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Q and Answer: What Color Shoes Should I Wear With a Navy Suit?

Peter writes: I was recently given a fantastic vintage navy blue suit from the ’70s by my father. The only thing stopping me from wearing it every opportunity I have is the fact that I do not know what shoes to wear with it. I have seen images of men wearing brown and black oxfords and derbys and I really have no idea what is correct. Also, how does the choice of shoe alter which sock is appropriate?

What color shoes to wear with a navy suit is a matter of perpetual debate. The general answer is that it depends on the circumstances and personal preference. The specific answer? Well, let’s run it down.

• Brown: Once, wearing brown shoes with navy was heresy unless you were a Boston Brahmin or a particularly wild Italian. However, brown is the default choice for daytime wear today. The color makes a comfortable partner for navy blue, particularly in darker hues like chocolate. Whether brown shoes are appropriate in the workplace is up to you; there are traditional gentlemen in London who still think brown shoes are inappropriate at a business no matter what color your suit is.
• Black: This is the traditional choice, particularly in the English tradition. Black shoes are more suitable for business and the evening, and while I don’t go to a lot of suit-wearing business meetings, when I wear a navy suit at night, I reach for the sharper, more formal black footwear. 
• Burgundy: Burgundy or cordovan shoes are the wild card here. (Note that “cordovan” is a color, “shell cordovan” a material.) They pair well with navy and are suitable for day or night wear. They’re certainly a somewhat bolder choice than chocolate brown or black, but I think they acquit themselves well. When I wear a navy suit during the day, I find myself pulling out my burgundy shell cordovan Florsheim longwings.

As far as socks are concerned, your default should be to match your trousers - that means navy socks. This applies no matter what color shoes you’re wearing. In fact, you can pretty much wear navy socks with anything other than shorts. If you don’t choose navy, you’ll want something with some contrast, and that contrast should compliment the rest of your outfit. It can pull a color from your accessories, for example. It can also be a wildcard - once in a while, with a white square, blue shirt, blue tie and blue suit, I’ll wear red socks.

(By the way: while this guy looks good, I don’t recommended fitting a suit like this.)

Those Hanover shell cordovan longwings I found (and sold) last week found a great home at Des’ place, as this picture can attest. You could wear these shoes every day for the next ten years.

Now this is a shoe collection. Daaaaaaaang.

It’s on eBay

Gieves & Hawkes Cordovan Wingtips (9UK)

They’re not for everyone, but I love Gieves’ unique broguing.

Start at $350, Ends Sunday

It’s On eBay

Ralph Lauren “Gifford” Shell Cordovan Chukka Boot

$299 Buy It Now (Retail $999)

Q and Answer: Pre-Owned Shoes

Aliotsy asks: Where do you draw the line on whether or not a pre-owned shoe is too worn to be worth purchasing?  Should I only be looking for lightly-worn, like-new shoes? Or is it okay to take a chance on something that’s had a couple years of use?

Great question, Aliotsy.

I buy a lot of my shoes second-hand.  I know for some people this is a no-no, because feet are gross or whatever, but the reality is that everything is gross, especially doorknobs, and if I’m going to use doorknobs, I figure I might as well just go whole-hog.

The biggest drop in a shoe’s price comes the first time it’s worn outside.  Any scuffs on the sole at all and they’re suddenly non-returnable and used.  Usually a very lightly worn shoe (say one that didn’t fit the original owner, but couldn’t be returned) is your best bet when it comes to used shoes.  You can easily save half of the retail price or more if you’re willing to let someone else wear your shoes once or twice before you do.  You should be able to recognize a lightly-worn shoe like this even from eBay photos - there will usually be at least some of the original finish on the shoes.

Some people are obsessed with the idea of one’s feet creating an indelible impression in the footbed of a shoe, making more heavily worn shoes only suitable for their original owner.  I’m not going to say that this is complete baloney, but it’s certainly never been an issue for me.  A greater issue when buying more worn shoes is estimating how much wear is left in them.

A complete recrafting will generally run you about $100 from the manufacturer.  This usually includes replacing the insole and outsole and cleaning and conditioning the upper, and returns even well-worn shoes to very good condition.  If you’re buying shoes that look like they’ll need these services soon, remember to add a hundred bucks to the price you’re paying before you decide if they’re worth it.  This isn’t to say that you should always have used shoes recrafted, but rather that they are much more likely to need recrafting sooner if you wear them with any regularity.

Used shoes have often not been properly cared for.  With a thorough cleaning, conditioning and polishing, they’ll often spring back to life.  This is particularly true of shell cordovan, which can develop a waxy white buildup if it isn’t cared for.  With a cleaning, even old shell often gains a lustrous, deep shine.

Remember though that major flaws in the upper cannot be repaired.  If the leather is gouged, or if there’s crazing, you’re simply not going to be able to make the shoes presentable, and you should walk away.

It’s On eBay

Brooks Brothers Black Fleece (by Alden) Shell Cordovan Longwings (Sz. 11)

Starts at $499 (or Buy It Now $549.99), ends Sunday