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If you’re looking for an alternative to blue jeans but don’t want to go up to grey flannel trousers, try the five-pocket pant. They’re built like jeans but come in a broader range of materials. Proper Cloth’s fresh batch of five-pocket pants is available in organic slub cotton and wool-cotton blends. They sit between the casualness of denim and the formality of tailoring while also having a little more flavor than the ubiquitous chino. Best of all, you can pair them with nearly anything: stout cotton sweatshirts or the fine-gauge wool-silk crewneck knits, t-shirts or oxford-cloth button-downs, waxed cotton jackets or autumnal tweeds. Since Proper Cloth is an online custom clothier, you can have these made in nearly any size. Their waist sizes range from 26 to 53; their inseams go from 26 to 44. They’re also available in five different fits—extra slim, slim, straight, athletic, and classic—to ensure you get the silhouette you want.
Wolf vs. Goat has always gone the extra mile when sourcing fabrics. Their polos are made from Italian linen-silk yarns rather than the more common merino; some t-shirts are colored with environmentally-friendly seaweed dyes. This past week, they introduced a new line of henleys and short-sleeved tees made from Fulvia, the heavyweight champion of Supima cotton.
As many readers know, the process of making fabric starts with growing fibers (here being cotton), which are sorted, combed, and then spun into yarn. Longer fibers, called “long staple” in the industry, are more resilient to tearing and pilling. Supima is one of the world’s better brands of long-staple cotton (and it’s grown right here in the USA). It’s known for its strength, softness, and color retention, which is why it’s so prized. The Italian mill Mida takes American-grown cotton and then spins and knits these jerseys in Italy. These fabrics are stout and beefy, clocking in at a hefty 9.5oz. After they’re cut and sewn into garments, the manufacturer dyes these pieces whole to achieve a naturally lived-in look. Prices are just north of $100, but remember that if you pay a one-time fee of $25, you can get 50% off all full-retail prices for the rest of your life. Pair these this autumn with chinos, jeans, or fatigues.
Paul Winston, the proprietor of Winston Tailors and Chipp Neckwear, likes to say that his family’s company serves a more traditional-minded customer. But since the company’s founding in 1945, they’ve also made some pretty wild clothing. Paul’s father Sidney was known for producing things such as patchwork tweeds, madras trousers, and sport coats with vivid linings. And shortly after Paul joined the family’s company in 1961, he designed a small line of clever, pictogram neckties. The difference between sophisticated humor and bad taste, Paul tells us, is always “who and where.” “A chairman once gifted my ties to his board members, and that was considered good humor, but when the same ties are found at Nordstrom, they’re considered bad taste.”
Some of these ties are pretty innocent. There’s a raccoon tie, presumably for people like me, who love trash. Then festive holiday ties for occasions such as Thanksgiving dinners and Christmas parties. Paul has ties for people who think money grows on trees, as well as baseball fans. Other ties, however, are a bit more … well, for people with adult humor. When you look closely at the scribbly message on this tie, it says “fuck you.” There are chemistry-coded ties for people who are known for having a bit of piss and vinegar.
In a market where most companies have long offshored their manufacturing, Dapper Classics has stayed close to home and invested in a third-generation, family-owned North Carolina mill. Doing so has allowed them to keep a closer eye on production, ensure quality, and deliver high-quality socks at a lower price. Some of the world’s best socks indeed come from Western Europe — Bresciani and Marcoliani socks are widely and rightfully well-regarded. However, Dapper Classics can deliver the same quality for less because their customers don’t have to shoulder import costs. Most of their socks are knitted on single-cylinder, 200 needle count machines, so they’re both fine and durable. Dapper Classics also primarily sources two types of yarn: fine merino wool and Egyptian mercerized cotton. Both are colorfast, and the merino wool is super-washed so that it can go through a regular laundry cycle without the worry of shrinkage. After knitting, their socks are then hand-linked at the toes to eliminate the bumpy seam.
If you’re starting to build a better wardrobe, get six or seven pairs of their solid navy, over-the-calf merino socks. Over-the-calf socks stay up better than their mid-calf counterparts, and no one wants to see your bare calf when you sit down in tailored trousers. Solid navy socks also go with everything — trousers in blue, tan, brown, and olive. After that, consider getting some conservative patterns, such as pin dot and herringbone. A few fun motifs, such as the dog motifs picture above, can be nice for casual days. For people who live in warmer climes, Dapper Classics’ solid navy, mercerized cotton socks have to be felt to be believed. They’re breathable, durable, and comfortable when temperatures soar above 85 degrees.
I was looking through some of LuxeSwap’s auctions this past week and noticed that some listings were tagged with the keyword “BRIO.” The clothes looked nice, but I figured this must be an internal reference. Surely, it can’t mean that the clothes come from BRIO in Beijing.
For readers who may not know, BRIO is one of the best menswear shops in the world. It was recently rebranded as Atelier BRIO Pechino, as the company is now more focused on custom tailoring (although they still carry a stock of ready-to-wear). The company was founded some years ago by my friend George Wang, and the store’s selection reflects his taste. The clothes are exceptionally well-made and classic in design, but they’re always a little more modern and chic than what you typically find at other clothiers. Sexy is a taboo word in menswear, but these clothes are sexy. BRIO is like Loro Piana, but younger, fresher, and frankly cooler.
Matt over at LuxeSwap confirmed with me over email that these listings are indeed for clothes originally sold at BRIO. I have no idea how he was able to secure clothes from Beijing, but this is a rare chance to purchase clothes from one of the best shops in the world. Among the selection, you can find Orazio Luciano and Southwick tailoring, Sartoria Napolitano and Marol dress shirts, Resolute jeans, Rota trousers, and Jamieson’s knitwear. These brands are nothing new—many of them are decades-old heritage labels—but along with the top-end construction, you’re getting George’s keen eye for color and fabrics, which differentiates these goods from what you can find at other shops. Matt says the next three weeks will be full of BRIO drops, so stay tuned.
