Pitti Uomo – the menswear tradeshow that happens twice a year in Florence, Italy – just ended last week. You may have seen some of the “street style” photos floating around some menswear blogs. The look is known: bold, brightly colored plaids are seen patterning short suit jackets and tight trousers, which together are accessorized with attention-grabbing accessories. It’s not only a very specific “Pitti look,” but it’s also become something of a public face for modern Italian style.
The photo above is also from Pitti, but it features a more old-school version of Italian dress. The combination seems simple, but there’s actually a lot going on.
The obvious difference between this and other Pitti looks is that the coat and trousers are cut a little more classically. The leg is fuller and has a single break, while the coat ends about halfway between the jacket’s collar and ground. Things fit trim, but not tight.
There are also some things that give the jacket a bit of a dash. The chest is just a touch full, giving the gentleman a slightly more comfortable and relaxed appearance (otherwise known as a drape cut). Perhaps most importantly, the lapels are cut a little wider and with a very aggressive, almost concave line (contrast this to lapels that have a bit more of a “belly” to them, such as these by my tailor Steed or these on Jesse’s suit from Richard Lim).
Combined with some important details – the soft shoulder line; the light blue shirt; the soft, shapely semi-spread collar; the two-inch trouser cuffs; and the always-reliable solid-navy tie – and you have a very classic Italian look. No loud colors, patterns, or even a pocket square are necessary. It’s just about fit and subtle details.
(Photo via Journal of Style)