Put This On

It’s On Sale: Striped Knit Tie

I was admiring this photo of our friend MistahWong, and it reminded me that A Suitable Wardrobe (one of my favorite online stores) has been carrying a similar tie for a long time. So I went over there to see how much it was again, and lo and behold - it happens to be on sale (click the white on black version). What luck. 

You can check out the rest of A Suitable Wardrobe’s sale items here. 

A dimple is certainly not required when wearing a tie, but I think it usually looks better with than without. Generally speaking, the higher quality the tie, the better the dimple. That’s because the materials used, both for the outer shell and inside lining, will affect how well the tie will curve.

I’ve also found that many times, though not always, a better dimple can be produced using the double four-in-hand knot, like you see here on our friend Mistah Wong. Whether you can use this knot depends on how high your trousers are and how long your tie hangs. You always want both ends of the tie to be no further than three inches or so apart from each other, and for the front blade to end at about the middle of your belt. Obviously, these things don’t have to be exact, but those are the general guidelines, and you may not want to have the tie end at your sternum just for the sake of having a nicer dimple. Unless you’re Bryan Ferry, anyway. 

(Photo above by Most Exerent)

Notice that PG’s trousers sit above his hip bones, and while they’re slim, they’re not as skinny and pegged as the ones you typically see on fashion-conscious men. There are obviously many silhouettes a man can choose from, and few of them are objectively “wrong.” However, I personally find this classically grounded look to be better proportioned and more appealing. 

mostexerent:

Sans jacket..

| Oakley Froggies | bespoke OCBD | MTM P Johnson “Soraro” pantaloons | LeatherSoul Alden shell Cordovan “LongWongs” |

I strongly agree with our friend here, GW. Most trousers these days either sit below or just at your hips. In my opinion, this gives you odd proportions and makes your torso look unnaturally long. It’s much better, I think, to have your trousers come up a few inches higher. 

I don’t necessarily wear my pants at my natural waist, but my waistband seam does sit above my hipbones. This means that the pants themselves come up to my navel. If you think this will make you look geriatric, look at these pictures and ask yourself - does GW look old or just better proportioned? 

Lastly, you should know that according to the Canadian Medical Association Journal, low rise pants can give you medical problems. Consult your doctor before wearing “hipsters.” 

mostexerent:

Yes - I sometimes tuck but always wear my pantaloons at my natural waist not on my hips.

*Hipsters are better for jeans or on women or boys..

Suede Shoes

I’m a huge fan of suede shoes and wear them more or less year-round. The word “suede” comes from the French word “Suède,” which simply means Sweden. At one point, Swedish suede gloves were the most common form of luxury, and the French word for Sweden ended up being used for the leather itself.

Suede can be made from almost any leather. You often find it made from lambskin, goatskin, and calfskin. In Germany they make it from stag and in Louisiana, there’s a producer that makes alligator suede. To get the texture, the animal’s skin is buffed with an abrasive. This can be done to the grain side of the leather, which will give you a finer, more velvety texture, or on the flesh side, which will give you a slightly coarser feel. Each animal will produce a slightly different feel to the suede, however, so the variation isn’t just through top vs. flesh side usage.

I personally prefer finer, velvety suede. To examine the quality, I examine to see if the fibers of the nap are uniform in length and packed tightly together. If the nap is firm, dense, and compact, the suede will be a bit more resilient. I eschew suedes with longer naps, as I find that they get a bit ragged and develop bald spots over time. I also avoid any suede that feels a bit greasy.

Since it’s fall, I suggest that you try suede shoes with wool flannel, corduroy, and moleskin trousers. Those tend to have “softer” looking textures, and I think they look quite well next to suede. The above are just some of the options - oxfords, Norwegian split toe bluchers, chukka boots, field boots, double monks, and tassel loafers. I myself just ordered a pair of Crockett & Jones Belgraves in Polo suede from Pediwear and plan to wear it often on weekends. In being an oxford, this shoe is a bit dressy; in being made from suede, however, it’s also a bit casual. They’re the perfect way to look sharp in a non-business, casual setting, I think.

(Pictures above by MostExerent, Ethan Desu, Leffot, and Run of the Mill)