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Three Mid-Season Sales

A few mid-season sales worth mentioning:

The first is at Ralph Lauren, who’s having a “private sale” event with discounts of up to 40% off. If you shop before May 2nd, when the sale goes public, you can also get an extra 15% off at checkout. I particularly like the dark brown loafers you see above, which come in at about $300 after discounts. 

The second is at TM Lewin, who is having a “five shirts for $160” promotion (thus putting shirts at $32 a piece). I recommend their slim fit. It’s neither skinny nor full, and it’s tough to find a better shirt at that price point. This is a great option if you’re on a budget, especially if you need to build a work-appropriate wardrobe quickly. 

Finally, Brooks Brothers is having their Friends and Family sale from May 8th until May 11th. You can expect discounts of about 25%, with some exclusions (shell cordovan shoes and Edward Greens are usually not included in these sales). This might be a good time to pick up some of their oxford cloth button down shirts, if you’ve found that they fit you well. 

Searching for Ralph Lauren Shoes on eBay

To be sure, Ralph Lauren makes a lot of crap (sorry, Ralph). His company basically sells things at every price point on the spectrum, and the lower end stuff isn’t terribly worth buying.

But that’s also maybe why Ralph Lauren shoes don’t go for much money on eBay. Most people don’t want to sift through the chaff. If you’re willing to, however, you can find some great deals. For example, see the following auctions that just ended:

• Basic brown bluchers for $90
• Suede chukkas for $125
• Suede chukkas again for $100
• Quarter brogues for $125
• Pebble grained boots for $125
• Suede semi brogues for $100
• Penny loafers for $62
• Burnished loafers for $113

If you look hard enough, and are patient, you can score some decent shoes for $125 and under. The problem is obviously trying to figure out what’s worth buying. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to discern the true quality of things from just a photo on eBay (sometimes a bad photo at that). There are some things you can do, however. 

• First, use a more refined search link. Ralph Lauren generally makes terrible sneakers and tennis shoes, so you can exclude those from your search by keying in “-tennis, -sneakers, -sneaker” to your query (minus the quotation marks). These will take out the words “tennis,” “sneakers,” and “sneaker” from your search. You probably also want to take out anything from the Chaps line, and exclude RLX shoes (as those won’t be in the classic styles you’re presumably interested in). So add “-Chaps, -RLX” to the end as well. Here is a link to the search with all these conditions, which you can use to find shoes in your size. Feel free to amend the query with even more parameters as you see fit. 
• Second, while I hate to encourage people to think about a garment’s quality in terms of its country of origin (which is often not a very reliable way to determine quality, by the way), it’s generally true in this case that RL’s shoes made in England and Italy will be of higher quality than those made in Asian countries. So, if you can, look for a photo that shows a label declaring where the shoes have been produced. If you don’t see one, ask the seller. Or, better yet, you can do an advanced search and add “(England, Italy)” to your query (again, without the quotation marks). Then tick the box for “Search Titles and Descriptions.” This will pull up any auctions that have the words England or Italy in them. (Note, this will also pull up any auctions that have used the words Ralph Lauren, but are not actual Ralph Lauren shoes, so be careful). 
• Third, while it’s not always true that more expensive things will be better made than less expensive things, it’s generally true here. If you see a manufacturer suggested retail price (MSRP) of $350+ or so, it’s not a bad bet that the shoes have been decently made. 
• Fourth, avoid shoes with overt branding. That is, shoes with pony logos, the word “Polo,” or the name “Ralph Lauren.” It’s fine if these are on the bottom of the sole or the inside of the shoes, but anything on the uppers is generally a mark that it comes from a lower-quality line.
• Finally, as a general rule, try to go for shoes with hard bottom leather soles. Shoes with rubber soles or even half rubber soles (like this) are more likely to be of poor quality. There are exceptions, of course. Suede bucks and boat shoes will almost always come with rubber soles, so this won’t be an indicator of anything. Use smart judgement. 

Again, there are a lot of ugly and poorly made Ralph Lauren shoes on eBay, but with some smart searching and a lot of patience, you can find decent shoes on eBay for less than what you’d pay for if you were hunting for Crockett & Jones or Allen Edmonds. Many of those companies are the ones producing for Ralph Lauren anyway; you’re just getting a different logo on the inside of the shoes. 

It’s On Sale: Club Monaco & Ralph Lauren

Club Monaco has a sale on their sale items: an extra 40% off sale with code SAVE40. This brings their merino wool v-necks down to $35.40 and their cardigans to $41.40. 

Ralph Lauren also has sale prices at up to 65% off right now, but I think it’s worth pointing out their chinos ($44.99) and corduroy ($67.49) “Preston” trousers. Also, they have several repp stripe neckties for $67.49 as well. 

-Kiyoshi

Wear Heavier Fabrics

One of the things I really like about winter is the ability to wear heavier cloths. Heavy fabrics tend to hold their shape better and hang on the body a bit more nicely. This is especially important when you think about how a well-tailored jacket is actually quite three-dimensional, not just a flat, limp, two-dimensional piece that you put on over your own form. Trousers made from heavier cloths also tend to hang a bit better from the seat down, which is nice if you want to maintain an elegant, straight leg-line.

Unfortunately, it can be hard to find good clothing made from heavy cloth nowadays. Fabrics have become lighter over the years in order to accommodate the changes in climate, central heating, and air conditioning. Consumers have also just bought into the idea that lightweight fabrics are more luxurious. Thus, almost everything you’ll ever encounter in a store will be light- to mid-weight.

There are some makers, however, who still make nice, heavy things. Ralph Lauren, for example, will sometimes carry really thick, heavy woolen trousers as part of their “made in Italy” Polo lines. They tend to be very expensive though (we’re talking about $400 for a pair of pants). Obviously, the key here is to get them at the end of the season, when they’ll be discounted 40-50%, but not everyone can afford those prices.

The other possibility is to shop for vintage clothing. In the mid-century, men used to wear heavier cloths by default, purely because the technology to make the super lightweight stuff wasn’t around yet. If you happen to come across something well constructed, and made from a nice heavy fabric, find a reputable place who can hand press it for you (I’d recommend RAVE FabriCARE). Presumably that three-dimensional shape has been lost over decades, but it can be restored if you know where to send it. Note, a hand press is quite different from a machine press (the second of which is what most dry cleaners offer). The first will put in shape for you, while the second will take it out.

If you ever have a chance, check out the heaviest garments a clothier has to offer. Give them a try in the dressing room and see how they feel. I think you’ll be impressed.

Oh, and pictured above? Italian tailor Antonio Panico also recommending classic, heavy cloths. Those stills are from the film O’Mast, which is a kind of must see if you’re interested in classic men’s tailoring.  

December Fair Isle

December is one of the last months you can best wear Fair Isle. They’re not holiday sweaters, but there’s something holiday feeling about them, and while they look great in the fall, I think they look best in the winter. You can stretch them out to maybe about January, but past that, they start to lose their appeal.

A Fair Isle sweater, for those unfamiliar, is a type of knitwear garment that uses a distinctive geometric motif originating from the remote Fair Isle island. They were originally made from undyed wool, so they came in various shades of brown and grey, but nowadays they’re mostly recognized for their very colorful patterning. The best ones, in my opinion, still use the traditional Fair Isle knitting technique: two strands of yarn are knitted throughout an entire row, and continually intertwined on the “wrong” side of the garment. This creates an almost double-thick knit that can lend a lot of warmth.

Now, to be sure, there’s a lot of ugly Fair Isle around, but that can be said about almost anything. The key is to find one you like, and know how to wear it best. I have this tobacco, moss, and oatmeal one from Drake’s, and usually layer it underneath a coat, just so the pattern isn’t too overwhelming. You can see an example here, where I’ve paired the Drake’s sweater with a Loden coat by Aspesi. You can, of course, also wear the sweater without the extra layer, but generally, I find that the louder the pattern, the better it looks when layered underneath something more subdued.

There are plenty of places that sell Fair Isle sweaters. Traditional clothiers such as J. Press and O’Connell’s regularly stock them, as do stores on the slightly more fashionable side of classic, such as Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, and Gant. You can also find a selection by Jamieson and Barbour at Oi Polloi, William Fox and Sons at Present London, and Howlin by Morrison at End Clothing. For more affordable options, turn to Land’s End and J. Crew. Both of those merchants regularly discount their stock by 30-40%, and a full array of sizes is usually still available once they hit their sales.

Finally, if you’d like one custom made, check out Spirit of Shetland and Louise Irvine. As usual with online made-to-measure garments, you want to take multiple measurements and figure out the averages before you submit your numbers. And when in doubt, err on the side of large. You can always wear something that’s just a touch too big, but you’ll never wear something that’s too small.

It’s on Sale: Best of Black Friday Deals on Wardrobe Basics

Our list of Thanksgiving holiday sales and discount codes continues to grow and be updated. Black Friday deals are hard to judge if they’re the best best price you’ll see on an item, however, it’s usually a good time to purchase items that fall under the umbrella of wardrobe basics that don’t go on end-of-season clearance. 

The 30% off sale at Lands’ End produces several great deals, especially if you stack it with their clearance section, but it’s a good time to get a deal on basics, too. Their Hyde Park OCBDs come to $34.30 — just use code WONDERLAND with PIN 2126. 

3sixteen has their raw selvedge denim on sale. Offering 10% off might not seem like a huge deal, but it’s rare they ever discount their jeans — in fact, they often sell out and the price keeps going up for a pair at retail ever year. I’m a huge fan of their SL-100x and Derek’s also praised his pair as well, too. Price comes to $198 with code BF2012 and sale ends tonight.

And if you need a cheaper pair of jeans, Levi’s 501s are 40% off with code BLKFRI, bringing their dark-rinse pair to $46.80. 

If you live in a place that snows and don’t have winter boots yet, then I’d recommend picking up a pair of L.L.Bean Boots, which are on sale for $89.10 with code THANKS10, which knocks 10% off and you get free shipping. They’ve lasted me through two Chicago winters and will probably last many more. 

If you need neckwear, The Knottery’s 25% off (code: GOBBLE) sale gives you silk knit ties for $18.75 and silk grenadines for $41.25 — both are an incredible deal. Derek’s reviewed both previously. 

If you’re looking for affordable chinos, Ralph Lauren’s “Preston” chinos are on sale for $44.99 and come with free shipping. Four colors and a whole bunch of sizes still in stock. 

Finally, if you’ve been thinking of getting a Barbour waxed cotton jacket, check out End Clothing’s selection. They’re offering 25% off your entire order and they deduct VAT for U.S. customers. That brings a jacket like the Ashby to $198.75. 

The Chunky Turtleneck

A friend of mine recently asked me if I knew of a good source for chunky turtlenecks, which reminded of how much I like wearing mine. The one I bought is a cream-colored cable knit with a thickly ribbed, fold down collar. I think it pairs well with heavy outerwear pieces, such as duffle coats, waxed cotton jackets, and pea coats. Ideally, you would wear it when it’s bitterly cold outside, so that it’s more of a functional garment than just a fashion piece.

The best chunky turtleneck I know of is made by Inis Meain, a traditional knitwear maker based on one of the Aran Islands outside the coast of Ireland. Their sweaters are exceptional, but admittedly also very expensive. You can purchase one of their Aran turtleneck designs from Axel’s. For other options in this price tier, consider the offerings by Malo, Sandro, and E. Tautz. Note that Barney’s and Mr. Porter will hold 75%+ off sales at the end of the season (though, that’ll still leave many of those pieces in the “very-expensive” range).

For something more affordable, there’s S.E.H. Kelly’s moss-stitch knit and Ralph Lauren’s cable knit (the latter of the two is having a pretty big sale right now, incidentally, but unfortunately not on that sweater). Fisherman Out of Ireland also has a cabled and ribbed turtleneck available for $150, which you can buy from them through email. I’ve never handled any of their products, but reviews online seem to be good.

Finally, for lack of a better descriptor, there are slightly more rugged options that stay true to the sweater’s workwear origins. Orvis, North Sea Clothing Company, Nigel Cabourn, Aero Leathers, What Price Glory, and Freeman’s Sporting Club may have better bets if you’re likely to wear your turtleneck with things such as jeans and workwear jackets.

A word of caution before you proceed: though Tom Junod once had a great article in GQ about how his father religiously believed that turtlenecks were the most flattering thing a man can wear, I think they really should only be worn by men with defined jawlines. It doesn’t have to be model-esque, but a man with a weak jawline or flabby chin will only look worse when a turtleneck covers up whatever little definition he has. Best to be honest with yourself before you splurge on an expensive sweater. 

The Second Best Color for Flannel Trousers

I recently picked up a new pair of flannel trousers, despite having promised myself that I wouldn’t buy any more dress pants for the rest of the year. I have too many pairs as is, and I’ve come to realize that one only needs five or six odd trousers per season, each in that season’s appropriate fabrics (e.g. heavy flannels and cavalry twill for fall/ winter; tropical wools and linen for spring/ summer). Maybe a few year-rounders such as chinos and jeans to boot, but any more than that, and things just collect dust.

However, I couldn’t resist these these tan flannel trousers from Howard Yount. I’ve been looking for this fabric for months, and being that Howard Yount makes pants that fit me better than most, I figured I could break my promise just this once.

Turns out I’ve been wearing these just as often as my grey flannels, which I’ve always considered to be the most versatile and useful trousers in my closet. The pale, tan color here goes very well with dark blue or brown odd jackets, as well as antique tan or dark brown shoes. They’re easy to wear once you realize they’re about the same color as khaki chinos, but with the added texture of worsted flannel. 

Tan flannel used to be more common before men only wore grey. Today, one can hardly find them. I know Barney’s has a version, though I’m unsure of how they fit. Ralph Lauren and Orvis used to as well last season, but not anymore. That leaves Howard Yount, which I can say is now stocking the second best color for flannel trousers: tan.