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It’s On Sale: John Smedley Knitwear

Basic John Smedley v-necks and cardigans are on sale for 60% off right now at StyleGun. Once you discount for European taxes, that puts the v-necks at about $93 and cardigans at $110. Expensive, but these really are very well-made knits. I bought my first John Smedley sweater about seventeen years ago, and it’s held its shape and color beautifully. You can’t say that about many other brands out there. Colors right now include your basic navy, grey, and browns, which don’t go on sale at John Smedley’s website (they only discount seasonal colors). 

The v-neck model on sale is their Bobby, which has somewhat of a small v-neck opening, making the neckline a bit higher. I personally favor this style, but some like the more traditional, lower neckline. It’s designed to wear a bit fitted so that you can wear underneath a sport coat. You can find measurements for it on Mr. Porter’s site, under their “size & fit” tab.

The cardigan is their Bryn model, which is also quite fitted. Unfortunately, Mr. Porter doesn’t have measurements for that, but I would take whatever size you’re in for the Bryn as you would for the Bobby. 

Cool-Wearing Shirt Fabrics for Summer

Warmer temperatures call for open weave shirtings - those lightweight, airy fabrics that allow your skin to breathe and body heat escape. My favorite summer shirting is linen. It’s so gauzy and open that it allows you to feel every gentle breeze passing through, but it’s also quite prone to wrinkling. Personally, I find a lot of charm in that, but it’s not to everyone’s taste. Additionally, depending on the quality of the linen, you may find that new linen can feel a bit rough. You can trust, however, that it will soften considerably over time.

In addition to pure linen, there are all of its variations. Linen-cotton blends, for example, will give you some of the benefits of linen but look less messy. I also recently came across a pure cotton that’s woven to feel and look just like linen. You can find any of these - pure linen, linen-cotton blends, and pure cotton woven to feel like linen - from a variety of makers. Brooks Brothers, J. Crew, and Howard Yount are good starts. Brooks’ shirts are better in their slim to extra-slim fit cuts, depending on your size. For more affordable options, you can check Uniqlo (which you can shop at through Suddenlee) and TM Lewin. For higher-end models, browse the stock at Ledbury, Mr. Porter, and Barney’s. The latter two are holding sales right now, which means you can get particularly nice ones at a more affordable price. 

I’m also a fan of pure-cotton oxford cloth (the stuff used to make OCBDs), but not everyone thinks they’re well suited for summer. For example, Michael Anton, author of The Suit, has written that he thinks they’re too warm for high temperatures. On the other hand, Alex Kabbaz, arguably the best custom shirtmaker in America, has recommended them. Personally, I find that my OCDBs wear cooler than many of my other dress shirts, but you should try wearing some for yourself and seeing how you fare.   

For those who have shirts custom-made, I also recommend cotton-batiste, cotton voile, and chambray. The first two are rather popular in Southern Italy, where the weather can get quite warm, but they have the problem of often being too translucent. Fortunately, A Suitable Wardrobe has some cotton voile shirting that’s very wearable, as well as a very nice, fine chambray. I would heartily recommend either of those if you can afford them. If you’d like to find other sources, check with your shirtmaker. He or she should have some from a variety of makers such as Thomas Mason.

And last, but not least, there’s madras, which we’ve already talked about here.

Of course, being that the world of shirting is wide and varied, it’s best for you to always check for yourself whether a particular fabric is good for hot weather. One trick you can employ is holding the cloth up to the light. If the fabric is lightweight and you see a lot of light passing through, it’s more than likely perfect for summer. 

(Pictured above: Bolts of fine chambray shirting at A Suitable Wardrobe. Photo taken from StyleForum.)

A Few Notable Sales: MyHabit, Brooks Brothers, and Mr. Porter

There are a few notable sales going on today. First, Attolini, De Corato, and Finamore shirts are on sale at MyHabit for one day only. At $149 and up, they’re pretty expensive, At that price, I think you’re better off getting something custom made from a high-end, reputable maker such as Ascot Chang. However, if you have the money and like the fit, this is a good opportunity to get staple shirts such as solid whites and light blues.

Brooks Brothers also started their semi-annual sale today. Items across the board have been discounted up to 40%. I especially like this driving jacket in sand for $179. 

Finally, there’s the Mr. Porter sale, which I wrote about here. Select items have been discounted up to 70%, and they include great deals from brands such as Drake’s, John Smedley, and Ralph Lauren.

For more sales announcements, sign up for our Inside Track. We publish an edition every week on Monday, and they include an eBay roundup, just like the ones we write every Tuesday and Friday, as well as a review of that week’s sales. I think there were twelve announced in today’s edition. 

(Thanks to Cooper for tipping me to the MyHabit sale)

Conservatively Patterned Socks

There’s an old piece of wisdom that says men should match their socks to their trousers. Doing so elongates the leg line, which in turn supposedly makes the man look taller. I’ve never been quite sure of this rule (or the logic). It works fine for navy or charcoal trousers, but matching brown socks to similarly colored pants and shoes seems off to me. I also don’t care for light colored socks, so wheat and mid-grey trousers need a different colored hose. 

In the end, I’ve found that navy socks go with everything. It’s richer than black and complements any color next to it. Thus, most of my socks are a solid navy, with charcoal a close second. I also have a few pairs in odd colors such as dark bottle green and aubergine, which I wear whenever I want a bit of irreverence. Those are never worn to match trousers, of course, though sometimes they complement a secondary color in my tie. 

It can be a bit boring to only have solid colored socks, however, so you can mix in some conservative patterns. This takes a bit more focus in the morning, but can add real character to your ensemble. Time-honored combinations include a two-toned houndstooth with glen plaid flannels, fine herringbone with a chalk striped suiting, or well spaced pin-dot hose with windowpaned wools. The key here is to find a pattern that both complements and contrasts your trousers. If you stick to neutral colors and conservative, traditional patterns, this should be easy. 

Marcoliani and Bresciani makes some of the best patterned socks out there. Marcoliani can be found through Kabbaz & Kelly, Howard Yount, and O’Connell’s. If you’re in the Bay Area, you can also find them at The Hound Clothiers. Bresciani can be bought through A Suitable Wardrobe, Berg & Berg, and Mr. Porter. Both of these brands are expensive, but the construction is top-notch and the patterns are tasteful.

For more affordable options, keep an eye out for Pantherella socks on Sierra Trading Post. They have more synthetic fibers in their composition, which means they’re a bit less breathable and durable, but their patterns are equally tasteful and they can be had for as little as $5 a pair (just wait for the heavy markdowns). Uniqlo also has these dotted socks which you can buy through Suddenlee, but they’re cotton and not over-the-calf. I recommend waiting for the Pantherella sales instead, if you can wait. 

Photo credits: MostExerent, SpooPoker, and Pocket Square Guy.

Quick Sales Round Up

I usually save sales notices for The Inside Track, but the one at Mr. Porter is so amazing right now that I figured most of the good items won’t last until Monday. Thus, I thought I would announce it now, and perhaps mention a few more of note while I’m at it:

• Barneys NYC: Second round of discounts on select items
• Men of Ilk: Code PWQJW9 will save you 10% on your order, including on sale items
• CLAD: Lots of discounts on brands such as Caruso, DS Dundee, and Bill’s Khakis.

(Note: The John Lobbs pictured above aren’t exactly cheap, but they do look amazing. If you browse Mr. Porter’s sale section, there are much more affordable items, however. I swear I’m not just posting about $600 shoes).

House Shoes

Although it’s very much a cultural issue, I prefer having separate shoes for when I’m at home. You can change between shoes at the porch, and doing so will ensure that you don’t track in filth. Indoor shoes can also provide your feet with support and, at the same time, be more comfortable than lace ups.

There are a variety of options. On the more “formal” side, there are Prince Albert slippers, which are typically velvet and have quilted silk linings. The English aristocracy used to wear these when they received people into their homes. They were worn with tuxedos and smoking jackets, but in the past few decades, they’ve migrated to the more casual side of the spectrum. I think they look quite smart with a pair of casual trousers, button up shirt, and a sweater. Black is the most traditional color, but brown, navy, and British racing green work nicely as well. I like them plain, but if you get an emblem, I suggest that it be of something with personal relevance (e.g. your initials, a sport you play, or a school you attended). You can buy such slippers from Brooks Brothers, Stubbs & Wooton, Broadland, Bowhill & Elliot, and Shipton & Heneage. You’ll also find that most major English shoemakers have them for sale.

For more casual options, there are Grecian, mule, and moccasin-styled slippers. These typically come in leather and sometimes have sheepskin lining. I think such slippers look best with a heel cup, but the mule style will be easier to take on and off. Drapers of Glastonbury makes really excellent models, and Pediwear has them for pretty attractive prices. You can also get some handsome ones at Brooks Brothers, Morlands, Jeremy Law, and Mr. Porter.

Some American men may want even more casual options still. For those men, I’d recommend LL Bean, Lands End, and Ralph Lauren. I personally don’t find those styles to be as attractive, but they can look more suitable if you wear jeans or sweatpants at home. You can also check out Muji (both the European and American webshops). They have slippers at extremely affordable prices.

Finally, two additional pairs I think you should consider are the travel and bath slipper. If you travel a lot, a pair of travel slippers can be nice for when you’re at the hotel. They’re also wonderful for long flights since your feet swell during air travel. La Portegna makes some really handsome ones, but as I’ve written before, their shipping is a bit high. I’ve been told, however, that they’re working on expanding their US distribution. The other pair of slippers you may need are terry cotton bath slippers. These should be worn underneath a bathrobe when you’re heading off to the shower. Having a separate pair helps ensure that you don’t stick damp feet into your lounge slippers, which can be bad for both your feet and your shoes. If you buy nice slippers, you might as well make sure they last.

(pictured above: Derek Rose Gower slippers)

My five favorite Cyber Monday deals:

• J Press: 25% off select items
• Mr. Porter: 20-50% off select items
• Shrine Haberdashers: 40% off everything
• CHCM: $400 store credit for $200
• Markowski: Select styles discounted 30-40%

I’ve been rounding up online sales in the last few days for the Inside Track, and I’ve covered about sixty at this point. Above are my five personal favorites. 

Steals & Deals

Mr. Porter has a pretty significant sale going on, with 30-50% off lots of very desirable items. The retail price points on these are generally high to begin with, but it’s also a pretty excellent selection of stuff. For example: the above tie, one of the most basic you can own, is from Drake’s. Half off, at $72.50. There’s even a navy grenadine at half-off, for goodness’ sake.

If I’m not mistaken, I believe this is a Drake’s tie from this season. It’s always easier and safer to go with a dark, conservative pattern, but sometimes a brasher, bolder choice can be much more enjoyable to wear. I think this photo shows how it can be done well and without sacrificing any elegance. 

Barney’s is carrying something similar right now. It’s on already on sale, but if you wait a few weeks, it will be discounted another 30%. Mr. Porter also has some brightly-colored Real Ancient Madders. They just had a 50% off sale for founding members, but I imagine that will be made public soon. 

(photo from ethandesu)

(Source: ethandesu)

Mr. Porter, one of my favorite online stores, just did a second round of reductions in their sale section. There’s some nice stuff by Ralph Lauren, John Smedley, Incotex, and Turnbull & Asser left, though most of the really great stuff got cleared out in their first round of deductions (two Drakes ties for yours truly). Take a browse if you have time. 

(hat tip to Doc Hu for the notice)