Put This On

A web series about dressing like a grownup

mostexerent:

today in detail

MistahWong with another spectacular combination.  Note that the blue blazer / great trousers combination has been de-fogeyfied with some spectacular attention to detail.  Amazing texture on the shirt and tie combination, a silver safety pin holding the tie, a beautiful square, and big (2”?) cuffs.  Elegant, classic - but also distinctive and noticable.

It’s On Sale
Navy and White Knit Tie
$55 from $65 at Howard Yount

It’s On Sale

Navy and White Knit Tie

$55 from $65 at Howard Yount

Q and Answer
Sam writes:
I’m tall. 6’3” or so. I like the look of a thicker knot in a necktie for some occasions, but if I try anything other than a four-in-hand I end up with a tie that is too short.   I realize there are longer ties available, but that brings with it the limited options and history of bad fashion at big-and-tall shops. Any advice? 
Sam, I myself am 6’3”, and don’t worry: there is help!
First of all: there’s nothing wrong with the four-in-hand.  Best tie knot around.  Versatile, rakish, handsome, never ostentatious.  However, if you want to fill out a spread collar, a bigger knot is great to have in your repotoire.
I agree with you that avoiding big-and-tall shops is a great idea.  Especially if you’re just tall - they tend to make clothes for people who are both.
Two sources for longer neckties come to mind.  On the budget side, Land’s End is a great source.  They offer many traditional necktie styles, and while their quality isn’t world-class, it’s very good for the price.  Here’s a classic Churchill dot tie, for example - long size is only $19.99.  You can also try some focused Ebay searching for long ties that may net some similar options.
If you’re willing to spend a bit more, you can get your ties made to your exact preferences by Sam Hober.  They charge $80 for hand-made neckties in any length and width, so you can buy a tie that fits you perfectly.  I bought the tie I wore in my wedding from Sam Hober, and while it took quite some time to arrive (the cost of bespoke), the quality is quite nice, and it’s a relief to have a tie with a rear blade that actually reaches past the keeper loop. Of course, Hober is also a great option for shorter men who have the opposite problem.
Hopefully some combination of these two will help keep you from looking like Oliver Hardy whenever you’re suited up.

Q and Answer

Sam writes:

I’m tall. 6’3” or so. I like the look of a thicker knot in a necktie for some occasions, but if I try anything other than a four-in-hand I end up with a tie that is too short.   I realize there are longer ties available, but that brings with it the limited options and history of bad fashion at big-and-tall shops. Any advice?

Sam, I myself am 6’3”, and don’t worry: there is help!

First of all: there’s nothing wrong with the four-in-hand.  Best tie knot around.  Versatile, rakish, handsome, never ostentatious.  However, if you want to fill out a spread collar, a bigger knot is great to have in your repotoire.

I agree with you that avoiding big-and-tall shops is a great idea.  Especially if you’re just tall - they tend to make clothes for people who are both.

Two sources for longer neckties come to mind.  On the budget side, Land’s End is a great source.  They offer many traditional necktie styles, and while their quality isn’t world-class, it’s very good for the price.  Here’s a classic Churchill dot tie, for example - long size is only $19.99.  You can also try some focused Ebay searching for long ties that may net some similar options.

If you’re willing to spend a bit more, you can get your ties made to your exact preferences by Sam Hober.  They charge $80 for hand-made neckties in any length and width, so you can buy a tie that fits you perfectly.  I bought the tie I wore in my wedding from Sam Hober, and while it took quite some time to arrive (the cost of bespoke), the quality is quite nice, and it’s a relief to have a tie with a rear blade that actually reaches past the keeper loop. Of course, Hober is also a great option for shorter men who have the opposite problem.

Hopefully some combination of these two will help keep you from looking like Oliver Hardy whenever you’re suited up.

Look at how well Richard from Kent (UK) handles the mix of colors and textures in this fall ensemble.  You wouldn’t necessarily think of baby blue as a fall color, but when it’s woven into the knotty wool and popping out in that silk square, it works beautifully.  It reminds me of those moments in fall when the sky pops out behind a line of trees, and it’s as blue as it could ever be.

Greg in Phoenix demonstrates some astonishing derring-do in this combination of shirt, tie, coat and pocket square.  It’s busy, but it works remarkably well.
Note that each pattern varies in scale from those next to it.  The busy (but beautiful!) coat is grounded by the simple, bold stripe of the shirt.  The contrasts with the shirt in both pattern and texture with small white dots on a burgundy ground.  The ivory pocket square matches nothing in the rest of the outfit, but it’s a comfortable neutral between the earth-toned neutrals of the jacket and the white neutrals of the shirt and tie.
This is a lot of moving parts.  AP-level stuff.  I don’t recommend this for the beginner or the faint of heart.  I’m not even sure it looks better than would something a little simpler.  Greg looks absolutely wonderful, though, doesn’t he?

Greg in Phoenix demonstrates some astonishing derring-do in this combination of shirt, tie, coat and pocket square.  It’s busy, but it works remarkably well.

Note that each pattern varies in scale from those next to it.  The busy (but beautiful!) coat is grounded by the simple, bold stripe of the shirt.  The contrasts with the shirt in both pattern and texture with small white dots on a burgundy ground.  The ivory pocket square matches nothing in the rest of the outfit, but it’s a comfortable neutral between the earth-toned neutrals of the jacket and the white neutrals of the shirt and tie.

This is a lot of moving parts.  AP-level stuff.  I don’t recommend this for the beginner or the faint of heart.  I’m not even sure it looks better than would something a little simpler.  Greg looks absolutely wonderful, though, doesn’t he?

How a bespoke necktie is made (Men’s Flair)
It’s On Sale!
Churchill dot bowtie from Land’s End.  A simple bowtie.  Easy to wear (for a bowtie).  Land’s End ties are pretty decent, too.  And you can always return it to Sears.
$28, from $35 on LandsEnd.com

It’s On Sale!

Churchill dot bowtie from Land’s End.  A simple bowtie.  Easy to wear (for a bowtie).  Land’s End ties are pretty decent, too.  And you can always return it to Sears.

$28, from $35 on LandsEnd.com

A wool tie, like the above from Howard Yount, can add some texture to your ensemble.  Whether that texture is intended to compliment a flannel or contrast with a worsted, it’s welcome in the cooler months. The warmer texture also gives the colors a richer, more lived-in appearance, making this silver-gray much less sharp than its silk equivalent.
Photo by Marco

A wool tie, like the above from Howard Yount, can add some texture to your ensemble.  Whether that texture is intended to compliment a flannel or contrast with a worsted, it’s welcome in the cooler months. The warmer texture also gives the colors a richer, more lived-in appearance, making this silver-gray much less sharp than its silk equivalent.

Photo by Marco