Put This On

eBay Roundup

Shoutout to our buddy the RJcat for throwing a bunch of eBay links our way this weekend. If you’d like to dig up more menswear finds, try using our customized search links. We’ve made them so you can easily hone-in on high-end suits, good suits, high-quality shirts and fine footwear.

Suits, sport coats, and blazers

• Glen plaid sport coat, 36
  
• Napoli Su Misura blue flannel sport coat, 37
  
• WW Chan suits, 37
  
• Navy blazer, 40
  
• Tan checked sport coat, 40
  
• Navy hopsack sport coat, 42
  
• Navy three-button suit, 42
  
• Gray windowpane suit, 42
  
• Blue silk-linen sport coat, 42
  
• Navy cashmere sport coat, 42
  
• Kiton sport coats, 42-48

Outerwear

• Black quilted jacket, S
  
• Albam mountain parka, S
  
• Suede trucker jacket, S
  
• Nigel Cabourn Everest parka, 40
  
• Ts(s) shirt jacket, M
  
• Barbour fishing jacket, M
  
• Engineered Garments parka, M
  
• Brown Casentino topcoat, 40
  
• Navy Chesterfield coat, 42
  
• Black peacoat, L
  
• RRL raincoat, L
  
• Down Eddie Bauer parka, L
  
• Woolrich Woolen Mills mountain parka, XL (pictured above)
  
• Vintage Brooks Brothers overcoat, 46

Sweaters and knits

• Grey sweatshirt, 38
  
• Belstaff mockneck sweater, L

Shirts and pants

• Pink striped shirt, 15.5
  
• Red plaid shirt, M
  
• Military shirt, XL
  
• Plaid flannel, XL

Shoes

• Tan Trickers monkey boots, 8
  
• Black Ralph Lauren engineer boots, 8
  
• White Common Projects bball high-tops (7, 8) (fits like 8 and 9)
  
• Shell Ralph Lauren tassel loafers, 9
  
• Shell Alden split toe derbys, 9
  
• Black scotch grain Trickers derbys, 9
  
• Alfred Sargent jodhpur boots, 9
  
• JM Weston split toe derbys, 9.5
  
• Tan Suede Crockett & Jones chukkas, 9.5
  
• Black Trickers shortwings, 10
  
• Shell Alden tassel loafers, 10
  
• Suede Crockett & Jones tassel loafers, 10
  
• Kapital side-zip boots, 10.5
  
• Vintage Red WIng boots, 10.5
  
• Suede JM Weston chelsea boots, 11
  
• Heschung split toe derbys, 11.5
  
• Crockett & Jones chukkas, 12
  
• Crockett & Jones quarter brogues, 12
  
• Crockett & Jones jodhpur boots, 12.5
  
• Black shell Alden bluchers, 13.5

Ties

• Red hunting crest tie
  
• Navy floral tie
  
• Brown paisley tie
  
• Charcoal tie
  
• Speckled Drake’s tie
  
• Glen check ties (1, 2)
  
• Knit ties

Bags, briefcases, and wallets

• Black Wilderness Experience backpack
  
• Leather Filson briefcase
  
• Green Kelty backpack

Misc.

• Watch cap
  
• Hermes tastevin
  
• Shaving set
  
• Nutcracker set
  
• Oyster forks
  
• Cabled beanie
  
• Navy pocket square
  
• Sunglasses
  
• Corduroy vest, S
  
• Vicuna-cashmere blend socks, ~11
  
• Teddy Roosevelt coin bank
  
• Tan casual belt, 32
  
• Cotton dress gown, S
  
• College scarf
  

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On’s Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

The Mountain Parka for Lightweight Layering

Back in the 1970s, some American college students were transitioning away from the more polished navy-blazer-oxford-button-down look of the previous decade and getting into something more rugged. The Japanese called it “Heavy Duty,” and while the name was a little tongue-in-cheek, it perfectly described the style. David Marx has a great chapter about it in his new book Ametora:

[Men’s Club columnist] Kobayashi believed that Heavy Duty and Ivy were two sides of the same coin. Both were “systems” of clothing – a wide set of traditional garments worn according to the time, place, and occasion. Inside the Ivy system, students wore blazers to class, duffle coats in the winter, three-button suits to weddings, tuxedos to parties, and school scarves to football games. Inside the Heavy Duty system, men wore LL Bean duck boots in bad weather, mountain boots when hiking, flannel shirts when canoeing, collegiate nylon windbreakers in spring, rugby shirts in fall, and cargo shirts when on the trail. In the introduction to his standalone Heavy Duty Book, Kobayashi wrote: “I call Heavy Duty ‘traditional’ because it’s the outdoor or country part of the trad clothing system. You could even say it’s the outdoor version of Ivy.” 

One of my favorite items from that period is the mountain parka, which was often worn with Shetland sweaters, jeans, chinos, and five-pocket cords. Bean boots, hiking boots, sneakers, and penny loafers made up the accompanying footwear. The style was somewhat preppy, but – perhaps because of the mountain parka’s hippie, California roots – it never really made it into the prep canon. (After eight long years and over 1,000 posts, Ivy Style has yet to do a post about the jacket). 

Given the mild winter this year, I’ve been relying more on light layering than heavy outerwear. A hooded mountain parka is not only a good way to keep dry on rainy days, but also use as an on-again, off-again layer when temperatures suddenly change. Some of my favorite models this season, from classic designs to things that are slightly more updated:

• Traditional: If you’re looking for something traditional, start with Sierra Designs. Their 60/ 40 parka is iconic, although newer versions have changed over the years (mostly in pocket design and becoming a bit shorter). The 60% cotton and 40% nylon blend isn’t as showerproof as Gore-Tex, but it’s reasonably water resistant and much more affordable. Also worth looking into: vintage parkas from old heritage brands such as LL Bean, Woolrich, Eddie Bauer, REI, Holubar, Alpine Designs, and Wilderness Experience (search eBay and Etsy). Many of those will be longer than newer designs, which means they’ll be easier to wear over a tweed sport coat. 
  
• Updated: For something a bit more updated, check out Mt. Rainier Design or Battenwear. Theirs closely follow the traditional models, but come in slimmer, more modern silhouettes. I also really like Nanamica’s Cruiser, which is made from a breathable, weatherproof Gore-Tex shell, but it’s fairly expensive.
  
• Rugged: For something that’s a bit more re-interpretative and workwear-ish, try Engineered Garments. Kapital also has a funky mountain parka in their usual Japanese upcycled style, while Free Rain makes some really nice waxed cotton models. My favorites in this category: these Monitaly parkas cut from vintage US Army tent fabrics (pretty awesome), and this old Barbour x To Ki To design that you can sometimes find on eBay. 
• Affordable: As usual, shopping on sale or buying vintage/ used is your best bet if you want something good at a low price, but if you want something that’s both affordable and easily had now, check out Penfield’s Kasson and Uniqlo. The Uniqlo one reportedly feels thin, and it’s not very water resistant, but it does the trick if you’re on a budget (maybe beef it up with a weatherproofer). There are a ton of reviews on Reddit. 

How to wear the jacket? Pair one with chinos, prickly sweaters, oxford shirts, and Bean boots, like the 1970s students pictured above. For something less preppy, try one of the rugged, workwear versions with a grey sweatshirt, some jeans, and a pair of workboots, or use one of the updated, contemporary models with a textured sweater and some clean sneakers. My own parka, the royal blue Nanamica in the last photo, is pictured with a Stephen Schneider sweater, pair of faded 3sixteen jeans, and some Common Projects b-ball high-tops. 

(photos via Porkys, Heavy Tweed Jacket, Jack Nicholls, J. Crew, Engineered Garments, Male Pattern Boldness, and me)

eBay Roundup

A big thanks to our pal the RJcat for contributing to today’s roundup (he found the Cifonelli hunting coat pictured above, among other things). Also great: this vintage pullover smock, cabled Inverallan cardigan, and pair of Edward Green chukkas. 

To dig up more menswear finds on eBay, try using our customized search links. We’ve made them so you can easily hone-in on high-end suits, good suits, high-quality shirts and fine footwear.

Suits, sport coats, and blazers

• Grey herringbone sport coat, 40
  
• Brown glen plaid sport coat, 41
  
• Tuxedo, 44
  
• Green corduroy sport coat, 46

Outerwear

• Navy mac raincoat, S
  
• RRL deck jacket, S
  
• Grey herringbone topcoat, 38
  
• Barbour tartan fishing jacket, 38
  
• Barbour x To Ki To jacket, 38
  
• J Crew deck jacket (S, M)
  
• Green Engineered Garments jacket, M
  
• Brown herringbone topcoat, M
  
• Rocky Mountain Featherbed jacket, M
  
• Charcoal chore coat, M
  
• Barbour x Norton & Sons waxed coat, M
  
• Tan double breasted coat, 40
  
• Vintage pullover smock, M
  
• Chimala pile jacket, M
  
• Nigel Cabourn Everest parka, M
  
• Aspesi field jacket, M
  
• Vintage Eddie Bauer parka, 42
  
• Nigel Cabourn Cameraman jacket, 42
  
• Engineered Garments hooded parka, L
  
• Margaret Howell green parka, L
  
• Barbour riding jacket, L
  
• Grey cabled Aran, 42
  
• Black topcoat, 42
  
• Cifonelli hunting coat, 42 (pictured above)
  
• Yellow PVC smock, L
  
• Barbour Bedale, 42
  
• Tan angora topcoat, XL
  
• Barbour motorbike jacket, XL
  
• Barbour Bedale, 44

Sweaters and knits

• Brooks Black Fleece turtleneck, S
  
• Grey cabled shawl collar cardigan, M
  
• Black SNS Herning cardigan, L
  
• Striped navy sweater, L
  
• Cream colored Aran, L
  
• Navy Inverallan cardigan, 42

Shirts and pants

• Brown glen plaid shirt, XL
  
• Flat Head jeans, 32
  
• Navy fatigues, 32
  
• Buzz Rickson chinos, 34
  
• Sugar Cane 1947 jeans, 34
  
• Brown moleskins, 34

Shoes

• Suede John Lobb split toe boots, 7
  
• Common Projects b-ball high tops, 6.5 (fits like a 7.5)
  
• Suede Crockett & Jones penny loafers, 7.5
  
• Quoddy moccasins, 8
  
• Edward Green monkstraps, 8.5
  
• Edward Green dress slip-ons, 8.5
  
• Suede Borelli med toe oxfords, 8.5
  
• Brooks Bros. split toe bluchers, 8.5
  
• Tan Ralph Lauren longwings, 9
  
• Shell Allen Edmonds penny loafers, 9
  
• Suede Crockett & Jones boots, 9.5
  
• Quoddy crepe soled boots, 10A+
  
• JM Weston split toe bluchers, 10
  
• Vintage Chuck Taylor high tops, 10
  
• Edward Green Galway boots, 10
  
• John Lobb double monkstraps, 10
  
• Shell Alden cap toe boots, 10
  
• Shell Carmina plain toe bluchers, 10.5
  
• Edward Green chukkas, 10.5
  
• Crockett & Jones shortwing boots, 10.5
  
• Brooks Bros. monkstraps, 11
  
• Edward Green split toe bluchers, 11
  
• New & Lingwood opera pumps, 11.5
  
• Visvim moc toe boots, 12
  
• Black John Lobb monkstraps, 12.5

Ties

• Green wool tie (1, 2)
  
• Black knit tie
  
• Brown dotted knit tie
  
• Striped navy ties (1, 2)

Bags, briefcases, and wallets

• RAF canvas bag
  
• Black Ghurka briefcase
  
• Grey card case
  
• Valextra card wallet
  
• Black Valextra briefcase
  
• Vintage hard sided briefcase
• Vintage suitcases
  

Misc.

• Ghurka tennis racket
  
• Cartier cufflinks
  
• Post-Golden-Age Apparel Arts issue
  
• Hermes cat print scarf
  
• Asprey cufflinks
  
• Bar measuring cups
  
• Cooperstown ball cap, 7 ¼
  
• Oxhorn corkscrew
  
• Cream colored fedora, 7
• Vintage “M” applique ballcap, size?

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On’s Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

It’s On Sale: (Almost) Everything at Need Supply

Need Supply is offering a 25% discount on (almost) everything in-stock with the checkout code EVERYONE25. Some obvious exclusions apply (no APC, Aldens, Common Projects, Visvim, or Engineered Garments). Still, that leaves plenty to be had. I like the selection of footwear, which includes brands such as Quoddy, Red Wing, Wolverine, Superga, Shoes Like Pottery, Buttero, Converse, and Vans. There’s also a suede Chelsea boot from Sanders that looks pretty nice. Shipping is free on any order over $75. 

(More) Common Projects Alternatives

Since our roundup of alternative to Common Projects last year, a few more brands have popped up on our radars. Epaulet has a new line of minimalist sneakers (along with luxury versions of German Army Trainers a la Maison Margiela), and Axel Arigato is a relatively new label offering cheaper versions of the kind of things you’d find at Sneakerboy. Even Rancourt – that preppy, Maine manufacturer – has gotten into the game. 

Unfortunately, most of these alternatives hover around the $200 to $250 price mark, which is a good deal cheaper than Common Projects, but still a lot of money. Especially for sneakers (despite the stitching you see on the sole, finding an actual cobbler who can resole these is tough). 

Recently, Gustin released what I think might be one of the best options thus far: an all-white design, made-in-Italy model, constructed from Nappa leather and stitched-on Margom soles. Price is $149, which isn’t cheap, but it’s the cheapest we’ve seen so far for this kind of construction. The shape is also nice and sleek, which I find makes them a little more versatile. If you’re going to wear sneakers with a casual suit or sport coat, it’s easier to pair them with something like this, rather than more rounded designs such as Stan Smiths or Saint Laurent Paris. 

Of course, we still have to see how they’ll age, but it’s nice to see them priced more like Nike and Adidas, rather than luxury fashion labels. If you’re looking for some clean, minimalistic sneakers, these could be a good option. They also have some made from Horween’s Chromexcel if you’re looking for something in a non-white colorway. 

Disclosure: Gustin is a sponsor of Put This On. However, this post is not paid promotion. Our editorial policies can be read here.

Trading Places

Wait, what’s going on?

Adidas just Common-Projects-fied their shoes by making an all white, minimalist version of their famous Rod Lavers (which Common Projects were originally inspired by). 

Meanwhile, Common Projects just Adidas-fied their shoes by adding some Stan Smiths-inspired branding to their famously minimalist Achilles Low. 

So are we supposed to like branding on our sneakers or not!? Tell us fashion people!

It’s on Sale: Fall 2014 at The Corner

Yoox’s retail storefront The Corner (i.e., they sell current season merchandise vs. Yoox’s outlet stock) has made its final seasonal cuts on fall 2014 goods. Some good buys left, especially in outerwear and shoes. Check out this Our Legacy bomber jacket and parka, LVC western shirt, and shoes from Yuketen and Heschung. Not surprisingly, most items are available only in a couple of sizes, and stuff like Common Projects is discounted, but not that deeply.

Bexley: Good Shoes for as Little as $110

Prices for luxury fashion items have gone through the roof in recent years, growing at more than twice the rate of general inflation. In 2005, for example, the price of Edward Greens was $700, Common Projects $250, and bespoke shoes from some of London’s most exclusive West End firms $2,750. Today, exactly ten years later, those prices hover around $1,250, $450, and $4,500 respectively. Part of this is due to rising costs in labor and materials, but a lot of it is has to do with basic supply-and-demand. There are simply more people nowadays who are willing to pay higher and higher prices. As Pete once wrote, expensive things are only getting more expensive. 

All very disheartening for those of us who care about affordability in menswear, but there are some glimmers of hope. Bexley, for example, is a thirty year-old French company that offers affordable footwear. They recently loaned me two pairs of shoes to check out – a black pair of chukkas and a brown pair of penny loafers. 

The quality of both is really impressive. The uppers are made from full-grain leathers from the very respectable Tannerie d’Annonay in France, while the soles were either Goodyear welted or Blake stitched (two methods that allow for easier resoling). The stitching was well done, lining well attached, and finishing well executed (the apron on the loafers could use a little edge burnishing, but it’s minor). All in all, the quality feels similar to Jack Erwin, which we’ve recommended in the past. 

Perhaps most impressive are the prices. For US customers, they’re $172 for the first pair and $110 for the second. At the moment, there are select pairs available on sale for $110 straight, without the need to buy another. That means good dress shoes for about the cost of good running sneakers. 

Some Drawbacks

Obviously, at this price point, there are some minor cutbacks in quality. The insoles, for example, are half-synthetic and half-leather (the forefront is 100% leather, while the back is fiberboard). A full leather insole would be more durable and comfortable over time, but as we’ve written in the past, the material used for the uppers, as well as the methods used to attach the sole, determines most of a shoe’s quality. Any detail after that tends to be minor, which is why at a certain point, a shoe’s appeal is mostly about design. On these two, the designs are simple and classic, with rounded, but shapely, toes. Bexley has more aggressive styles for those who want something more Continental. 

I do have one additional misgiving, however. At the moment, Bexley doesn’t lists their lasts on their product pages, so sizing can be a little difficult. The loafers they sent me fit true-to-size, while the chukkas could stand going a half-size down. Like with any online retailer, this will require some guesswork when you’re trying to determine your size over the internet (we have a guide to help, should you need one). If you’re looking for a pair of shoes for under $175, however, I don’t think you could do better.

It’s On Sale: Select Items at End

Here’s another great sale. This one is from our advertiser End, where select items are marked down by 50%. You can take an additional 15% off with the checkout code ALLGONE.

Some notables:

• Outerwear: Our Legacy MA-1 bomber jackets in black and green; Aspesi field jackets and puffer vests; Beams trucker jacket in brown suede; slim fitting Barbour Bedales in navy and green; and a slightly modern take on the Patagonia jacket Jesse recently wrote about. 
• Shoes: Sneakers by Common Projects, Buttero, APC, and Vans; Red Wing work boots; and brown APC boots that I wish were in my size.
• Knitwear: Fair Isle sweaters from Nigel Cabourn; slim fitting Scottish knitwear from Howlin’ by Morrison; Donegal crewnecks from APC; and some sweatshirts by Our Legacy and RRL. 
• Jeans: Stuff from Levis Vintage Clothing, RRL, and Our Legacy. 
• Shirts: Button-downs from Gitman Vintage; workshirts by RRL and Levis Vintage Clothing (Jesse says he bought this one and loves it); and some various tops from Our Legacy (I’ve been really into this label lately). 

You can check out the entire sale section here. 

It’s On Sale: Stuff at Kafka and Ledbury

Both Kafka and our advertiser Ledbury are having some nice sales right now. 

• At Kafka, there are some things from brands such as Engineered Garments, Nigel Cabourn, Common Projects, and Inis Meain. There’s also this one lonely pair of Alden shoes, which I wish were in my size. Note, customers outside of the EU can expect 20% off for VAT deduction (VAT being European taxes, which are included in the listed price). You can also knock another 20% off with the coupon code EXTRA20, which brings already discounted prices even lower. 
• Next, a good selection of shirts have been discounted at Ledbury. Included are some very basic blue Bengal stripes and graph checks, as well as seasonal brushed cottons and linens.