Q and Answer: What Size Overcoat Should I Wear?
William asks: If I wear a 38 regular blazer, what size overcoat should I be looking for? 
You should look for your suit and blazer size when buying an overcoat. Manufacturers size with the expectation that you’ll be wearing an overcoat that you’ll be wearing an overcoat over a suit jacket or sport coat. If you wear a size 38 jacket, you’ll want a size 38 overcoat.
If you don’t expect to wear the overcoat on top of another jacket, you may want to consider sizing down one size. And of course you’ll always want to try on or check measurements, as they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. While the vast majority of brands size overcoats by coat size, it’s not universal.
Generally speaking, you’ll want the chest of the overcoat to measure 2” larger than your actual chest size for a snug fit, and 4” or so larger than your actual chest to fit over a suit jacket.

Q and Answer: What Size Overcoat Should I Wear?

William asks: If I wear a 38 regular blazer, what size overcoat should I be looking for?

You should look for your suit and blazer size when buying an overcoat. Manufacturers size with the expectation that you’ll be wearing an overcoat that you’ll be wearing an overcoat over a suit jacket or sport coat. If you wear a size 38 jacket, you’ll want a size 38 overcoat.

If you don’t expect to wear the overcoat on top of another jacket, you may want to consider sizing down one size. And of course you’ll always want to try on or check measurements, as they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. While the vast majority of brands size overcoats by coat size, it’s not universal.

Generally speaking, you’ll want the chest of the overcoat to measure 2” larger than your actual chest size for a snug fit, and 4” or so larger than your actual chest to fit over a suit jacket.

I have to admit I’m jealous of Will from A Suitable Wardrobe’s new overcoat. It’s absolutely stunning.
I live in Los Angeles, with no need for an overcoat unless I’m traveling. I do have two coats - a Chesterfield I bought at Bobby From Boston while attending a winter, black-tie wedding and a gorgeous navy polo coat from Capper & Capper, a celebrated but long-departed Detroit clothier. They spend most of their time, though, in a zipped-up covered clothes rack in my shed, along with my evening clothes and some out-of-season suits and sportcoats.
Will has all his clothes made for him, and this beautiful jacket likely cost him a pretty penny. If you have the budget, I would never begrudge such a thing, but overcoats are the one item of clothing I’d most suggest buying second-hand.
They really hit all the sweet spots for thrift or eBay shopping. They’re prohibitively expensive new - a good overcoat usually has a four-digit price tag. A number of classic styles will always be fashionable - Will’s coat above, for example, could have been made in 1945, 1965 or 1995 as well as today. Most of all, they’re durable, so it’s entirely possible to find an older coat in good condition.
If you’re a regular thrifter, you’ve probably run across a coat you love already. If you’re not, take a look at eBay. As long as you’re careful of edge wear - ask about it, it’s tough to see in pictures - and moth holes, there’s plenty of good stuff available. Shipping will likely cost you $30 or $40, but there are plenty of deals to be had for as little as $30 or $40. My own coats, both of exceptional quality, and both in exceptional condition, each cost less than $100, all-in.

I have to admit I’m jealous of Will from A Suitable Wardrobe’s new overcoat. It’s absolutely stunning.

I live in Los Angeles, with no need for an overcoat unless I’m traveling. I do have two coats - a Chesterfield I bought at Bobby From Boston while attending a winter, black-tie wedding and a gorgeous navy polo coat from Capper & Capper, a celebrated but long-departed Detroit clothier. They spend most of their time, though, in a zipped-up covered clothes rack in my shed, along with my evening clothes and some out-of-season suits and sportcoats.

Will has all his clothes made for him, and this beautiful jacket likely cost him a pretty penny. If you have the budget, I would never begrudge such a thing, but overcoats are the one item of clothing I’d most suggest buying second-hand.

They really hit all the sweet spots for thrift or eBay shopping. They’re prohibitively expensive new - a good overcoat usually has a four-digit price tag. A number of classic styles will always be fashionable - Will’s coat above, for example, could have been made in 1945, 1965 or 1995 as well as today. Most of all, they’re durable, so it’s entirely possible to find an older coat in good condition.

If you’re a regular thrifter, you’ve probably run across a coat you love already. If you’re not, take a look at eBay. As long as you’re careful of edge wear - ask about it, it’s tough to see in pictures - and moth holes, there’s plenty of good stuff available. Shipping will likely cost you $30 or $40, but there are plenty of deals to be had for as little as $30 or $40. My own coats, both of exceptional quality, and both in exceptional condition, each cost less than $100, all-in.

The covert coat at Men’s Flair
It’s On eBay
Gieves & Hawkes Greatcoat
Speaking of RJMan, here’s a Gieves & Hawkes coat he found on the Bay, dated 1953. The seller only ships to the UK, but I bet if you emailed he might be amenable to international shipping. 
Buy It Now for

It’s On eBay

Gieves & Hawkes Greatcoat

Speaking of RJMan, here’s a Gieves & Hawkes coat he found on the Bay, dated 1953. The seller only ships to the UK, but I bet if you emailed he might be amenable to international shipping.

Buy It Now for

It’s On eBay
Hermes Overcoat (58 Euro)
This is serious. Vicuña overcoat, made from the extra-fine hair of the extra-rare vicuña. The ultimate luxury garment, right? Wrong. It’s not the ultimate luxury garment until you give said overcoat a full mink lining.
I don’t know whether to barf or cry. I may cry barf.
Buy It Now for $25,000

It’s On eBay

Hermes Overcoat (58 Euro)

This is serious. Vicuña overcoat, made from the extra-fine hair of the extra-rare vicuña. The ultimate luxury garment, right? Wrong. It’s not the ultimate luxury garment until you give said overcoat a full mink lining.

I don’t know whether to barf or cry. I may cry barf.

Buy It Now for $25,000

thisfits:

A bespoke Polo in London

It’s time for Michael Alden to do a Jake Davis Test Shot. Amirite?

Speaking of polo jackets, here’s a spectacular one from Michael Alden, the dean of the bespoke clothing forum The London Lounge.

It’s On eBay
Vintage Great Coat (40L)
Starts at 99p ($1.54), ends Tuesday

It’s On eBay

Vintage Great Coat (40L)

Starts at 99p ($1.54), ends Tuesday

I love this picture of Alan from the Heart of America, demonstrating some wonderful cold-weather style.
The coat’s a polo coat - double breasted, usually made of camel hair, with big patch pockets. Relatively tough to find these days, but you couldn’t find a more classic piece of outerwear. Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers often offer them, and you can certainly find them on eBay. I have one for winter travel - it’s by Capper & Capper of Chicago, which was owned by Abercrombie & Fitch. It weights a hundred thousand pounds and is warm and comfortable as heck.
Alan’s also wearing his hat quite well. As I’ve written here before, it’s much easier to wear a hat in weather that demands it without looking like a historical re-enactor.

I love this picture of Alan from the Heart of America, demonstrating some wonderful cold-weather style.

The coat’s a polo coat - double breasted, usually made of camel hair, with big patch pockets. Relatively tough to find these days, but you couldn’t find a more classic piece of outerwear. Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers often offer them, and you can certainly find them on eBay. I have one for winter travel - it’s by Capper & Capper of Chicago, which was owned by Abercrombie & Fitch. It weights a hundred thousand pounds and is warm and comfortable as heck.

Alan’s also wearing his hat quite well. As I’ve written here before, it’s much easier to wear a hat in weather that demands it without looking like a historical re-enactor.

It’s On eBay
Sulka Wool-Cashmere Overcoat
Along with tuxedos, overcoats are one of the things that you should always buy second-hand.  Their weight means they last forever, and their styles are largely timeless.  
Starts at $1.39, ends Sunday

It’s On eBay

Sulka Wool-Cashmere Overcoat

Along with tuxedos, overcoats are one of the things that you should always buy second-hand.  Their weight means they last forever, and their styles are largely timeless. 

Starts at $1.39, ends Sunday