Put This On

Conservatively Patterned Socks

There’s an old piece of wisdom that says men should match their socks to their trousers. Doing so elongates the leg line, which in turn supposedly makes the man look taller. I’ve never been quite sure of this rule (or the logic). It works fine for navy or charcoal trousers, but matching brown socks to similarly colored pants and shoes seems off to me. I also don’t care for light colored socks, so wheat and mid-grey trousers need a different colored hose. 

In the end, I’ve found that navy socks go with everything. It’s richer than black and complements any color next to it. Thus, most of my socks are a solid navy, with charcoal a close second. I also have a few pairs in odd colors such as dark bottle green and aubergine, which I wear whenever I want a bit of irreverence. Those are never worn to match trousers, of course, though sometimes they complement a secondary color in my tie. 

It can be a bit boring to only have solid colored socks, however, so you can mix in some conservative patterns. This takes a bit more focus in the morning, but can add real character to your ensemble. Time-honored combinations include a two-toned houndstooth with glen plaid flannels, fine herringbone with a chalk striped suiting, or well spaced pin-dot hose with windowpaned wools. The key here is to find a pattern that both complements and contrasts your trousers. If you stick to neutral colors and conservative, traditional patterns, this should be easy. 

Marcoliani and Bresciani makes some of the best patterned socks out there. Marcoliani can be found through Kabbaz & Kelly, Howard Yount, and O’Connell’s. If you’re in the Bay Area, you can also find them at The Hound Clothiers. Bresciani can be bought through A Suitable Wardrobe, Berg & Berg, and Mr. Porter. Both of these brands are expensive, but the construction is top-notch and the patterns are tasteful.

For more affordable options, keep an eye out for Pantherella socks on Sierra Trading Post. They have more synthetic fibers in their composition, which means they’re a bit less breathable and durable, but their patterns are equally tasteful and they can be had for as little as $5 a pair (just wait for the heavy markdowns). Uniqlo also has these dotted socks which you can buy through Suddenlee, but they’re cotton and not over-the-calf. I recommend waiting for the Pantherella sales instead, if you can wait. 

Photo credits: MostExerent, SpooPoker, and Pocket Square Guy.

The late Duke of Windsor relaxing with a cigarette, his dog, and the knowledge that he is engaging in perhaps the most audacious exercise in pattern-matching ever undertaken.

(via Leisure Class)

This outrageous combination is pretty much textbook pattern mixing.  Notice that in the three elements of this outfit (suit, shirt, tie) each part varies - the type (plaid, stripe, graphic), color (tan, blue, red) and scale (small, medium, large).  The essential rule of pattern mixing is not to put like with like, but rather to mix unlike but complementary elements.  The only close call here is the vertical stripes and the vertical element of the plaid, but color makes up for that.

Would I wear this combo?  Probably not.  I’d have grabbed a solid shirt.  But is this reasonably successful?  Yes.

(photo via)

Some things to note about a lovely outfit from Andrew in Atlanta:

• The weight of the trousers (and their sizable cuffs) is consonant with the blanket-weight coat and its large, bold pattern.
• Similarly, heavy wingtips stand up to the weight of the pants and their cuffs.
• The tie pattern is different enough from the coat pattern (and simple enough) that they do not compete for attention.
• The square adds a bit more color without being demanding (or matching the tie).
• The coat, despite its weight, has a lovely shape without being tight.  Note the graceful waist suppression.

This is what fall should look like.