Put This On

Dealing with Bad Weather

Every year starts off with a few months of bad weather. First there is snow, then the snow turns to slush, and finally the slush gives way to showers. Depending on where you live, these conditions can put a real beating on your clothes, so it’s good to know how to best take care of them.

Salt Stains on Shoes

The best care is preventative. There are a number of treatments that can give your shoes a superficial layer of protection. Use a thin layer of wax polish on calf leather dress shoes and mink oil lotion on work or hiking boots (you can buy both at most shoe repair shops). Note that you don’t want to use mink oil on dress shoes; if you do, your shoes will never take a proper shine.

For added protection, use a pair of overshoes. Swims makes an attractive flocked version that slips on easily, while Tingley makes a very affordable (albeit less attractive) model. You can read Jesse’s review of Tingley here.

If you’ve picked up salt stains despite these measures, however, you need to treat them as soon as you get home. Mix one part vinegar to two parts water (or half and half for more serious stains). Brush off your shoes with a horsehair brush to remove any dirt, then dab a soft towel in the solution and gently use it to wipe off the stain. Once you’re done, use a clean damp towel to wipe off any vinegar residue. Leave it to dry for 30 minutes and repeat as needed. You want to work through this slowly, patiently, and gently; rubbing too hard can also damage your shoes. Once you’ve gotten the stain out, apply leather conditioner, polish, and wax again so that they’re protected next time you use them.

If the salt has raised the leather on your shoes (ie given it a welt), use a bottom end of a spoon and press down on the leather.

Drenched Shoes

If you’ve been going through a downpour, your shoes are probably soaked through. Again, the best care is preventative, so follow the steps above. You can also spray a suede protectant on suede. Suede should be fine in the rain, though I wouldn’t advise using it in the snow.

Once you get home, stuff your shoes with newspaper and lay them on their side (as the soles need to dry the most). You may want to change the paper every few hours just to make it effective. After they’re dry, stick unvarnished cedar shoe trees in them and leave them alone for two days so they can fully recover. Resist any temptation to set them near a heater. Doing so will only dry out and crack the leather.

Mold

If wet clothes or umbrellas aren’t allowed to dry properly, they’re at risk of developing mold. Once mold grows, they can develop a smell that can be very, very difficult to get out.

To prevent this, brush off your jackets or coats with a clothes brush once you get home. I use a separate brush for this from the one I regularly use to clean my clothes. Once the snow or water has been brushed off, hang your garment on a sturdy wooden hanger (ideally with wide shoulders) and leave it in an area with good air circulation.

For umbrellas, gently shake them out a bit, but be careful not to ruin the ribs. Once you’ve gotten most of the snow or water off, leave them completely open and let them dry in a place with good air circulation. Again, don’t set them near heaters, however, as you risk damaging the canopy. Most umbrellas are made with materials that are designed to dry quickly, so this shouldn’t take too long. Once it’s dry, neatly furl the umbrella and store it away.

It’s On Sale: Swaine Adeney Umbrella

Over at J. Peterman, they’re offering Swaine Adeney Brigg umbrellas at close to half price - just under $200. If you’re not a man who loses his umbrellas, this is about as good as it gets for as good a price as you’ll find.

$187 from $350 at J. Peterman (use code jpten for 10% off)

Brooks Brothers “Friends and Family” sale starts in just two weeks, on May 5th. It’s unclear what the discounts will be, but you should expect them to range between 25% and 40%. If you open a Brooks Brothers corporate card, you’ll also get an additional 15% discount. Thus, there will be some good deals to be had. 

In searching for items for myself, I thought I’d write a bit about some items you might also want to consider. In addition to these linen shirts I covered last week, they also have other summer staples, such as a mariner striped sweater, cotton blazer, and some slim fit chinos. I also really like these glen plaid trousers, their pink OCBD, and this Gregory trench coat. 

I think chukka boots make for great year round wear, but I especially like them in the summer and fall seasons. Brooks has some that are a bit less blobby looking than Clarks desert boots, and I think at steep discount, they’re quite a steal. You can get them in calf leather, suede, or canvas. 

Lastly, I recommend taking a look at some of their accessories. This leather watchband is quite handsome, as is their engined-turned tie bar and plaid umbrellas. I also think every man should have an engine turned slide buckle. My father gave me his, and it has his initials engraved on it; it’s one of the nicest things you can pass on. They also have some of the best summer belts - a braided, surcingle, and woven-surcingle. I have the braided one and couldn’t be happier with it. 

Stop by a Brooks when you have time and see if anything strikes your fancy. If you do find something, ask a sales associate if they’ll hold it for you until the sale starts. I’ve had reasonably good luck with that strategy, and it’s a great way to make sure you get the items you want, at a price that’s affordable. 

About two months ago, I wrote about Francesco Maglia, a bespoke umbrella maker based out of Milan. After my post, a few people sent me messages asking if I had suggestions for more affordable options. Buying a $700-1,000 umbrella isn’t practical for most people, after all. So, I wrote this piece, which covered four different umbrellas at various price tiers, and I thought it was received with some success. 

A month after I wrote that round up, I came across a Totes umbrella at a local boutique. It was $16, full-sized, and looked handsome enough. I already have four umbrellas, but I decided to purchase this Totes just so I could write about whether there was a good $16 option to be had. 

So for the past month, I’ve been using this Totes, and I can say - it’s surprisingly good. At $16, most of the options you’ll find are crappy, compact umbrellas that neither cover very much of you or last for very long. This Totes, on the other hand, is big enough to cover your back and sturdy enough to last a few seasons. 

Belt Outlet is selling it for $14.40. Punch in belt10 for a 10% off discount, and with shipping, the total will be $17.  Now, I still think the upper tier umbrellas I wrote about in my original round up are better. If you live in a very windy area, I recommend you opt for one of those instead. However, if you’re not suffering through high winds, or if you’re prone to constantly losing things, this $17 Totes might be your best option. 

If you decide to get one, read this article by The Armoury on how to properly furl a full-sized umbrella. Doing it the right way will not only help keep your umbrella intact, but also look infinitely better.

It’s On eBay

Swaine Adeney Brigg Umbrella with Custom Canopy

OMG you guys. This is basically the greatest umbrella ever.

Buy It Now for $250

It’s On Sale

Swaine Adeney Brigg Umbrella

$234 from $350 at J. Peterman

I strongly recommend you avoid visiting the website of Drake’s of London.  If your resolve is weak, you may be drawn into a world of sartorial fantasy which your lifestyle and income cannot support.  Not that this has ever happened to me, of course.

Q and Answer

Matt writes:

It’s going to start raining soon. I’m wondering if you could recommend where I could purchase a quality umbrella. Not the crappy CVS thing from china for 5 bucks but an umbrella that will stand the test of time.
We’re all for things that stand the test of time.  If you’re not the type to leave your umbrellas in umbrella stands at bars when the weather clears up while you’re drinking, there are a lot of great options for you.  So despite the fact that we live in Funky LA, where rain is a once-a-year miracle, we’ll give you some suggestions.

The classic British umbrella is Swaine Adeney Brigg.  They’re expensive (about $300), but they’re made to your specifications in silk, rather than nylon.  Another English company, James Smith & Sons, has a reputation for umbrellas that are as good as SAB, but at a significantly lower price.  Still expensive, though, at $200 or so.
Right here in God’s United States of America you can take a look at the extensive options available at Brooks Brothers, including some spectacular (and spectacularly expensive) stripes.  For $175, you can buy a lovely chestnut-handled brella from Howard Yount, perhaps even one like the photo above.
Rain or Shine in New York sell nothing but umbrellas, so they can guide you towards the highest quality pieces in the under-$100 range.  I personally have two umbrellas - a huge all-black golf umbrella I bought at Costco for truly heinous weather, and a plaid with a wood handle I bought after Christmas last year at J Crew.
If you go with the big guys, and get some damage, there’s one man in New York City you can rely on to fix it - Gilbert Center.  And we always support fixing something rather than throwing it away.