Permanent style :: Huntsman tweed suit: Part 1
Delightful, especially the smoothness and luster of the tie against the tweed.
Agreed completely. Texture is such an important part of dressing, and so under-considered, perhaps because it’s hard to photograph for a fashion magazine. If you take a look at the Cary Grant photo we published yesterday, the colors are incredibly simple - it’s the textures that are doing the work.
(via moderndistinction, zebragoesmeow)
If you’re a big guy, like me, this is a time to think about wider lapels like those Polo has introduced this year. More than fashion, this is about proportionality. Put very skinny lapels on a big man and they start to look like a goofy costume. Here, the high notch on wider lapels emphasize the shape of the suit.
On the left is Jawaharlal Nehru, the legendary Indian leader, wearing his namesake collar. Muhammad Ali Jinnah, on the right, was the founder of Pakistan. They look wonderfully, elegant, don’t they?
If you want to see a nightly lesson in how a suit should fit, watch The Late Show with David Letterman.
Now - I’m hardly an unbiased observer. Letterman is, in my book, The Greatest American. The fact, however, remains, that Letterman’s suits are consistently beautiful.
When Letterman held down the Late Night slot on NBC, he dressed pretty casually. He was often seen in a baseball jacket, or an oxford shirt. He often went no further than a blazer and rep tie. He was relaxed and his only style was a rejection of the previous late-night-host expectations.
When he moved to CBS, however, he reset his style. He understood that he was upholding a tradition exemplified by his hero, Johnny Carson, and that a gracious late night host wore a suit.
I don’t know who makes Letterman’s suits, but they are consistently impeccable. I’m not always crazy about the shiny, high-thread-count wools he chooses (particularly on camera), or the all pinstripes. They always, however, fit.
Of course, Letterman’s style isn’t perfect. He invariably wears a white shirt, which does his complexion (and his cameramen) no favors. He has an annoying habit of leaving his jacket open while standing - even on double-breasted coats - which makes him look slovenly and out-of-shape. (This couldn’t be further from the truth, by the way - he’s a strapping, athletic guy.) Worst of all, he insists on wearing loafers with his suits… and (ick) white socks. That’s charming with chinos in Take Ivy, but untenable on network TV.
Still… those suits. Perfect. Also: Letterman: greatest ever.
BREAKING: Rob informs me that Letterman’s suits are made in New York by Leonard Logsdail.
It’s On Sale
Linen Kennebunk Suit Separates
Blazer $99.50, Pants $57 at LL Bean Signature
(Thanks, Nicholas!)
I reblog this suit from our pal MistahWong not just because it’s lovely (though it is), but because he and his tailor have gotten his fit down wonderfully. There’s a lot to learn here.
This is Hong Kong suit made in a somewhat Neopolitan style. The tailoring here is relatively soft - check out the shoulders, for example. They are consistent (you want your coat to cover up imperfections in the shoulder), but nonetheless very lightly padded. There is slight roping - that’s the ridge along the shoulder to sleeve seam where there’s a bit of extra sleeve fabric. The arm hole in the body is actually slightly smaller than the sleeve that attaches to it, which provides for freedom of movement. The coat is soft through the body, but nonetheless offers some waist suppression - note that it makes his waist look small relative to his shoulders with a little nip there.
Mistahwong has a particularly keen sense of proportion, and prefers his lapel notch and breast pocket relatively high. I’m guessing the coat is relatively short, as well, though we can’t quite see that here. The patch pockets (another Neopolitan signature) are also rounded, which is a nice touch. The end result is a suit that has an elegant shape, but is relatively informal, thanks to the soft construction and patch pockets, despite a relatively formal fabric.
Of course, this is by no means the only way to make and wear a suit, but it’s important to become familiar with the variety of suit shapes and the many choices a suit designer makes if you want to make informed choices about your own clothes.
STYLE CELEBRITIES: THEY’RE JUST LIKE YOU!
Nii Ayikwei, pictured above, lives in Atlanta, where it’s hot as Hades this time of year. He deals with it by wearing tropical-weight wool, which wears quite cool. Speaking of cool - I like the cool tones in the palette of this outfit. Makes you feel like summer is somehow manageable.
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