Put This On

Three Types of Chinos

Khaki chinos are not, as they say, just khaki chinos. Though they’re always casual, they come in different flavors of informality, and it’s good to be sensitive to these differences when you’re choosing the right pair to wear for the day.

I think of chinos as being of three varieties. The first is your standard casual pair, which is what you most commonly find in shopping malls. These are distinguished by visible stitching on the inseams and outseams (the seams going up and down both sides of your legs). They’re also often made from cheaper materials, sit lower on your hips, and sometimes feature some kind of “wash” or “distressing.” That means they look a bit more beaten up – faded around the lap and slightly frayed along the pockets and leg openings. These, in my opinion, are best worn with casual shirts, such as those made from a rougher cloth (e.g. oxford) or feature bold patterns (e.g. bright madras, plaid flannels). They’re also fine with things such as t-shirts, polos, cardigans, and sneakers. If the length of your shirt permits, you can wear it untucked. They’re less optimal, however, with dressier shirts – such as shirts made from smooth poplin, have no chest pocket, and feature French fronts. Those would be too dressy for this kind of pants.  

Your second type is the workwear variety, which differ from the first category in their material and fit. Workwear chinos are made from tougher twill cottons and allowed to fit differently. Whereas traditional men’s pants should fit in a certain way, workwear chinos can have a bit more rumple in the leg line and seat (though they don’t necessarily have to). In short, these should feel and look a bit rougher. They are, after all, supposed to express a certain workwear sensibility. Such chinos can be worn with chambray shirts, plaid flannels, rugged outerwear, and heavy boots. In a way, some of the things you can wear here aren’t too different than what you can wear with standard casual chinos, but the effects will be different. A chambray shirt worn with RRL Officer Chinos or Left Field’s, for example, will look very different than if it’s paired with something from J Crew.   

Finally, the last type is what I’d call “dress chinos.” As oxymoronic as that sounds, dress chinos are distinguished by hidden stitching along the inseams and outseams. They sit higher on the hips, are made from nicer materials, and are generally made to much higher quality standards. They also typically come “unfinished,” meaning the lengths aren’t pre-hemmed. These are arguably the most versatile. They can be worn with casual shirts such as oxford cloth button-downs or proper dress shirts; long sleeve polos or cardigans; traditional sweaters of almost any variety; and even sport coats and ties. They shouldn’t be worn, however, with cheap, beat-up t-shirts or rugged outerwear, such as motorcycle jackets.

The photos above demonstrate good uses of chinos. Something like this, on the other hand, is a bit too incongruous, at least to my eye. It would be better, in my opinion, if the gentleman had worn dress chinos, a pale blue shirt, and some brown calf derbys. Or he could have ditched the double-breasted and tie, and picked a more casual shirt to wear with his very-casual chinos and suede chukkas. As is, the look is too formal up top and too informal down bottom. To be sure, clashing formal and informal things can make a very fashionable statement, but if one wanted to dress more harmoniously and less conspicuously, it would be good to be sensitive to the different kinds of sensibilities garments have, and then pair them accordingly. For chinos, that would be standard casual, workwear, and dress. 

Green Corduroys for Fall

I’m personally not one for unusual trousers. Some men can pull off loud colors and vivid patterns with aplomb, but they’re few and far between, and I’m not one of them. The one exception I make, however, are green corduroys in the fall.

If you’re just getting your first pair of corduroys, I recommend ones in a dark shade of russet brown. These can be successfully worn with almost any kind of autumnal clothing you can imagine – grey shawl collar cardigans, green waxed cotton Barbour jackets, navy flannel shirts, and brown suede shoes. They’ll be soft, comfortable, and a touch warm.

If you’re getting your second pair, I recommend wheat. Anything that resembles something like the muted color on your standard pair of chinos to ones that are just a touch more golden. If you hit the right shade, and be sure not to veer into something too yellow, these should be about as easy to wear as your dark brown pair.

Once you’re on your third, however, I suggest considering green - something like British racing green or olive. These are slightly more daring colors, but still feel reasonably conservative. Like dark brown and wheat, green is an earthy color that feels very seasonally appropriate in the fall. I wear mine with navy or grey sweaters, the kind with a very heavy texture such as Shetland or lambswool, or with a gun club sport coat, pale blue oxford cloth shirt, and brown slip on shoes, like you see above.

If you’ve never bought corduroys before, take care in paying attention to the size of the wales. These are the ribs that make up the fabric’s signature texture. Something with thicker, more widely spaced, plush wales will look a bit more old-fashioned; something very fine will look close to velvet. A mid-sized wale is a safe bet, though I don’t think there’s anything wrong with wide wales either. Those will look quite comfortable and traditional, and if you don’t wear them in an overly baggy cut, they won’t look too frumpy. My green corduroys are somewhat wide waled, actually, and cut on the fuller side of slim. Corduroys are of course a country garment, but in green I think they’re especially rustic. Country clothes, in my opinion, always look better when they’re cut slightly fuller than city clothes. 

You can pick up decent corduroys at any number of places. Cordings, Pakeman, and Hoggs of Fife have very nice traditionally cut models, while Epaulet’s and Howard Yount’s will run slim. There’s also Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers, who will have different models for different fits. The upside to them is that you’re more likely to live near one of their stores, so you can check out their products in person. However, I’ve also found that the other suppliers are happy to give you measurements if you enquire. 

(As an aside, if you haven’t read Jesse’s address to the Corduroy Appreciation Club, you really ought to read it. It stands out in my mind as one of the funniest clothing-related things I’ve ever come across. Corduroy Now, Corduroy Forever!) 

This photo offers a nice comparison of two trouser silhouettes. Luciano Barbera on the right is wearing something a bit fuller with a less aggressive taper, while the gentleman on the left is wearing something slimmer with a narrower leg opening. Which you should wear is probably dependent on all sorts of things - the silhouette of your jacket, the shape of your shoes, your age, your build, and your own sense of personal style. As I get older, however, I find myself drifting much closer towards what Luciano Barbera is wearing: a higher rise, fuller leg, and less aggressive taper. It just looks more comfortable and elegant to my eye. 

Q and Answer: What Can I Wear With A Black Blazer?

Sam writes: So I recently made a cardinal sin and bought an item, rather than an outfit. I saw on eBay a beautiful Ralph Lauren Purple Label Black Cashmere double breasted jacket, for a steal, which I grabbed. (It was from your eBay round up from last week.)

It was my first eBay purchase and after trying it on, it fits me perfectly. But - I have no idea what kind of clothes to match it with. Can you give me any suggestions?

You’re in a tough spot. Black is a deceptively difficult color to match. One’s inclination is to believe that it matches anything, but the truth is that in practical menswear terms, it matches very little. As you can see on the gentleman above, it tends to wash out the faces of most men whose coloration isn’t very high contrast (meaning very dark hair and very fair skin), and it tends to look less than classy under natural light. It’s a nice color for the evening, but in blazer form, it’s still tough to fit into the wardrobe.

Before I get into specific advice, though, I’d urge you to reconsider the idea that you should buy outfits rather than pieces. Instead, focus on building a library of versatile basics. If you have gray flannel trousers, a blue blazer, black and brown shoes, solid white and blue shirts, simple navy ties and so on, you’ll be able to incorporate more unusual pieces into your wardrobe easily. If you don’t, you’ll be forced to have a much larger (and more expensive) wardrobe, as the pieces won’t play well with each other.

In the case of this particular jacket, I’d start by changing the buttons to something a little more contrasting. Smoky gray mother-of-pearl would be perfect if you don’t like the metal-buttons look. If you don’t live somewhere with a great sewing and fabric store, you can try ordering them online from a source like Hwa Seng Textiles, which I’ve used in the past. You can also get super crafty and cut them off of a thrifted or eBayed high-end coat that’s selling for cheap because of damage. The blazer buttons’ contrast will clarify that this is an odd jacket and not half of a suit.

Then, you’ve really got two choices for pants: gray dress trousers or dark denim. For this particular piece, I think dark denim might be an odd fit, since the styling is so formal, but if you can pull off that part, you’ll be OK. With jeans, a white shirt and black Chelsea boots, you’d be suited for a casual-ish evening out.

Gray pants, and particularly gray flannels, will probably suit this coat best, though. Again, because the coat’s black, you’ll probably be wearing it mostly at night, and a pairing with gray flannels and simple black dress shoes will get you through a nice dinner out or an evening at the theater - the sorts of things that call for an outfit that’s considered and has some elements of formality but isn’t strictly formal.

Boys Becoming Men, Men Becoming Wolves, Pants Becoming Shorts

If you’re having a hard time finding just the right shorts for this summer’s hottest days, remember: shorts are generally just pants with shorter legs. You can transform pants into shorts pretty simply, for about ten bucks.

1. First, pick the pants. You can use pants that aren’t the right length or have a stain below the knee for maximum efficiency, or you can just pick something that fits right around the waist and thigh but isn’t available in shorts form.
2. Then, cut them off (regular scissors are fine) two inches or so below thelowest point you think you might want them “shortsified.” At the bottom of your knee should work.
3. With pins (safety or straight), pin them to the inseam length you like by folding the excess fabric under. We made the first cut and use pins so that it’s easy to play around and see what looks best.
4. Once you’ve got them pinned, take them to your tailor or alterationist, and ask him to hem them at that point. A plain hem should cost you about ten or twelve bucks. If you prefer a cuff - which is a trendy on shorts that are a bit less casual - that’ll cost a bit more, and you should make sure to have a couple extra inches of fabric. For a cuff, you’ll need a little more than double the length of the cuff (like 5” for a 2” cuff.)

Suddenly, as if by magic, your pants have become shorts.

(Illustration via StyleGirlfriend - who advocates shorter shorts if you’ve got the legs.)

StyleForum member maomao demonstrates how great high-waisted trousers with pleats can look on a slim build. Style is obviously a matter of taste, but I find this cut to be much more masculine, classic, and elegant than the low-waisted, tight-fitting pants that many men wear today. The torso is in proportion to the legs, the legs don’t look like stilts, and the longer leg line looks striking. Well done!

Worsted vs. Woolen Flannels

I love wool flannel, especially when it’s made into trousers. It never looks too slick or pushy, and even when it’s patterned, the soft and fuzzy surface can make the pattern a bit more muted so that it’s never distasteful. In its most classic form, solid mid-grey, it also gives a strong sense of tradition and refinement. 

In addition to looking sharp, it’s also incredibly comfortable. In fact, some may find it curious to know that flannel was originally used for underwear. It wasn’t until the mid-19th century that men and women started using it for outer garments and suits. You can find flannel undergarments mentioned in English novels, such as Jane Austen’s Sense and Sensibility. 

The problem with it, however, is that it often doesn’t wear that well, at least when compared to other wool fabrics. If you put them to work day in, day out, they can develop a sheen relatively quickly, especially around the seat. 

The trick is to buy worsted flannels and not woolens. Worsted and woolens, as you may know, are the two major classes of wool fabrics. Worsteds are made from tightly woven long strands of combed-out wool, while woolens are typically made from shorter ones. The difference between the two is that worsteds are smoother in texture and appearance, and feel bit crisper in the hand. Woolens, on the other hand, are generally softer and spongier, and feel a bit loftier. To give examples, gabardine and twill tend to be worsted, and tweed tends to be woolen. 

Flannel can come in both forms. If you buy worsted flannel, it will feel less lofty, but it will also wear much harder. You can tell which is which by taking a very close look at the fabric. Worsteds generally are made with a twill weave, which means if you look closely, you’ll see diagonal lines, much like you see on jeans, underneath the fuzzy nap surface. Woolens, on the other hand, won’t have a twill weave, or any one that has a regular pattern for that matter, and will generally look a bit more mottled. 

If you can afford woolen flannels, however, you should just go with that. It tends to drape better, feel softer, and just be all around much more interesting. The depth and color variation you see in it far surpasses worsteds, but all this is, of course, at the sacrifice of durability. 

Talking to The Armoury About Trousers

I recently talked to Mark Cho and Ethan Desu, two of the three men who run The Armoury, about one of my favorite men’s style topics: trousers. Both Mark and Ethan style and fit men of different builds for a living, so I thought it would be worthwhile to ask them what they think flatters men the most. We talked about three aspects: the height of the rise, style of the fronts, and fullness of the legs.

For the height of the rise, Mark has found that almost all men (with the exception of those who are lanky) look better in a high waist. By “high waist” he means something that either sits at, or just below, the belly button. “We deal with many Asian men who often have longer torsos and shorter legs,” Mark noted. “A high-waisted trouser does wonders for them. It is pretty rare that we recommend a low-waisted trouser, but often customers will prefer it for fashion reasons.”

As for the style of the fronts, a man can choose either flat fronts or pleats. Which is best depends on his overall size, total height, and proportions above and below the belt, as well as the thickness of his legs, shape of his stomach, and size of his posterior. Depending on these configurations, pleats can serve a number of purposes. They can break up an otherwise flat expanse of fabric at the front of the trouser, add comfort, and put a bit of fullness around and in front of the thighs. A corpulent man, for example, may need a fuller leg, and pleats would not only give him some room, but also visually break up the flat, empty cloth at the front of his body. 

In general, Mark recommends a flat front or single pleat for men with flat seats, and flat fronts, single pleats, or even double pleats for those with rounder ones. As the number of pleats increases, the fullness of the legs should also increase in order to maintain a balance.

At the same time, Ethan added, fit is everything. He’s a slightly bigger guy with big legs and a big seat, but a reasonably flat stomach. He wears everything from flat fronts to single- or double-forward pleats, as well as single- or double-reverse pleats. He finds that they all have their advantages. “If trousers are well fitted,” he said, “all styles can look good. Anything that doesn’t probably has more to do with the fit than style.” 

Finally, as to how full the trousers’ legs may be, the gentlemen at The Armoury are fairly open to any size, as long it makes sense. While they dislike tight trousers, they find that a nicely tapered leg with no break can work on the right frame, and a full leg can be good as well. It just has to make sense on the person. They personally prefer something with a bit of shape in the leg rather than something that is narrow and goes straight down. That means a small curvature in the taper, and a nice cinch to the waist above the buttocks.

These days, as I near my mid-30s, I like my trousers to have a high-waist, very slight taper, one break, and slim, but somewhat full legs. Luciano Barbera and Ethan Desu, pictured above, illustrate this style well. I find that anything narrower and lower-waisted exaggerates the size of my feet, length of my torso, and width of my hips. Of course, this is just what I’ve been finding works well for my build. In choosing something for yourself, I recommend you refer to the more generalized guidelines above and remember to pay attention to proportions, as well as what flatters. 

(Photos by The Sartorialist and Ethan Desu)

Q and Answer: What’s that little loop above my trouser fly for?

Andrew asks: A recent post, Spotted: Incotex at Daffy’s, mentioned a “belt prong loop above the fly”. What is this for?

This one’s easy.

Incotex is one of a few makers who add this useful touch to their trousers. When you’re putting on your belt, you pass the buckle’s prong through this very small loop. This keeps the belt centered on your waistband. Since the base of the buckle is covered by the end of the belt, the loop isn’t visible when the belt is worn.