November 18, 2015

Shagging to Stay Warm

Before they became commercialized, early and authentic Shetland sweaters were made from natural-colored wools. Nowadays, you can get them in almost any color – from basics such as grey and navy, to bolder expressions of bright yellows and reds. They also come in plain and brushed varieties. The plain ones are a bit rough and itchy, whereas the brushed versions are soft against the skin and, because of that beautiful loft, feel a bit warmer as well. 

You can wear brushed Shetlands the old and traditional way: with oxford-cloth button-downs, soft-shouldered tweeds, and waxed-cotton Barbours. For something less preppy, try layering them under more modern-looking jackets. Pictured above is my navy Shetland with a maple-colored cycling jacket. The brushed surface in that case is just an easy way to add texture to a very non-preppy ensemble. 

If you’re looking to get a brushed Shetland this season, here are some options to consider.

  • J. Press ($245): The company that originally popularized the brushed Shetland look. Theirs is called the Shaggy Dog, and it’s become so synonymous with brushed Shetlands that the name is often misused as a generic term for the style (although, true Shaggy Dogs are always from J. Press). Available in a fuller-fitting mainline variety and slimmer-fitting York Street version. 
  • Drake’s ($190): My favorite accessories label has been slowly turning into a full menswear line with shirts, sport coats, and even knitwear. Their brushed Shetlands come in solid colors and stripes. Certain to be well-made, given Drake’s standards. 
  • Ralph Lauren ($189): Not an authentic Shetland, as it’s not actually made from Shetland wool, but close enough. The touch of cashmere will make this feel a bit softer. 
  • William Fox and Sons ($180): Brushed Shetlands in slightly more unusual designs, from Nordic patterns to mocknecks. Just don’t get a short-sleeved sweater. That’s terrible. 
  • Howlin by Morrison ($170): A Belgian knitwear brand offering traditional styled knits targeted at younger customers. Their brushed Shetlands feel a bit more delicate than J. Press, but they also cost nearly a hundred bucks less. Available at Independence and Unionmade. 
  • Wood Wood ($135): Simple, basic, and in what I think is the most versatile color. The label at the hem can probably be removed with a seam ripper.
  • Shetland Woollen Co. ($125): Brushed not once, not twice, but three times, these sweaters look like the knitwear equivalents of cotton candy. Easily the most textured of all the options mentioned here. 
  • Harley of Scotland ($125+): A knitwear brand worn by the blogger behind Heavy Tweed Jacket, which is a good enough endorsement for me. Available at Orvis, Unionmade, and Bahles. 
  • Jamieson’s ($110): Not actually made from Shetland wool, and not that shaggy, but well-made, a bit fuzzy, and nicely affordable. 
Posted in Sweaters J. Press Drake's Ralph Lauren Present London Howlin by Morrison Unionmade Independence Wood Wood End Harley of Scotland Orvis Bahles Shetland Woollen Co. Oi Polloi Jamieson's Shaggy Dogs William Fox & Sons
April 30, 2015
The Legend of the Never-Ending Polo BearNY Mag’s The Cut has a post today on the legend of the never-ending Polo Bear sweater – a mythological piece of knitwear that ‘Lo Heads have been chasing forever:As the story goes, back in the late ’80s, Ralph Lauren was so taken with a birthday gift he got from his design team — a classic Steiff teddy bear, wearing a teddy-bear-size Polo getup — that he began carrying these Polo-clad bears in his stores. The stuffed animals were a hit, and he decided to stamp them on his clothes: The first sweater, released in 1991, featured a bear looking very much the Buckley sixth grader, sporting a blazer and chinos. Subsequent iterations (of which there have been many) have included the P-Bear wearing an American-flag sweater and jeans; sporting a hoodie and holding a basketball; teeing off on the golf course; and, one of my favorites, channeling Picasso in a beret and a striped Breton shirt. The Polo Bear went on to become a recognizable mascot, a cuddly counterpart to the Polo pony. There is also, legend has it, a mythical sweater on which there is knitted a Never-Ending Bear. Meaning: a bear that is itself wearing a Polo Bear sweater, whose bear is also wearing a Polo Bear sweater, and on and on ad infinitum.[…]Over 20 years later, there are still aficionados who call themselves Lo-Lifes and Lo-Heads (while Lo-Lifes refer to the ‘80s-era Polophiles, Lo-Heads are anyone who wears full Polo looks) who’ll get together to swap their finest gear. Rare vintage pieces go for thousands of dollars on eBay — among them the aforementioned Polo Snow Beach shirt (“the holy grail of Ralph Lauren jackets,” according to Mass Appeal) and an extremely coveted cashmere Polo Bear sweater. But among these devoted Lo-Heads, there is one piece that is the most sought-after: the Never-Ending Bear. That is, if it even exists. Polo-devotee and rapper Mayhem Lauren told Vice in 2011 that it’s almost “mythological.” He said: “Well, supposedly there’s a knit out there with a bear rockin’ a knit with himself on it, and he’s rocking a bear, and it just goes on and on forever. Guys will swear they have three of those but they never bring it out, never rock it for flicks, but supposedly it’s there.”The article gets one small thing wrong: a ‘Lo Life is a member of a specific NYC-based crew, while a ‘Lo Head is just a specific type of RL Polo enthusiast. All ‘Lo Lifes are ‘Lo Heads, but not all ‘Lo Heads are ‘Lo Lifes. But that’s not a big deal, because someone finally did a story about the most important sweater on the planet right now. You can read the whole post here. (via Jacob Gallagher) 

The Legend of the Never-Ending Polo Bear

NY Mag’s The Cut has a post today on the legend of the never-ending Polo Bear sweater – a mythological piece of knitwear that ‘Lo Heads have been chasing forever:

As the story goes, back in the late ’80s, Ralph Lauren was so taken with a birthday gift he got from his design team — a classic Steiff teddy bear, wearing a teddy-bear-size Polo getup — that he began carrying these Polo-clad bears in his stores. The stuffed animals were a hit, and he decided to stamp them on his clothes: The first sweater, released in 1991, featured a bear looking very much the Buckley sixth grader, sporting a blazer and chinos. Subsequent iterations (of which there have been many) have included the P-Bear wearing an American-flag sweater and jeans; sporting a hoodie and holding a basketball; teeing off on the golf course; and, one of my favorites, channeling Picasso in a beret and a striped Breton shirt. The Polo Bear went on to become a recognizable mascot, a cuddly counterpart to the Polo pony. There is also, legend has it, a mythical sweater on which there is knitted a Never-Ending Bear. Meaning: a bear that is itself wearing a Polo Bear sweater, whose bear is also wearing a Polo Bear sweater, and on and on ad infinitum.
[…]
Over 20 years later, there are still aficionados who call themselves Lo-Lifes and Lo-Heads (while Lo-Lifes refer to the ‘80s-era Polophiles, Lo-Heads are anyone who wears full Polo looks) who’ll get together to swap their finest gear. Rare vintage pieces go for thousands of dollars on eBay — among them the aforementioned Polo Snow Beach shirt (“the holy grail of Ralph Lauren jackets,” according to Mass Appeal) and an extremely coveted cashmere Polo Bear sweater. But among these devoted Lo-Heads, there is one piece that is the most sought-after: the Never-Ending Bear. That is, if it even exists. Polo-devotee and rapper Mayhem Lauren told Vice in 2011 that it’s almost “mythological.” He said: “Well, supposedly there’s a knit out there with a bear rockin’ a knit with himself on it, and he’s rocking a bear, and it just goes on and on forever. Guys will swear they have three of those but they never bring it out, never rock it for flicks, but supposedly it’s there.”

The article gets one small thing wrong: a ‘Lo Life is a member of a specific NYC-based crew, while a ‘Lo Head is just a specific type of RL Polo enthusiast. All ‘Lo Lifes are ‘Lo Heads, but not all ‘Lo Heads are ‘Lo Lifes. 

But that’s not a big deal, because someone finally did a story about the most important sweater on the planet right now. You can read the whole post here. 

(via Jacob Gallagher) 

Posted in Ralph Lauren Sweaters The Cut 'Lo Heads
March 2, 2015
How to Get Rid of PillingNothing makes a sweater look worse than pilling, and the bad news is: no matter the fiber composition or the quality of the make, all sweaters pill. That includes everything from cheaply made cotton knits from Zara to the finest cashmere sweaters from William Lockie. The question of pilling is only “how much” and “how quickly.” Higher-quality knits won’t pill as easily, but with enough wear, they’ll still pill. There are some products on the market to help you take care of pilling. Some are worth buying; some are not. The ones that you should avoid include sweater combs and stones, which you’re supposed to drag over you sweater in order to pull the pills off. The problem is that they do more harm than good. Remember: pilling occurs when the tiny, microscopic fibers in a yarn break and tangle into each other. When you drag something abrasive over your sweater, you’ll take the pills off, but you’ll also create breakages that will quickly form new ones. The best solution is to use a sweater shaver, like one you see above. These will won’t create new breakages because they cut the pills off, rather than drag them out. eBay and Amazon have cheap sweater shavers for just a few dollars, but from my experience, those either don’t work, or they risk snagging your sweater. Instead, pony up for something good. A decent sweater shaver should only set you back about $10 or $20. At the end of every season, just pass the shaver over your sweater around the areas that need cleaning up. A minute or two later, your sweater will look like it just came from the store. 

How to Get Rid of Pilling

Nothing makes a sweater look worse than pilling, and the bad news is: no matter the fiber composition or the quality of the make, all sweaters pill. That includes everything from cheaply made cotton knits from Zara to the finest cashmere sweaters from William Lockie. The question of pilling is only “how much” and “how quickly.” Higher-quality knits won’t pill as easily, but with enough wear, they’ll still pill. 

There are some products on the market to help you take care of pilling. Some are worth buying; some are not. 

The ones that you should avoid include sweater combs and stones, which you’re supposed to drag over you sweater in order to pull the pills off. The problem is that they do more harm than good. Remember: pilling occurs when the tiny, microscopic fibers in a yarn break and tangle into each other. When you drag something abrasive over your sweater, you’ll take the pills off, but you’ll also create breakages that will quickly form new ones. 

The best solution is to use a sweater shaver, like one you see above. These will won’t create new breakages because they cut the pills off, rather than drag them out. 

eBay and Amazon have cheap sweater shavers for just a few dollars, but from my experience, those either don’t work, or they risk snagging your sweater. Instead, pony up for something good. A decent sweater shaver should only set you back about $10 or $20. At the end of every season, just pass the shaver over your sweater around the areas that need cleaning up. A minute or two later, your sweater will look like it just came from the store. 

Posted in Sweaters Care and Maintenance
February 9, 2015
How to Wash a SweaterSweaters don’t have to be washed after every wear, but they do need to be cleaned every so often. I wash mine after every seven to ten wears, and at the end of each winter season. Doing so keeps them safe from critters such as silverfish and moths when I store them away in the spring. Generally speaking, tough cotton knits (such as sweatshirts) can be thrown in the laundry, while finer cottons and anything made from wool or cashmere will need to be hand washed. Thankfully, the process of hand washing something is pretty easy:First, scrub out your sink basin and fill it up with cool water. Then put in a small amount of gentle detergent. I use Woolite Extra Delicates Care, while our advertiser The Hanger Project sells formulas from The Laundress and Johnstons of Elgin. I’ve also heard of people using gentle shampoo. Whatever you choose, put in a small amount and swish that stuff around until you see suds. Submerge your sweater and gently move it around, just to loosen up the dirt. Leave it in for about ten or fifteen minutes before returning to swish it around some more. If you want, you can scrub the collar and cuffs, but be gentle. Drain the basin and fill it up again with water, so that you can rinse the soap out. Don’t let the stream of water hit your sweater, however. Otherwise, the fabric can felt.Once you’ve gotten the soap out, drain the basin again and carefully gather your sweater into a ball. Squeeze the water out by compressing the ball, but don’t wring. Yarns are extra delicate when wet. Now lay your sweater on a clean, dry, white towel (colored towels can sometimes transfer dyes). Roll the towel and sweater up together, squeezing as you work, to get any excess moisture out. Finally, take your sweater out and lay it somewhere to dry. Try to put it as close to its original form as possible and set it away from direct sunlight or heat. To get some air circulating from underneath, I like sweater drying racks (which you can get built-into a wall if you’re fancy), but you can also just lay your sweater out on a table. If you do, put it on a different towel, since the previous one is probably a bit damp and can cause mildew. Bonus tip: Button a cardigan before washing. This will help help maintain its shape. The process sounds kind of involved, but your actual work time should only be about ten minutes. It’s a small price to pay to make a sweater feel new again. (photo via Because I’m Addicted)

How to Wash a Sweater

Sweaters don’t have to be washed after every wear, but they do need to be cleaned every so often. I wash mine after every seven to ten wears, and at the end of each winter season. Doing so keeps them safe from critters such as silverfish and moths when I store them away in the spring. 

Generally speaking, tough cotton knits (such as sweatshirts) can be thrown in the laundry, while finer cottons and anything made from wool or cashmere will need to be hand washed. Thankfully, the process of hand washing something is pretty easy:

  • First, scrub out your sink basin and fill it up with cool water. Then put in a small amount of gentle detergent. I use Woolite Extra Delicates Care, while our advertiser The Hanger Project sells formulas from The Laundress and Johnstons of Elgin. I’ve also heard of people using gentle shampoo. Whatever you choose, put in a small amount and swish that stuff around until you see suds. 
  • Submerge your sweater and gently move it around, just to loosen up the dirt. Leave it in for about ten or fifteen minutes before returning to swish it around some more. If you want, you can scrub the collar and cuffs, but be gentle. 
  • Drain the basin and fill it up again with water, so that you can rinse the soap out. Don’t let the stream of water hit your sweater, however. Otherwise, the fabric can felt.
  • Once you’ve gotten the soap out, drain the basin again and carefully gather your sweater into a ball. Squeeze the water out by compressing the ball, but don’t wring. Yarns are extra delicate when wet. 
  • Now lay your sweater on a clean, dry, white towel (colored towels can sometimes transfer dyes). Roll the towel and sweater up together, squeezing as you work, to get any excess moisture out. 
  • Finally, take your sweater out and lay it somewhere to dry. Try to put it as close to its original form as possible and set it away from direct sunlight or heat. To get some air circulating from underneath, I like sweater drying racks (which you can get built-into a wall if you’re fancy), but you can also just lay your sweater out on a table. If you do, put it on a different towel, since the previous one is probably a bit damp and can cause mildew. 

Bonus tip: Button a cardigan before washing. This will help help maintain its shape. 

The process sounds kind of involved, but your actual work time should only be about ten minutes. It’s a small price to pay to make a sweater feel new again. 

(photo via Because I’m Addicted)

Posted in Sweaters Care and Maintenance
January 1, 2015
Relaxing on New Year’s Day After a long night out in a coat-and-tie, New Year’s Day calls for some lounging. What I’m wearing today: Fawn Flannel Trousers: Arguably the third best color for flannel trousers, after light- and mid-gray. Think of them as khaki chinos, but in a better looking (and more comfortable) material. The ones above were made by Steed, but you can also find them at Howard Yount. Chunky Shawl Collar Cardigan: Knitwear doesn’t always have to be sandwiched between your jacket and shirt. If you get a cardigan that’s chunky enough, you can treat it like outerwear. Layer one over a dress shirt or a thin sweater. My cardigan is from Ovadia & Sons, who has it in black and green this season. You can also find some from Scott & Charters (available at three different stores), Northern Waters, Black Sheep, and The Armoury.  Turtleneck: Works better on some men than others, and I’m not always even sure it works well on me, but it’s a cold New Year’s Day and I feel brave. Mine is a charcoal piece from Ballantyne, a Scottish maker that’s sadly now defunct as a manufacturer and exists in name only. You can find other nice turtlenecks, however, at A Suitable Wardrobe and Ralph Lauren. (Unseen) Black Chukkas: I’m wearing a pretty simple pair of black chukkas today, but the above has me lusting after some George boots. Shipton & Heneage has a relatively affordably priced model. If it were warmer, you could also wear the above with some black penny loafers.  In soft flannels and wools, I’m loungin’, loungin’, mellow out and just loungin’.

Relaxing on New Year’s Day

After a long night out in a coat-and-tie, New Year’s Day calls for some lounging. What I’m wearing today:

  • Fawn Flannel Trousers: Arguably the third best color for flannel trousers, after light- and mid-gray. Think of them as khaki chinos, but in a better looking (and more comfortable) material. The ones above were made by Steed, but you can also find them at Howard Yount.
  • Chunky Shawl Collar Cardigan: Knitwear doesn’t always have to be sandwiched between your jacket and shirt. If you get a cardigan that’s chunky enough, you can treat it like outerwear. Layer one over a dress shirt or a thin sweater. My cardigan is from Ovadia & Sons, who has it in black and green this season. You can also find some from Scott & Charters (available at three different stores), Northern Waters, Black Sheep, and The Armoury. 
  • Turtleneck: Works better on some men than others, and I’m not always even sure it works well on me, but it’s a cold New Year’s Day and I feel brave. Mine is a charcoal piece from Ballantyne, a Scottish maker that’s sadly now defunct as a manufacturer and exists in name only. You can find other nice turtlenecks, however, at A Suitable Wardrobe and Ralph Lauren.
  • (Unseen) Black Chukkas: I’m wearing a pretty simple pair of black chukkas today, but the above has me lusting after some George boots. Shipton & Heneage has a relatively affordably priced model. If it were warmer, you could also wear the above with some black penny loafers. 

In soft flannels and wools, I’m loungin’, loungin’, mellow out and just loungin’.

Posted in Sweaters Turtlenecks Layering Trickers A Suitable Wardrobe Ralph Lauren Northern Waters Black Sheep The Armoury Scott & Charters Ovadia & Sons Steed Howard Yount Ballantyne No Man Walks Alone Epaulet Mandon
December 3, 2014

fordlibrarymuseum:

Sweater weather is here! President Ford sported this hand-knitted “WIN” patterned pullover supporting the Whip Inflation Now campaign during his family’s holiday vacation in Vail, Colorado. December 25, 1974.

This is absolutely amazing. We need to bring back anti-inflation sweaters. Or perhaps we can substitute pro-employment sweaters. WuN? Whip unemployment now?

(Source: fordlibrarymuseum.gov)

Posted in Vintage Sweaters 1970s Gerald Ford
November 4, 2014

Gallery: Turtlesnecks? I’ve Got My Share

Not so long ago, the turtleneck sweater was consigned to the thrift shop bin of history. Cotton mock turtlenecks (often printed) were default mom garms, and wool or cashmere the territory of standup bits and 1970s parody. Turtleneck sweaters (or “rollneck” sweaters, which seems to be preferred term for people who don’t want to admit they’re wearing a turtleneck) (although not all turtlenecks are in fact rollnecks) have been slowly crawling back into cultural acceptability, largely through the workwear loophole, since burly wool t-necks are classic maritime gear. Now that people are considering such knits again, more neck-friendly versions in cashmere are re-appearing.

So I was glad to see writer Rachel Syme solicit photos of men in turtlenecks on Twitter yesterday, and I present her findings above, plus one via Wellwornwornwell. Guys? We look pretty good in turtlenecks. Rachel caveats: “The turtleneck is really a full showcase for the face; it requires true face confidence like can you handle being a classical bust or not.” Maybe that’s why they seem a natural choice for actor’s headshots. Likewise, Derek has cautioned before that turtlenecks aren’t for everyone. But you won’t know for certain until you try.

Top to bottom, left to right: Steve McQueen, Paul Bowles, Mick Jagger, Clark Gable, Frank Langella, Gary Cooper, Sean Connery, Otis Redding, Paul McCartney, David Bowie.

-Pete

Posted in Sweaters Turtlenecks Rachel Syme
October 13, 2014
Fixing Snags Fall is the season for sweaters and … snagging sweaters. If you end up getting a snag, there’s a good and bad way to fix it.  The bad way is cutting it, which you absolutely don’t want to do. You might think that you’re getting rid of the pull, but over time, this area can develop a hole.  A better solution is to pull the snag to the backside of the garment, so that the thread is still intact, but the damage is invisible. There are several ways to do this: You can use a tool called a Snag Nab-It, which is basically a long needle with a rough end. Push it through your snag and the rough end will take it to the other side. I’ve used this successfully on knits and wovens (wovens meaning the non-stretchy material you find on dress shirts and trousers), but if your material is particularly fine or delicate, you might want to try another method.  A gentler solution is to use a large sewing needle with a big eye. Couple this with a needle threader or some kind of thread, and use both to “catch” the snag as you pull the needle through. You can also use some thick embroidery or button thread, which you can wrap your snag on, and do the same thing. Remember, for something really delicate, go slow. It’s better to work this area a few times, rather than worsen the damage.  For the truly patient, you can use also a large blunt needle and try to tease the yarn back to its original place. Pull the thread through to the next stitch, and then the next, and then the next – dispersing the excess material evenly across the row. You want to work both sides of the snag, so that everything looks natural. This easier on large gauge knits, but it’s possible with fine ones as well. Once you’re done, steam the area and admire your work. 

Fixing Snags

Fall is the season for sweaters and … snagging sweaters. If you end up getting a snag, there’s a good and bad way to fix it. 

The bad way is cutting it, which you absolutely don’t want to do. You might think that you’re getting rid of the pull, but over time, this area can develop a hole. 

A better solution is to pull the snag to the backside of the garment, so that the thread is still intact, but the damage is invisible. There are several ways to do this:

  • You can use a tool called a Snag Nab-It, which is basically a long needle with a rough end. Push it through your snag and the rough end will take it to the other side. I’ve used this successfully on knits and wovens (wovens meaning the non-stretchy material you find on dress shirts and trousers), but if your material is particularly fine or delicate, you might want to try another method. 
  • A gentler solution is to use a large sewing needle with a big eye. Couple this with a needle threader or some kind of thread, and use both to “catch” the snag as you pull the needle through. You can also use some thick embroidery or button thread, which you can wrap your snag on, and do the same thing. Remember, for something really delicate, go slow. It’s better to work this area a few times, rather than worsen the damage. 

For the truly patient, you can use also a large blunt needle and try to tease the yarn back to its original place. Pull the thread through to the next stitch, and then the next, and then the next – dispersing the excess material evenly across the row. You want to work both sides of the snag, so that everything looks natural. This easier on large gauge knits, but it’s possible with fine ones as well. Once you’re done, steam the area and admire your work. 

Posted in Care and Maintenance Sweaters Snag Nab-It Repairs
October 2, 2014
beatonna: I want cable knit sweaters to be something they are not  If it’s wrong to love a bulky, scratchy sweater like this one, I don’t want to be right. -Pete

beatonna:

I want cable knit sweaters to be something they are not 

If it’s wrong to love a bulky, scratchy sweater like this one, I don’t want to be right.

-Pete

Posted in Sweaters Knitwear Cable Knit Kate Beaton
October 2, 2014

Donegal Sweaters

We’re on the cusp of sweater weather, and this fall, I’m most looking forward to wearing this grey “Donegal” knit from Inis Meain. I put Donegal in quotes because the sweater wasn’t actually made in Donegal, but rather, it’s reminiscent of the hallmark tweeds that come of that region. Those tweeds have flecks of color, which are allowed to glob onto the yarns in irregular ways. You learn about it in this wonderful video Jesse put together on Molloy & Sons, one of the region’s best mills.  

The nice thing about speckled sweaters is that you can wear them on their own with an oxford cloth shirt or a brushed flannel. I like hardier shirtings in this case because they have a visual weight that feels a bit more at home with such rugged looking knits. By itself, the flecks make the sweater a little more interesting than the smooth, plain-colored merinos you see everywhere else. At the same time, the pattern is also easy to pair with any kind of outerwear. 

This season, it seems everyone is selling a Donegal knit. Here are some you may want to consider, from most to least expensive. 

Over $300

Over $200

  • East Harbour Surplus ($265): A Japanese brand with Italian-made, American-inspired designs. These vintage-y looking cardigans fit really slim, so be sure to size up. 
  • O'Connell’s ($225): My favorite source for Shetlands. Well made stuff that stands up to abuse. Plus, O'Connell’s has a great pedigree that’s hard to beat. 
  • Oliver Spencer ($225): A slightly more interesting look piece. Pair this with more modern looking coats and jackets, and perhaps a slim pair of charcoal trousers.  
  • Epaulet (~$220): A popular brand among menswear enthusiasts. They just released some cabled Donegal sweaters with shawl collars and mocknecks. 
  • Alex Mill ($207): A new label headed by the son of J. Crew’s CEO, Mickey Drexler. Designs tend to be basic, but easy to incorporate into any wardrobe. This black Donegal sweater has a sort of chic look to it. 

Over $100

Under $100

Posted in Sweaters Donegal Tweeds Nigel Cabourn Unionmade Inverallan Inis Meain Frans Boone Doherty Evans & Stott The Hanger Project East Harbour Surplus O'Connell's Oliver Spencer No Man Walks Alone Epaulet Alex Mill Orvis Paul Smith Mr. Porter Howlin' by Morrison End Clothing Gilt Jack Spade GRP Indigo & Cotton Norse Projects Neighbour Universal Works Charles Tyrwhitt J. Crew Club Monaco