Put This On

The Most Versatile Knit Tie

Jake over at Wax Wane already wrote about black silk knit ties this week, but I thought I’d give them another plug anyway. Black is, unexpectedly, one of the most versatile colors for knit ties. Better than the standard go-to colors for neckwear, such as brown, burgundy, and bottle green. Better even than the always wearable navy. The black silk knit was perhaps most famously worn by the literary version of James Bond, who was often described by Ian Fleming as wearing a dark suit, clean white shirt, and a “thin, black silk knitted tie.” It’s also heavily associated with other mid-century icons such as the fellas in The Rat Pack. In fact, one of the first ties I bought as an undergraduate student was a black silk knit, precisely because I thought Sammy Davis Jr. looked so great in them.

You can wear almost anything with a black silk knit tie: brown tweeds, navy jackets, or grey suits paired with white or light blue shirts in solids, stripes, or checks (knit ties are especially nice with checks). Given that many men today want to wear a tie without looking too formal, the black silk knit is about as good as you can get. Versatile in color; casual in form.

There are many places to score one. On the high-end, we have Drake’s, who makes them in a rather unique weave. They’re also commonly found at traditional American haberdasheries, such as Ben Silver, Brooks Brothers, and J. Press (the last of which is having a 25% off sale right now). Additionally, Howard Yount, Kent Wang, and Sid Mashburn sell them for between $60 and $75. For more affordable options, consider Land’s End and KJ Beckett. The stock at Land’s End doesn’t include black right now, but they regularly restock their knit tie inventory in wide range of colors and their navy blue’s more like a midnight blue. If you join their mailing list, you’ll be notified of when they do their 30-40% off sales (which happens a few times a season). That will knock down the price of their knit ties to something around $25. Not bad for a tie you can wear with almost anything. 

We Got it for Free: The Tie Bar’s Grenafaux

The Tie Bar recently released a line of solid-colored, textures silk neckties that vaguely resemble grenadines. These aren’t true grenadines; they just somewhat look like them from a few feet away. Curious about the quality, I contacted Greg Shugar, one of the co-founders of the company, to see if he would be interested in sending me one for review. It arrived last month and I’ve worn it a few times since.

The tie is better than what one might expect. It compares well to the mass-manufactured neckties you might find in a department store – the Perry Ellises, Tommy Hilfigers, Calvin Kleins, and the like. To be sure, I don’t think any of these brands make particularly nice ties, but I appreciate that The Tie Bar has a bit more honest pricing - $15 for such a tie, rather than $50 in a department store, regularly discounted to $35, then $25, then $20, in hopes that customers think they’re getting a steal.

Obviously, a $15 tie will have its limitations. The grenafaux they sent me lacks the body on a truly, well-made tie, and the fabric has a slight sheen to it. It’s a bit light and flimsy, and not particularly enjoyable to knot. On the upside, the interlining is a wool-poly blend, which isn’t as ideal as a pure wool interlining, but at least it dimples better than a tie lined with polyester, and the wrinkles fall out a bit more easily at the end of the day.

It’s become a bit of a cliché, but I strongly believe in the “buy less, buy better” philosophy. Better one tie from EG Cappelli than three from Brooks Brothers, and better one from Brooks Brothers than three from Alfani. Men don’t need as much clothing as they think do, and if they traded many of their purchases for nicer things, I think they’d be left more satisfied. The most affordable grenadines I know of are from Chipp2 ($47.50) and The Knottery ($55). After that, there’s Kent Wang ($75), Sam Hober ($80), J Press ($90), Henry Carter ($100), Drake’s, Vanda, and EG Cappelli (~$120). I would feel more comfortable recommending any of these - or even a non-grenadine from a mid-tier maker - over The Tie Bar.

At the same time, I remember there was once a point in my life when I couldn’t afford a $50 necktie. It wasn’t that I was being stingy; it’s just that all my money went to rent, food, and my education. For people who on a truly tight budget, but still wish to dress well, I think The Tie Bar’s grenafux ties are an option. They’re not the best ties in the world, but I couldn’t say someone would look terrible for wearing one. As you can see above, it does indeed kind of look like a grenadine, and The Thrifty Gent wore one a few weeks ago and still looked pretty sharp. Plus, if you needed to skimp on your wardrobe, it would better to cut out $50 from your necktie wardrobe than, say, footwear. There, $50 could mean the difference between full-grain leather shoes and corrected grain, the latter of which you should never buy.

My standard recommendation for affordable neckties remains the same: Land’s End and Brooks Brothers once they hit their sales. They usually discount stuff to under $40 a few times a season. If you can’t afford those, try thrift stores or eBay. If you don’t have the time, however, then consider The Tie Bar’s grenafaux. I still believe people should buy the best they can afford – as they’ll be happier in the long run – but the same can be said about buying what you can afford, and not spending outside of your means. 

(Pictured above, from left to right: The Tie Bar’s grenafaux, Drake’s navy grenadine, E.G. Cappelli blue grenadine)

It’s On Sale: Men’s Accessories

Linkson Jack, a relatively new online purveyor of high-quality men’s accessories, is having a sale from now until Sunday. Until then, you can take 20% off any order over $80 with the coupon code TWENTY. This is on top of the 20% discount for non-EU customers, since they don’t have to pay European taxes.

The code works on everything except fountain pens and bespoke boxes. Particularly nice are Linkson’s enamel cufflinks and oxhorn accessories. This ox horn comb, for example, comes in at just under $20 with the discount. Ox horn is a great material for combs not just because it looks better, but also because it’s less likely to snag your hair.

I’m probably most excited about the stock of E&G Cappelli ties, however. Lightly lined and beautifully handcrafted, E&G Cappelli ties are some of the best in the world. These usually retail north of $115, but are on sale for about $80 with the discount. A wonderful way to get score some basic grenadines, repp ties, and wool ties at an excellent price for this level of quality. I particularly like the navy grenadine and wool grey tie you see above. 

The Silver Necktie

Commonly recommended colors for neckties include the darker shades of blue, brown, green, and red, but rarely do you see mentions of silver or grey. Silver or grey, however, are some of the best colors you can wear with navy suits. And while fewer and fewer men have the occasion to wear suits these days, when they do, navy is a good stand-by, so having a few silver or grey neckties on hand is a good idea.

For formal occasions, such as weddings, one can wear silver silk herringbones, grey grenadines, or something that looks close enough to grey from a distance, such as black and white Shepherd’s checks or glen plaids. To take the level down a notch, try a softer, less shiny material, such as the cashmere or wool varieties you see above. These can be worn with worsted suits in the fall to give your look a more autumnal touch. A step further down still would be something like the silver tie here with off-white and red repp stripes. Again, I find stripes to generally be less dressy than silk ties with small, repeating geometrics, and the one you see above can be worn with either navy suits or grey trousers with navy sport coats. The key is to make sure the grey of your tie doesn’t match too closely to the grey of your trousers.

Of all my grey ties, the one I find most useful – though not always the most worn (that would go to all the others featured here) – is the silver grenadine. It’s really the perfect tie for formal occasions, leaving you with one less thing to worry about when you have to get dressed for a wedding or fancy evening out. A navy suit worn with a crisp, semi-spread collar shirt; pair of freshly polished black oxford shoes; and silver grenadine is as foolproof of a combination as you can get. 

A dimple is certainly not required when wearing a tie, but I think it usually looks better with than without. Generally speaking, the higher quality the tie, the better the dimple. That’s because the materials used, both for the outer shell and inside lining, will affect how well the tie will curve.

I’ve also found that many times, though not always, a better dimple can be produced using the double four-in-hand knot, like you see here on our friend Mistah Wong. Whether you can use this knot depends on how high your trousers are and how long your tie hangs. You always want both ends of the tie to be no further than three inches or so apart from each other, and for the front blade to end at about the middle of your belt. Obviously, these things don’t have to be exact, but those are the general guidelines, and you may not want to have the tie end at your sternum just for the sake of having a nicer dimple. Unless you’re Bryan Ferry, anyway. 

(Photo above by Most Exerent)

Seven Things Better Bought Used

It’s sometimes easier to buy new, but there are some things that are pretty much always better bought used. Here’s our list of seven.

1. Peacoats Every designer in the world has “riffed” on the pea coat, but the original is still the best. The heavy melton wool has protected sailors from the elements on-ship for decades, and it’ll protect you from pretty much anything. Best of all, vintage pea coats are freely available both from local vintage shops and online vendors. I love the ones from the 1940s-1960s, but it’s hard to go wrong. Remember that they’re sized to fit over heavy sweaters, and expect to pay $50-100.
2. Cufflinks  There was a time when men wore suits, and with them, double-cuff shirts. So just about every man had cufflinks. That time has mostly passed.
   The result is a market glut of links. Go on eBay any day of the week and you’ll find literally thousands of pairs, from costume to fine jewelry… 1970s to 1890s. We prefer double-sided links here at PTO, and you’ll find plenty at any estate jeweler or vintage seller. Try Edwardian eight-carat gold, or enamel from the Art Deco era. Or grab yourself a cheap pair of Swank novelty links from the 1960s. Get some shirt studs while you’re at it. They’ll all be much cheaper on the second-hand market than new.
3. Formal Wear  Unlike most men’s styles, formal wear has remained largely static since it was codified at the beginning of the 20th century. That means that if you can find a conservatively-styled tuxedo from almost any era, it will be right at home today. The bonus: it’ll probably be better-made than all but the finest new equivalents. With a bit of diligence, you can find a great tuxedo for a hundred dollars or less.
4. Knock-Around Ties  Once you have a basic wardrobe of ties - a few solids, a few basics - you’ll find yourself wishing for novelty. Unless you’re shopping the highest end of the market, you’ll find plenty of functional ties at your local consignment or thrift stores for pennies on the dollar. Get a sense of the difference between a fine tie and a poor one, and don’t settle for less than decent… but once you’ve done that, go wild. There’s no shame in a necktie wardrobe filled out at $10 each, rather than $100.
5. Watches A fine watch is a status symbol these days, when most men just wear a thirty-dollar quartz model on their wrist. Luckily, there’s a vintage option for almost any budget. Handsome mechanical watches from lesser-known brands are easily available for $50 or so second-hand. You can buy a beautiful Longines or Hamilton for a hundred or two. Kick it up to five hundred and there’s a pile of gorgeous Omegas within your grasp. And of course if you bump it into the thousands, there are many more choices, almost all for less than new.
   Try paging through the buy-and-sell forums of watch enthusiast communities like WatchUSeek and TimeZone, or visit a reputable jeweler in your town. Heck - if you’re buying something cheap, just take a flier on eBay. No matter what, you’ll get a more distinctive piece at a better price.
6. Cashmere Sweaters  For a variety of reasons, cashmere’s gone downhill in the last twenty years or so. The good stuff has a smoother, tighter, denser finish… and you’ll only find it second-hand. The good news is that second-hand cashmere knits rarely go for more than $50-100 each. If it’s in good shape (be diligent), it can literally last a lifetime.
7. Hats Men’s hats have declined precipitously not just in popularity, but also in quality. Low-end hats from the middle of the last century are as good as the high-end hats you’ll buy in a department store today. There are a few fine makers left, mostly making custom hats, but even once-fine brands like Borsalino and Stetson now make mediocre, expensive products. Vintage hats, though, are inexpensive, freely available (another supply/demand thing) and often of very fine quality. Great hats effortlessly hold their shape without being stiff, and feel fine to the hand. Expect to pay between $50 and $200 for something really good.

(Thanks to PTO twitter followers @D_Lippy, @frivmo, @voxsartoria, @platypusjones, @prairie_oysters, @SkySwartout, @HoffM, @TheMikeSwartz, @TheS_P500 and more for your ideas!)

Photos: Peacoat by Resheie54 , Cufflinks Simon James, Tux Stephen Depolo, Watch Guy Sie, Ties Brian Johnson, Cashmere Stolte-Sawa Hat David D

Pinning a Tie 

I was cleaning out my dresser’s drawers the other day when I came across an old collar pin I bought a couple of years ago. Collar pins look like big safety pins, and they’re used to add shape to a collar and help arch a necktie. Some men also repurpose them as tie clips. That is, they use them to fasten their neckties to their shirts so that their ties don’t flip around in the wind or get too close their lunch. 

The problem with this, of course, is that the pin will leave holes. This is less of an issue with shirts because the holes will disappear after a trip to the laundry (though I’ll admit I only used my pin with older, less valued shirts). Ties, on the other hand, are more problematic. A wooly cashmere tie might hide a hole better if it’s dark, but on a smoother silk, poking a hole though might be less well advised. I personally only used mine with silk knits, and only of the kind that had a looser weave, so that the pin essentially could slip through without damaging any of the material. 

The combination of these two requirements - to be only used with old shirts and silk knit ties - meant that I rarely used my pin. Even when I got around to it, it felt a bit too dandy for my taste. So it mostly sat in this drawer, forgotten until I got around to cleaning this weekend. 

Still, there are men who wear them extraordinarily well. One of the best living examples is Beppe Modenese, who is often seen wearing a tie pinned to his shirt. The effect, I think, is quite debonair and underscores Beppe’s strong sense of personal style. Nothing says carefree like a big ol’ pin speared through your clothes. 

I bought my pin at Brooks Brothers, but you can also get them for about half the price on Amazon. For something even cheaper, search around for “kilt safety pins.” Those look to be more or less the same, though I’ve never handled them personally. On the upside, however, they’re only $5, which means you won’t lose out on too much if yours ends up sitting in a drawer for a few years. 

Choosing the Right Tie

There are a number of things you should consider when choosing a tie: the kind of outfit you’ll be wearing, the environment you’ll be in, the time of day, the season, and perhaps even the weather. Some of these should be intuitive. For example, a brightly colored tie is obviously less serious and somber than a dark one. Thus, it should be worn in the morning, in the summer, or to casual events. Similarly, a dark woolen tie might be better for cloudy, casual days in the fall or winter, or maybe when you’re in the country, while a dark, quietly patterned, heavy silk twill would be better for business offices. The general principles here are simple: bright or light colors, matte materials, and bold patterns are casual; dark colors, shiny silks, and conservative patterns are more formal.

Other things are slightly less intuitive. For example, a printed pattern may be considered slightly more formal than one that has had its pattern woven in. Take a navy silk twill, for instance, with a small repeating floral pattern. If the pattern is printed on, it can be used for business meetings. If it’s woven in, the subtle texture might make it more appropriate for cocktail parties.

You should also consider the pattern type. To my mind, stripes look more at home with sport coats and blazers, and are best worn in casual work environments such as college campuses. On the other hand, a tie with a small repeating pattern, such as the floral or figured patterns you see above, are probably better with smooth, worsted wool suits, the kind you’d wear if you were working in law or finance. In other words, a dressier tie for a dressier ensemble. 

Of course, these aren’t hard and fast rules. Some Macclesfield neats (a term sometimes used for ties with small repeating patterns) can be worn with sport coats, and a repp striped tie can sometimes be worn with the right suit and shirt for a very American look. Moreover, some events call for their own ties altogether. In my opinion, the best ties for weddings include black and white glen plaids or Shepard’s checks. Despite being a bit bolder in its pattern, they look very tasteful with a white shirt, navy suit, and black oxford shoes. In the end, you should judge what works with your own eye and intuition. That’s what makes choosing the right tie more of an art than a science. 

A mini-tour of An Uptown Dandy’s Holland & Holland ties.

Q and Answer: When Can I Wear a Tie Without a Jacket?

David asks: Just recently found your blog, and it’s a go-to for me everyday.  I do have a question.  You are adamant about the “tie with jacket only rule.”  I am a history teacher at a suburban high school in upstate New York.  The school has neither proper heating nor cooling, and I am constantly on my feet, walking around, at the front of the room, helping kids etc.  So when is it OK for me to take my jacket off and roll up my sleeves?

When I wrote this piece on 25 things you should know, there was a bit of controversy surrounding my suggestion that you shouldn’t wear a tie without a jacket. A fair amount of controversy, actually. But I wrote it advisedly, so let me offer you some guidelines.

First of all, it’s perfectly appropriate, in the course of work, to take off your coat. I myself take off my coat when I arrive at the office, and hang it on a coat rack. Most people who work in situations that demand a tie also work in situations that require them to sit frequently, and sitting wears unnecessarily on your coat. If I go out, or meet a colleague, or get cold, I put my coat back on. Generally, though, it’s off. That’s fine.

There are a few reasons it’s better to wear a coat. The first is that you will look better. Unless you happen to be Ryan Lochte, your physique will generally be more flattered by a coat than a shirt. It also makes you look “finished,” as though you’re fully dressed, prepared. A bit of variety and layering also makes almost any outfit look better.

But if you have some reason to take your coat off, no one will begrudge you. Taking a long walk in the sun? Carry your coat. (Short walks are often cooler with a seasonally-appropriate coat shading you.) Digging a ditch? Take off your coat. That’s fine. It’s like wearing your hat in a train station - the activity trumps the normal etiquette.

The question comes in when you are dressing with a tie but without a coat.

Ask yourself: why am I doing this? What is the occasion that demands the formality of a tie but doesn’t require a coat? Besides transitory situations (sitting at your desk, digging a ditch, eating soup), why would you need to wear a tie but not a coat?

The answer is pretty much “I work at a cell phone store.”

Which is not a good look.

Now, there’s a certain semi-ironic aesthetic that peaked a couple years ago that alludes to the (work-engaged, desk-sitting) necktied nerd of the 1960s. The NASA engineer look. It usually involves an extremely slim shirt and trousers, a skinny tie, and a tie clip. The sleeves are typically short or rolled (an allusion to those engineers-at-work). In warm weather, this look has no coat.

While I’d say that the style’s a little stale, fashion-wise, it looked fine on some people. Mostly very skinny ones who could pull off the irony. I sincerely had no beef with these people. Have no beef with these people - I’m sure there are people who look fine in this outfit even now. The truth is, though, that 99% of the guys wearing ties without coats in America today look like yutzes.

The simple solution is simple. If you’re wearing a coat, and the situation demands it, wear a tie. If you’re not, and it doesn’t, don’t. There’s no need to put the cart before the horse.