Put This On

A web series about dressing like a grownup

Why the Four-In-Hand?
Since we released episode three of Put This On last week, certain people have asked: “why is the four-in-hand the only tie knot you need to know?”  What about the (Pratt, Windsor, Half-Windsor, Knot Geek Knot, Meat-and-Two-Veg, &c.)?
Well, I’ll tell you why.
First, though: a caveat.  While no man needs to wear a bow-tie during the day, if you are planning on donning black tie, you will need to know how to tie a bow tie.  Or at least how to budget an hour of time to figure it out before you leave the house.
Back to long ties.
Most who have written have told me that the four-in-hand is too sloppy, lopsided, or small to be suitable.  This, of course, presumes that symmetry, neatness and large size are desirable in a necktie knot.  They are not.
Regarding size: if you’re wearing a good tie, the four-in-hand will be plenty large for any collar.  If you prefer, you can double it (once more around) for extra beefiness.  There’s no need for big fat Stuart Scott monstrosities under the chin; you’ll look like a buffoon.
Regarding neatness and symmetry: a necktie knot should never be neat.  A necktie knot should be expressive.  It should be human.  As Glenn O’Brien puts it, “Real elegance involves impeccable taste and a peccable sense of nonchalance.”  And everyone who’s anyone agrees with us.
So: play around with the Pratt or the Half-Windsor.  Come back to the four-in-hand.  The one that matters.

Why the Four-In-Hand?

Since we released episode three of Put This On last week, certain people have asked: “why is the four-in-hand the only tie knot you need to know?”  What about the (Pratt, Windsor, Half-Windsor, Knot Geek Knot, Meat-and-Two-Veg, &c.)?

Well, I’ll tell you why.

First, though: a caveat.  While no man needs to wear a bow-tie during the day, if you are planning on donning black tie, you will need to know how to tie a bow tie.  Or at least how to budget an hour of time to figure it out before you leave the house.

Back to long ties.

Most who have written have told me that the four-in-hand is too sloppy, lopsided, or small to be suitable.  This, of course, presumes that symmetry, neatness and large size are desirable in a necktie knot.  They are not.

Regarding size: if you’re wearing a good tie, the four-in-hand will be plenty large for any collar.  If you prefer, you can double it (once more around) for extra beefiness.  There’s no need for big fat Stuart Scott monstrosities under the chin; you’ll look like a buffoon.

Regarding neatness and symmetry: a necktie knot should never be neat.  A necktie knot should be expressive.  It should be human.  As Glenn O’Brien puts it, “Real elegance involves impeccable taste and a peccable sense of nonchalance.”  And everyone who’s anyone agrees with us.

So: play around with the Pratt or the Half-Windsor.  Come back to the four-in-hand.  The one that matters.

It’s On eBay
Arnys Paisley Necktie
Starts at $19.99, ends Thursday

It’s On eBay

Arnys Paisley Necktie

Starts at $19.99, ends Thursday

I’m in Martha’s Vineyard… so what am I up to?  Thrifting, of course.  The above were $1, total.

I’m in Martha’s Vineyard… so what am I up to? Thrifting, of course. The above were $1, total.

ethosophical asked: What tie knot(s) should I use and when should I use them?

Q and Answer: How Should I Tie My Tie?

You should use the four-in-hand knot.  It suits any type of collar, is formal enough but not too fussy, and has been favored by the most stylish men for nearly a century now.  The Windsors, it should be said, uniformly use it.

If you’re shorter and your tie longer, or if you prefer a larger knot, you can use the double four in hand.  This is simple enough - just circle your tie around twice, rather than once, before passing it behind, up over and through.

If you require a large knot for a very spread collar, or if you prefer symmetry to style, the half-Windsor knot is acceptable, though not recommended.  The full Windsor knot is for dicks.

The tip of your tie should roughly meet your belt buckle.  It shouldn’t be any shorter than the top of your belt line, and shouldn’t reach beyond your belt line.

When possible, the two blades of your tie should be the same length.  This will typically depend on your height, of course, unless you choose custom ties.  Some very stylish men have worn the rear blade longer than the front, sometimes tucking it into their waistband.  This is pretty great, but it’s also a Sartorial Power Move.

There’s no need to place the rear blade of the tie in its keeper.  That’s a little fussy.

“[Being well-dressed is] not a question of having the world’s largest wardrobe, and certainly not an elaborate one. It’s a matter of the right clothes, clothes that illustrate the inspiration and taste of the man wearing them. The aim is a relaxed elegance, a nonchalant nod towards a simple refinement.” — Just one of a pile of insights from Michael Drake of Drake’s on the details of style.
David emails to let us know that in looking for eccentric tie accessories, stock pins are worth considering.  They’re used for pinning ties for the riders of show horses, and you can find them quite cheaply online.

David emails to let us know that in looking for eccentric tie accessories, stock pins are worth considering.  They’re used for pinning ties for the riders of show horses, and you can find them quite cheaply online.

Bow Tie Thursday
Josh writes:
I wore a bowtie for the first time in December. Learning to tie it made me feel a lot more refined, and I thought it was a dapper selection to go with a sweater. I have since purchased a few more bowties, and got some guff at work at first. The guff slowly morphed into admiration (which was likely there the whole time, only clouded by the fake guff), so much that now my cohorts have joined me in the bowtie fraternity. I taught them all to tie one, and now we are in the grand tradition of bowtie Thursday. We go out for lunch together, it’s a fun time.
I recommend bowtie Thursday to all as a return to gentlemen acting as gentlemen. The only important thing is to make sure that the bowtie is not treated as a funny selection.
Well done, Josh! 
It’s important to enjoy the clothes you wear.  Many men are self-conscious about doing anything that might suggest they care about their appearance.  Let go of that hangup!  Have fun looking good.  If you enjoy it without pretense, others will come along for the ride.
(PS: I love the expressiveness of this bow, but if it were me, I might shorten it just a bit so the tie ends up a bit smaller.)

Bow Tie Thursday

Josh writes:

I wore a bowtie for the first time in December. Learning to tie it made me feel a lot more refined, and I thought it was a dapper selection to go with a sweater. I have since purchased a few more bowties, and got some guff at work at first. The guff slowly morphed into admiration (which was likely there the whole time, only clouded
by the fake guff), so much that now my cohorts have joined me in the bowtie fraternity. I taught them all to tie one, and now we are in the grand tradition of bowtie Thursday. We go out for lunch together, it’s a fun time.

I recommend bowtie Thursday to all as a return to gentlemen acting as gentlemen. The only important thing is to make sure that the bowtie is not treated as a funny selection.

Well done, Josh! 

It’s important to enjoy the clothes you wear.  Many men are self-conscious about doing anything that might suggest they care about their appearance.  Let go of that hangup!  Have fun looking good.  If you enjoy it without pretense, others will come along for the ride.

(PS: I love the expressiveness of this bow, but if it were me, I might shorten it just a bit so the tie ends up a bit smaller.)

This, from “Old Dog,” is a wonderful example of a well-matched combination of patterns and colors.  The solid-color knit tie allows Old Dog to wear a bolder blue striped shirt.  Note that the color, type of pattern and scale are all different on the shirt and coat.  The bolder blue of the shirt and purple/yellow of the square make an outfit built around tan and brown feel Spring-y.

This, from “Old Dog,” is a wonderful example of a well-matched combination of patterns and colors.  The solid-color knit tie allows Old Dog to wear a bolder blue striped shirt.  Note that the color, type of pattern and scale are all different on the shirt and coat.  The bolder blue of the shirt and purple/yellow of the square make an outfit built around tan and brown feel Spring-y.

Josh sent along this link to the new suits of the England national soccer team, by the department store Marks & Spencer.  It’s a simple, very contemporary (they claim it’s “timeless,” but these suits will scream 2009 in five years), very good-looking kit.  Makes me wish I had a good reason to wear something with a crest on it.
The one thing I’d criticize about the looks are the ties.  I’d vastly prefer twill or grenadine to satin, just to get a little bit of texture into a monochromatic look.  Looking at the styling for the shoot, I’d also prefer better tie knots - I think a four-in-hand would be much more at home with these slim lapels than the monstrosities on these guys’ necks, and I’d like to see some dimples.  The shirts are also an unusual choice - I think they’re fine in the context of a uniform, but I wouldn’t choose this color very often otherwise.
Still, it reminds us that most men look great in a suit that fits, even a relatively inexpensive one.

Josh sent along this link to the new suits of the England national soccer team, by the department store Marks & Spencer.  It’s a simple, very contemporary (they claim it’s “timeless,” but these suits will scream 2009 in five years), very good-looking kit.  Makes me wish I had a good reason to wear something with a crest on it.

The one thing I’d criticize about the looks are the ties.  I’d vastly prefer twill or grenadine to satin, just to get a little bit of texture into a monochromatic look.  Looking at the styling for the shoot, I’d also prefer better tie knots - I think a four-in-hand would be much more at home with these slim lapels than the monstrosities on these guys’ necks, and I’d like to see some dimples.  The shirts are also an unusual choice - I think they’re fine in the context of a uniform, but I wouldn’t choose this color very often otherwise.

Still, it reminds us that most men look great in a suit that fits, even a relatively inexpensive one.