Put This On

BespoKenN recently showed me these flannel trousers by Paul Stuart. For those unfamiliar with flannel, it’s a densely packed, soft fabric that has wool fibers of varying lengths laying in different directions. The close up pictures here show it well. The fabric can come in various weights and it always feels amazingly comfortable. It’s also very efficient at trapping heat, so it’s great for the fall and winter seasons.

I have a few flannel trousers in various shades of grey and brown, but have been wondering what would be the next best color to get them in. I’ve been contemplating olive, and after seeing these Paul Stuart flannels, I think I’ve come to the right decision.

ethandesu:

Ghillie and Flannel

This photo is a perfect illustration of the power of flannel trousers.

See how pleasing the contrast between the soft finish of the flannel and the hard finish of the shoe is?

I have to admit that I’m also drawn to the audacity of the ghillies. Ghillies are a traditional Scottish shoe - the distinguishing feature is the unusual lacing system. True traditional ghillies, which are worn for Scottish dancing, don’t have tongues. This shoes off the hose, but like brogueing, its roots are practical - the lack of tongue left an easy egress for bogwater. They’re also tied around the shin, so the knot doesn’t get muddy.

The tongue-less style are really only practical to wear with other elements of traditional Scottish dress, but this toned-down version looks beautiful, doesn’t it?

thisfits:

Tailored Fit Flat Front Flannel Trousers - $90.65 shipped at Lands’ End

Use promo code STUDY, PIN 1372 (30% off one item, free shipping for $50+ purchase)

I’ve been on the look out for mid-grey flannel pants for a few weeks now, and this is the best price I’ve seen yet. Note that there’s free hemming, down to the quarter inch. That said, Kiyoshi and others have said these still need a taper, so you may not save that much on tailoring.

This is a very solid value (note that the coupon is probably limited, but you can get a deal by signing up for Lands’ End’s newsletter). I would recommend Polo from eBay first - there’s usually some there for about this price - but otherwise, go Lands’ End if you don’t want to spend more than a hundy.

The Importance of Gray Pants

There are two essential casual pants: blue jeans and chinos.

For every other situation that doesn’t call for a suit, there is only one: gray wool.

Even more than the blue blazer, the gray pant is a staple of the well-dressed man. Virtually every sportcoat will look well paired with gray pants. In fact, some suggest that if a sportcoat doesn’t pair with gray pants, you shouldn’t bother buying it. Gray pants are a foundation: they are the first pants you should buy, and probably the second and third, as well.

Truth be told, you will likely need more than one pair of gray pants. Flannel is the best fabric for winter. It’s warmer, and it has been a favorite for decades because it wears and drapes so well. In the summer months, you’ll need something lighter in weight - probably a worsted. If you live somewhere genuinely hot, you should consider a pair in a very light weight wool designed for hot weather, like a fresco.

The matter of styling is up to you. The current style tends toward a slim, flat-front pant. I have a pair of Brunello Cucinelli flannels in this style, and they’re wonderful with a trim coat. I also have a pair of Polo flannels that are notably wider in the leg, with double reverse pleats, for when I’m feeling a little more classic. My worsteds are by Incotex, with some a little wider than the others.

A mid-gray will be most versatile. Darker grays are a little more sober, but a little tougher to pair. Lighter grays are in style at the moment, and can look quite elegant, but are a little less serious-looking. Serious-looking, of course, is a good quality if you’re buying just one pair.

Gray pants are the garment that you’ll go to again and again. It is the rare outfit that features a jacket, but not a suit that wouldn’t look great with a pair of mid-gray pants. Other colors - like khaki or navy blue - should get in line well behind gray. Seriously: at least two, maybe three or four pairs of gray pants before you buy any other color.

(Above pants, in charcoal gray, by Howard Yount)

novh:

Brooks Brothers | Extra-Slim Fit Navy Plaid with Cream Deco Flannel Sport Shirt

Now that’s a beautiful shirt.

(via youdontmeet)

mostexerent:

The man that has a lot to answer for.. Thank you G. Agnelli

Via da-i-net

What’s sad about this picture is how rare it is to find a suit made of real, heavy flannel in stores these days.  This is a man (Gianni Agnelli) wearing three solid colors, but his outfit is beautiful to look at.  The reason is the rich texture of his flannel suit and grendine tie.  And flannel hangs better, too.

I Want To Go To There

The Brooklyn-based Epaulet is bringing this special treat to this weekend’s Pop-Up Flea in New York.  Dang.

Seriously: if anyone is headed out and looking for a Christmas present for Mr. Jesse Thorn of Put This On… these are totally his colors.  Size large.

I repeat: dang.

A red/cream/black version is available on Epaulet’s site at $130.

George from Beijing in a beautiful gray flannel double-breasted suit.  Flannel has a wonderful combination of softness and weight that makes it perfect for men’s suits.  The way it falls and moves are unparalleled.  The suit is bespoke, from Naples.  Look at the lovely shoulders, and the high armholes.  Notice that while the suit is double-breasted, it also has a wonderful shape, with a lovely waist and a slim, height-accentuating form.  And what you can’t see is that George is wearing chocolate brown suede shoes, the perfect accent.

Sheesh.  Can you tell I like this suit?  BECAUSE I DO.