Put This On

The submariner sweater - originally manufactured for the British Navy, now recreated by North Sea Clothing.  Like the best military clothing turned civilian clothing, it’s simple, elegant and functional.

(via)

It’s On eBay

8-Ply Cashmere Carrol & Co. Cardigan

Carrol & Co. is the lone high-end traditional men’s clothing store in Los Angeles.  I tried on a cashmere sweater they made at Jake the other day, and the quality was phenomenal.  I own a suit that bears their store brand, and it was made by Chester Barrie, one of the finest ready-to-wear manufacturers in the world.  The cut of the sweater I tried on was very traditional, but this sweater’s an XXL, so you’d hardly be hoping for a slim cut.

Starts at $9.99, ends Monday

It’s On Ebay

Circa 1950s striped wool cardigan

Starting at $19.99, ends tonight

All I Want For Christmas: Ask Andy

In our series All I Want For Christmas, we ask men we like what they’d like to get for Christmas.  Our final subject Andy Gilchrist is the proprietor of Ask Andy About Clothes.  The site features both his book (on CD), “The Encyclopedia of Men’s Clothes,” and a popular men’s style forum.  He’s a classicist, and his site is the unofficial home of the “trads,” who espouse the principles of traditional American style.  So what does the man who gives advice want?

It’s on the luxurious list, but why not treat yourself to a cashmere* sweater!  Go with a cable knit for more interest and a tan color (neutral) for maximum versatility.  Neutral colors go with everything.
 
You can choose a V-neck, which will show more shirt and attract attention to your face or the classic crew neck.

Happy holidays!

*Cashmere is very soft, and luxurious yarn spun from the wool obtained from the soft fleecy underbelly of the Kashmir (Capra Hircus) goat of the Kashmir Valley, northwestern India.  For many centuries Kashmir was the only place the fiber could be woven, according to treaties that gave the Maharaja of Kashmir exclusive rights to the cashmere supply, but now the Kashmir goat is raised in Tibet, Mongolia, China, Iran, Iraq, and India.

V-neck cashmere sweater by Polo, $299

It’s On Ebay

Vintage Norweigan Fair Isle Sweater

Starting at $9.99, ends Wednesday

Eight Days of Style

Reader Lucy wrote to us to ask that we suggest eight super-basic, affordable Hanukkah gifts for her boyfriend “to replace his stained light-wash jeans and Nine Inch Nails t-shirts.”  We’ll offer one choice for each day the oil burned.

This one’s a splurge, but isn’t he worth it?  Get him a nice cashmere sweater.  A v-neck in a basic color (oatmeal, navy, gray, burgundy) that suits his complexion.  He can wear it all the time.  Don’t let him dry clean it - clean it once a year or so in the sink.  Find one on sale at the mall, or for better quality (all cashmere is certainly not the same) get a used one made in Scotland or England on Ebay.  Even a Ballantyne won’t cost you more than about $40 - and good cashmere just gets softer.

Q and Answer

Aaron writes to ask us:

How does one go about layering dress shirts with sweaters? I’ve worn polo and dress shirts under v-neck sweaters with the top button undone and it looks okay.
But how do you wear a crew neck sweater with a dress shirt?

Some basic guidelines -

• A shirt and tie go with a v-neck or cardigan only.
• A collared shirt goes fine with a crew neck or v-neck, though it can be tough to corral your collar in a v-neck if it isn’t a button-down.  Unless you’re making a fashion statement, unbutton the top button.
• A polo is warm-weather active clothing, and looks a bit silly under a sweater.
• T-shirts and sweaters aren’t a particularly elegant combination (again: if it’s so hot you’re wearing a t-shirt, why is it so cold you’re wearing a sweater?), but a plain t-shirt is fine with a crew or v-neck in a very casual context.
• Avoid combining printed t-shirts with v-necks.

(Photo via Flickr user UncleSteve)

It’s On Ebay

Vintage Norweigan Handknitted Sweater

Buy It Now: $49.99

It’s On Ebay

Three Pringle cashmere sweater vests

Starting at $9.99, ends Sunday

The Economist has an excellent summary of what to look for when you’re buying cashmere.  In the past 15 years, cashmere has become a mass-market product.  Previously, only the best fibers were taken from goats, and those fibers were milled and woven by artisans in places like Scotland and Italy.  Today, standards can be much lower, and garments are often milled, knit and finished in China.  In the past, cashmere was made from only the longest, finest fibers from the goat’s underside.  Today, there are no such standards, at least for mass-market product.

Here’s how the Economist says you should differentiate between the good stuff (which lasts a lifetime) and the cheap stuff (which can pill in a matter of weeks):

“Look for tension in the knitting: stretch a section and it should ping back into shape. Hold it up to the light and you shouldn’t see much sky: paradoxically, the best cashmere, though made from the finest hair, has a density to it. Examine its surface: fluffiness suggests the yarn was spun from shorter, weaker fibres and will pill. Be sceptical about softness, too. Over-milling can make a garment too soft and silky, and therefore prone to bobbling and losing its shape. More expensive cashmere may be harder to handle in the shop, but will ease up with wear and hand-washing. The best cashmere actually improves with age - so long as the moths don’t get to it.”

The whole article has been transcribed by a thoughtful StyleForum member here.

As for myself - when I’m buying cashmere, I focus on older sweaters (think 1980s and earlier) made in England and Scotland.  They can often be had on Ebay for $30-60, and the density and softness of the wool is unparalleled.