Put This On

Q and Answer: Hem, Cuff or Stack Your Jeans?

Jesse (not me) asks: So since these new Levi’s you posted only come in one length, what do I do with the extra length? Roll it? Have them hemmed? Help!

This one’s a matter of personal taste.

First of all: remember to get the shrink out first.  Even if the jeans are sanforized, they’ll lose a little length, so do your hemming after your soak.

Then, there are three choices: hemming, cuffing, or stacking.

A tailor can hem your jeans for you.  If you happen to live somewhere with a fancy jeans store like Self Edge, they’ll have a chain stitch machine that can hem your jeans industrial-style.  If you don’t live in a major metropolitan area, any tailor or alterationist can use some fancy fabric work to retain the original hem while shortening the inseam.

Some people prefer to cuff their jeans a few inches.  Until the middle of the 20th century, denim wasn’t widely available in varying lengths, so it was often cuffed rather than being hemmed.  We’re fine with this, though you should know that it’s a much bolder choice aesthetically than uncuffed.

You can also “stack” your jeans.  Unlike dress pants, it’s totally fine to wear jeans a little long.  How this looks will depend on how wide the legs of the jeans are (on either extreme it starts to look silly).  Some people are totally for this, some totally against, we try not to worry about it too much.

So: if your preference is neutrality, have them hemmed.  If you feel comfortable looking a bit like a person who might use the phrase, “Hey youse guys!” then cuffing is for you.  Stacking will give you a bit of attitude but a less clean look.

The choice is yours.

It’s On Sale

Levis Vintage Clothing 1947 501s

These are a much slimmer 501 based on the model introduced in 1947.  I got a pair for Christmas, and they’re my every-day jeans.  I personally prefer the higher rise to the low-rise options like the 514.  Only a few sizes are left.

$99.90 (originally $175) at LevisStore.com

Eight Days of Style

Reader Lucy wrote to us to ask that we suggest eight super-basic, affordable Hanukkah gifts for her boyfriend “to replace his stained light-wash jeans and Nine Inch Nails t-shirts.”  We’ll offer one choice for each day the oil burned.

Above: the Levi’s 514 in tumbled rigid.  A simple, dark, well-cut jean that goes for just $30.

It’s On Ebay

Crate “Journal” raw denim jeans.

I bought a pair of these at the Barney’s warehouse sale last spring, and really like them - but be careful, because they fit several inches smaller than the tagged size.  I bought my usual jean size and it was so small I couldn’t get them on.  So check those measurements.  But they’re very nice jeans.

Starting at $49, ends Thursday

Q and Answer

Andrew writes:

I saw your first video, and fell in love with the idea of buying raw denim.  The problem I’m encountering, is I’m not sure how to size them properly.  I’ve seen some manufacturers recommend buying raw denim several inches larger in the waist and several inches longer in the inseam, to allow for shrinkage.  But, if I follow your advice for washing them in cold water only when necessary, I think that will probably minimize the shrinkage, since I’ll be keeping them out of the dryer.  My concern is, that if I follow the manufacturer recommendation and buy them too long, then they’ll never fit properly, unless I wash them traditionally, and wash all the indigo right out of them.

This is important, so let’s break it down.

First of all, some raw denim is Sanforized.  This process, developed in the 1930s, more or less eliminates shrinkage.  So if you’re buying Sanforized denim (it will typically be labeled), you can buy your natural size (perhaps adding one inch in length) and you won’t even need to pre-soak.

The purpose of the soak is to shrink your jeans.  If you’re hoping to achieve maximum contrast in your fading, you want to shrink first, because otherwise, after the first wash, all your stress points will be in different places due to shrinking.  We suggested turning the jeans inside out and not agitating them to keep the dye in place while allowing the warm water and drying to shrink the fabric.

Most non-Sanforized jeans will shrink an inch or two in the waist and two or three inches in the inseam.  Levis usually suggests buying Shrink-to-Fit 501s two inches too big in the waist and three inches too long in the inseam.  However, denim stretches over time, particularly when its wet.  Our recommendation for 501s is to go the usual 2-3” long in the inseam, but go with a waistband size that fits comfortably but isn’t too loose.  Any shrink you get in the waist will stretch out over the first couple of wearings.

If you’re ever concerned that your jeans may shrink too tight, you can always put them on when they’re still a bit moist, and they’ll stretch easily and dry to your exact size.  Just be careful not to sit in any chairs - not only will you transfer dye to the seat, you’ll also stretch out the knees of your jeans and make them puffy.

Of course, jean sizing is an inexact science.  My natural waist is about 37.5”, and I wear a 36 waist in Levis jeans, be they shrink-to-fit or pre-washed.  My APC New Standards were sized a ridiculous 34 - APCs are not only absurdly vanity sized, but also extremely stretch-prone.  Your best bet is to try before you buy and get some advice from a salesman who knows his products.

Also of note: many jeans come sized only by waist.  Unless you’re extremely tall, these will end up being a bit long for you.  Take them to a tailor or alterationist and have them shortened to the appropriate length after you’ve soaked them.  Have the tailor retain the original hem - he won’t be able to match the look on his own.

My mother spent several years as a textile conservator.  It was her job to clean and preserve fabrics of all kinds without damaging them for San Francisco’s The Mexican Museum.

When she saw our segment on denim care, she just about exploded out of her seat to send me an email demanding that we use Orvus Paste Shampoo rather than Woolite Dark, which is what we recommended.  And moms are always right.

Let’s start with this admission: Orvus Paste Shampoo is for horses.  And dogs.  On the plus side, though, it’s apparently “great on manure stains.”

Orvus is used by conservators because it’s completely Ph-neutral and exceedingly gentle, even more so than Woolite or Dr. Bronners or any other product on the market.  It’s also used by quilters to care for delicate quilts - if you’re buying the small jar, you’ll find it at a quilting store, rather than the feed stores where you’ll find the larger jars.

Now, all of this is getting a bit precious, I know.  I’ve used regular laundry detergent to wash my jeans, and it was just fine.  But there’s no doubt that the process is part of the fun of raw denim, and I’m not going to keep you from buying some Orvus, in case of manure stains.

Plus, I’ve got a dog who needs a shampoo from time to time… and a quilt Nee-Naw made that could use a wash.  That’s it, it’s settled.  Orvus Paste Shampoo it is.