bedroll on top of some plywood on top of some filing cabinets.

Cunningham simply lives clothes. Every morning, he puts on his trademark work smock (he buys them in bulk for $20 each at a hardware store in Paris), pulls his bike out of a janitor’s closet in his building, and hits the street, documenting the beauty around him. If you’ve ever watched one of his slideshows for NYTimes.com, you know that his eye is informed and discerning, but also gloriously enthusiastic, democratic and non-judgemental. Follow his work for a month and you’ll see society doyennes, drag queens, Harlem teenagers and everything in between.

Then, at night, he puts on an orange safety vest and pedals to charity benefits - he refuses to look at guest lists and picks solely based on what he thinks of the charity, and he won’t eat or even drink their food. He simply documents, documents, documents.

The film is so filled with inspiration, it almost boils over. Cunningham’s beautiful, half-French, half-English speech as he is inducted into the French Order of Arts & Letters is not to be missed. “Seek beauty, and you’ll find it.”

The movie touches upon Cunningham the man, as well. He is, as he admits, both garrulous and open and fiercely guarded. We tried to book him for season one of our show and were turned down flat - the documentarians, friends of his, worked for years to convince him to participate. He goes to mass every week, and has never had a romantic relationship.

If, like me, you’re turned off by the fashion industry, Cunningham may restore your faith in its possibilities. He’s questioned about whether fashion matters, whether he should have dedicated his life dealing with the “real problems” of the “real world.” Our clothes, he says, are our armor: that which gives us the strength to engage the world instead of shrinking from it. He’s a man who believes, really, in beauty. His sincerity and open heart are absolutely magical.

Seriously: watch the film.

Dave Hill Visits New York Fashion Week: 2011

“Hi, I’m Dave Hill for Put This On, coming to you from Fashion Week in New York City, a week-long nightmare where people try, and fail, to look as incredible as me.”

As a thank-you for all of the 1,600+ people who backed season two of our show, we sent our correspondent Dave Hill to New York Fashion Week to talk to fashion fans ranging from the exceedingly gracious Bryan Boy to the the exceedingly quiet “Natasha Finkel, Fashionista Feline of the Persian Persuasion.” (Cats can’t talk.)

As always, Dave made some new friends, some new LADY friends, and wowed the world with his dashing style and almost inhuman panache.

“Statistically speaking, we’re standing in the eye of a poon storm.”