Put This On

Dealing with Bad Weather

Every year starts off with a few months of bad weather. First there is snow, then the snow turns to slush, and finally the slush gives way to showers. Depending on where you live, these conditions can put a real beating on your clothes, so it’s good to know how to best take care of them.

Salt Stains on Shoes

The best care is preventative. There are a number of treatments that can give your shoes a superficial layer of protection. Use a thin layer of wax polish on calf leather dress shoes and mink oil lotion on work or hiking boots (you can buy both at most shoe repair shops). Note that you don’t want to use mink oil on dress shoes; if you do, your shoes will never take a proper shine.

For added protection, use a pair of overshoes. Swims makes an attractive flocked version that slips on easily, while Tingley makes a very affordable (albeit less attractive) model. You can read Jesse’s review of Tingley here.

If you’ve picked up salt stains despite these measures, however, you need to treat them as soon as you get home. Mix one part vinegar to two parts water (or half and half for more serious stains). Brush off your shoes with a horsehair brush to remove any dirt, then dab a soft towel in the solution and gently use it to wipe off the stain. Once you’re done, use a clean damp towel to wipe off any vinegar residue. Leave it to dry for 30 minutes and repeat as needed. You want to work through this slowly, patiently, and gently; rubbing too hard can also damage your shoes. Once you’ve gotten the stain out, apply leather conditioner, polish, and wax again so that they’re protected next time you use them.

If the salt has raised the leather on your shoes (ie given it a welt), use a bottom end of a spoon and press down on the leather.

Drenched Shoes

If you’ve been going through a downpour, your shoes are probably soaked through. Again, the best care is preventative, so follow the steps above. You can also spray a suede protectant on suede. Suede should be fine in the rain, though I wouldn’t advise using it in the snow.

Once you get home, stuff your shoes with newspaper and lay them on their side (as the soles need to dry the most). You may want to change the paper every few hours just to make it effective. After they’re dry, stick unvarnished cedar shoe trees in them and leave them alone for two days so they can fully recover. Resist any temptation to set them near a heater. Doing so will only dry out and crack the leather.

Mold

If wet clothes or umbrellas aren’t allowed to dry properly, they’re at risk of developing mold. Once mold grows, they can develop a smell that can be very, very difficult to get out.

To prevent this, brush off your jackets or coats with a clothes brush once you get home. I use a separate brush for this from the one I regularly use to clean my clothes. Once the snow or water has been brushed off, hang your garment on a sturdy wooden hanger (ideally with wide shoulders) and leave it in an area with good air circulation.

For umbrellas, gently shake them out a bit, but be careful not to ruin the ribs. Once you’ve gotten most of the snow or water off, leave them completely open and let them dry in a place with good air circulation. Again, don’t set them near heaters, however, as you risk damaging the canopy. Most umbrellas are made with materials that are designed to dry quickly, so this shouldn’t take too long. Once it’s dry, neatly furl the umbrella and store it away.

We Got It For Free: Tingley Executive Overshoes

The folks at BeltOutlet.com asked if there were any of their products we’d like to review, so I asked for a pair of Tingley overshoes. Since I work from home, I rarely have to commute in foul weather while wearing dress shoes, but I know this is a persistent problem for many of our readers.

Overshoes were a popular product back when men uniformly wore real shoes to work. These days, they’re more of a niche product, appealing to a small group of people: those who are professional enough to wear dress shoes, but also work somewhere urban enough that walking outdoors is part of their regular routine.

So: on the the Tingleys. They’re not as ugly as I thought they would be. I mean, they’re ugly, don’t get me wrong, but in the context of a business suit, they’re suprisingly unobtrusive. I also found them pretty easy to get on, even over the clunky Brooks Brothers white bucks I’m wearing today. That said: in a non-black-shoe context, they’d stick out like a sore thumb.

The most attractive option in the category is Swims, which are a bit sleeker, have a flocked lining, and come in a variety of interesting colors. They’re a valiant attempt at making overshoes almost attractive. Swims, though, retail at about a hundred dollars, compared to just $35 for Tingley’s boot model, and $25 for their lower-cut option.

Ultimately, I think the Tingleys are a practical solution to a practical problem. With a business suit and a trench, they’ll look like a man trying to reach his destination dry. Dignified, but not exactly dashing.

mostexerent:

Slippery & wet surface..

Time to SWIM!

I’m telling ya kids: overshoes.  Class.

Shoes When The Weather Outside is Frightful

One of our most frequently received questions (three times just this week) is: “what shoes should I wear when it’s raining/snowing/shitty outside?”

We argue for a policy of proportional response - the level of your action should be directly proportional to the shittiness of the weather.

Code Yellow: Wet Streets

Shoes with rubber soles (or a rubber sole protector over a leather sole) will wear better in wet conditions.  You should have at least one pair of shoes that either has a rubber layer on its sole (many good shoe manufacturers offer Dainite soles, which are long-lasting and very low profile) or a Topy (or equivalent) layer.  The Topy, if you don’t know, is a thin layer of hard rubber that’s glued to your sole to increase its life and traction.  If your shoe is on the ground, it’s unlikely that either of these will be noticed.  With a slightly more casual outfit, you can probably get away with “commando” soles, which are slightly lugged.  I’d still strongly suggest against full rubber soles on dress shoes - blech.

Code Orange: Rain or Slight Snowiness

Depending on how far you have to walk, the above may still work in this situation, when paired with an umbrella.  Shell Cordovan is particularly resistant to wetness, as long as it’s allowed to dry after wear.  Still, you may need to bring in bigger guns.  In that case, I recommend overshoes like Swims or Tingleys.  These galoshes will go over your shoes (and in some cases ankles, as well), preventing them from getting wet.  Tingleys can be had for as little as $15, depending on the model. Swims are a bit more expensive but are also lined and a little more attractive.  Both will do the job.

Code Red: Heavy Rain or Snow

There should be no shame in wearing shoes that are appropriate to the season.  If you live somewhere cold enough to merit cold-weather footwear, then wear cold-weather footwear.  If you work in a business-clothing environment, bring a pair of shoes in your bag or leave one at work. 

When it’s raining heavily in Los Angeles, I break out my LL Bean Boots, which have served me quite well.  They’re very reasonably priced (less than a hundred dollars) and come in a variety of heights and levels of insulation.  Obviously, as a resident of Southern California, mine are unlined, but with a Thinsulate lining I’m told they’re quite warm.

Last year I took my first “snow trip” in years, to the Sundance Film Festival in Utah.  The heavens were dumping snow all over us pretty much continuously during our four-day visit.  Luckily, the kind folks at Sorel had offered me a review model, and after perusing their catalog, I settled on their classic model, the Caribou.  Frankly, most snow shoes are ugly (the Sorel catalog was no exception), but the Caribou is highly funtional and quite handsome.  They’re also pretty reasonably priced - just north of a hundred bucks.

I’m also a big fan of Wellingtons.  If you are too, you should just go ahead and get Hunters.  If you’re into them, you already know that you’ll look a little ridiculous, but in kind of an awesome way.  So I won’t really recommend them, because if you’re not sure, it’s definitely a no.  But know that if you do go with some pig-slop, English mud type boots, I’ve got your back.

(Photo by Peter Nettleton)

Q and Answer: How Should I Dress in the Rain?

Steve writes: I live in Vancouver; can you suggest how I should dress for the rain?

The answer is yes.  We can suggest how you should dress in the rain.

You’ll want to start with an umbrella.  I really love the ones at Howard Yount, which are lovely, with solid wood handles and beautiful hand-sewn canopies.  They also cost $165.  If that’s out of your range, there are plenty of other options, just go with something simple.  There are usually good choices at a luggage shop.

On your head, you can wear a hat.  A wool flat cap is a great choice.  If you’re going to wear a proper hat with a brim, this is a good time to do it, especially if it’s not too blustery.

You’ll want some kind of covering for your body, of course.  A classic trench coat or Mackintosh is a good option here for pairing with more formal clothes.  Khaki is the traditional color.  There are plenty of choices for more casual wear - I like waxed cotton, and own a Barbour Beaufort, which I bought on UK eBay for about a hundred dollars.  A number of companies also make lightweight, packable rain coats, which are very useful for climates like Vancouver where rain and cold do not always go hand in hand. 

For your shoes, you’ll want to avoid leather soles.  When leather soles get wet, they wear much faster.  Shoes with rubber or dainite soles are best.  Alternately, you can wear rain-specific shoes like Bean Boots and switch them when you get where you’re going, or cover your dress shoes with galoshes.

da-i-net:

SWIMS

A lot of folks email me to ask what to do when circumstances demand dress shoes, but weather demands rain shoes.  Galoshes, like these Swims, are a great solution.

Q and Answer: Shoes in the Rain

Andrew writes:  Here is my problem: Corporate casual dress code.  Leather soled shoes.  Rain.  What is a good choice to prevent the ruination of good shoes?  Rubber soles?  If so, what are good ones?

Well, we’re pretty ambivalent about rubber-soled dress shoes generally.  It can be done well, but it often isn’t.  For that reason, we’re hesitant to steer you in that direction.

If you have dress shoes you like, you can buy a pair of Swims or Tingley’s overshoes.  These slip over your dress shoes, protecting them from the rain.  We live in Los Angeles, so we don’t have much use for them, but we kind of want a pair because they’re really neat.  Swims have the added benefit of being lined, so they won’t dull the finish of your shoes.

Many folks also simply wear rain shoes to and from work, which we’re not opposed to, either.  You can either lug your good shoes with you, or leave a pair in your desk during rainy weeks.  When it rains outside, I get so excited that I get to wear my duck boots that it’s a non-issue.

It’s On Ebay

Vintage Rubber Overshoes

You don’t need vintage overshoes (and these ones are a bit steep, neat though they are), but if you live somewhere wet or snowy, overshoes are an excellent way to protect your good shoes from the bad elements.  We live in Los Angeles, but are lead to believe that Swims are the creme de la creme in this department.

Starting at $49, ends Tuesday