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Proper Cloth, which has a great collection of men’s dress shirts, just released some new tailored clothing for spring. Included are some new fabrics for their online made-to-measure program, where you can get custom-made shirts by sending in the measurements of your body or your best-fitting button-up. Some notables include the summer-ready cotton-linen blends, which are available in dusty blue, rose ombre, and ginger plaids. Cotton-linen blends give you the best of both fibers—the linen will wick moisture from your skin, keeping you dry on humid days, while the cotton tames the wrinkles inherent in linen. The company also has some new Indian madras—that colorful plaid that South Asians invented after reinterpreting Scottish tartans in their local colors. Madras shirts pair well with jeans, chinos, and tailored trousers and can be an easy way to infuse some warm-weather cheer into an outfit.
The company also just released its soft-shouldered Waverley jacket in four different wool-linen fabrics. The solid blue and mid-brown herringbone will be your two most versatile options, as they can be worn with trousers in almost any color (tan, grey, and off-white), as well as blue jeans. But if you already have those colors covered in your wardrobe, consider the off-white option (pictured above). That can be worn with light blue jeans and dark brown trousers for summer soirees, such as cocktail parties and rooftop restaurant dinners.
Before “cut out the middleman” became a generic online marketing cliche, Gustin was one of the first businesses to actually deliver on that promise. They sold raw denim jeans through the traditional route—produced in a factory, then sold to retailers, who in turn marked them up and sold the items to consumers. At some point, Gustin took their business online and sold directly to consumers at the same price they were selling wholesale, creating a new business model that has been endlessly copied.
Their system works like this: they put up projects on their website, and consumers back them with pre-orders. If a project gets enough pre-orders, it goes into production. By being willing to wait a few weeks for the item to be produced, consumers can capitalize on a wholesale price. This system reduces waste (as there’s no unsold inventory) and allows Gustin to reduce margins while still making a profit.
At the moment, they just put up some new projects for their short-sleeved, shibori-dyed summer shirts. Shibori is similar to tie-dye, although not strictly the same. Whereas tie-dye refers to a method of tying a fabric before dyeing it, the Japanese method of shibori can involve tying, pleating, or even wrapping the material around a pole. The result is these beautifully complex, repeating patterns you see above. These shirts can be worn with jeans, chinos, and trucker jackets (all of which Gustin also sells).
There are two sides to American style. On one side, you have the buttoned-up, conservative look of trad, which involves sack-style suits, white oxford-cloth button-downs, rep striped ties, and Alden brogues. On the other side, you have something much more fun and celebratory. This includes everything from patchwork bleeding madras to critter pants to washable seersucker suits paired with white buckskin shoes. It’s the riotous look of attendees at the Kentucky Derby.
Such colorful clothes are the sort of thing you either know is for you or not. For something a little more subdued but no less fit for the occasion, Dapper Classics has Kentucky Derby-themed pocket squares. Made in Italy from wool-silk blends and produced in a respectable 14″ x 14″ size (ensuring that it’s big enough to stay in your breast pocket), these feature unique equestrian designs that will add a spot of color to any tailored ensemble. Since these are unique designs with non-repeating patterns, you can easily twist the pocket square here or three to show off certain colors, making them more versatile and ensuring that they will never too closely match your tie. The bright colors make them perfect for any summer outfit—even after the Kentucky Derby.
In the last few years, Spier & Mackay has developed a cult following for offering well-made, classically styled clothes for a fraction of the price of what you’d pay elsewhere. They have soft-shouldered suits and sport coats—cut in flattering proportions that actually cover your bum—starting at $328; mid-rise, slim-straight trousers at $128; oxford-cloth button-downs for $58; shawl collar cardigans for $198; and overcoats for $448 (currently marked down to $350). The clothes are typically made from European fabrics and come in a wide range of sizes, stretching from 34 to 44L. They even have a remote made-to-measure program if you inquire.
If you’re just starting to build a tailored wardrobe, we recommend sticking to the basics: a navy sport coat that you can pair with tailored trousers or jeans; a stack of light-blue button-down shirts; some grey wool trousers in seasonal materials (tropical wool for summer; flannel for winter); a “serious suit” in a sober color such as navy or grey for when you need it; and at least one, if not two, casual jackets. For spring/ summer, Spier & Mackay has some lightweight chore coats and military-styled field jackets (the S-22 has tons of details, such as a packable hood, removable lining, and nine spacious pockets for ample carrying space). Wear them with chinos or raw denim jeans, flannel button-ups, and work boots.
Chipp is an old Ivy-era clothier who’s dressed the likes of JFK and Andy Warhol, and since they’ve been around the New York garment trade forever, they also have access to some of the city’s best tailors. If you’re in NYC, they can make you a custom garment, but for shoppers online, they also have both ready-made and custom-order accessories. Their standard ties, for example, measure 3.25″ x 58″, but they can also shorten, lengthen, widen, or narrow ties for just $10. To place an order, go to their site and order one of the 60″ or 62″ ties. Then in the comment section, specify exactly what you want (say, a 3″ x 60″ tie). Turnaround time for custom orders is two weeks. And like everything Chipp sells, these are fully made in NYC.
We all have clothes in the back of our closets that haven’t seen the light of day in years, languishing as a sad reminder of things we intended to wear but never did. If you want to recoup some of the money you spent on those purchases, consider sending the clothes to LuxeSwap, an online consignor who will help you sell the clothes on eBay. Let’s be real—you have, very likely, thought about selling the clothes yourself but never got around to it. LuxeSwap takes a 40% cut of the profits you make, but in return, they do all the hard work of selling your stuff. That means taking professional photos of your item in their studio, getting measurements, creating eBay listings, answering buyers’ questions, and fulfilling orders. If you’re willing to take your money in the form of store credit at No Man Walks Alone, LuxeSwap will even lower their cut to 30%, and No Man Walks Alone will top off your credit with an extra 10%. That means more closet space, less clutter, and a bit of extra cash to buy stuff you’ll actually wear.
To get the process started, just make a list of the things you want to sell—the brand, size, and type of item—and email it to LuxeSwap. They’ll review it to make sure it’s stuff they think they can sell. LuxeSwap focuses on high-end goods in sellable condition (such as canvassed suits, high-end casualwear, and Goodyear welted shoes, not stained Gap t-shirts or Uniqlo chinos). Once they approve the list, you can box everything up and send it to them. Your store credit or cashable check should arrive a few weeks later. If you’re based in the Continental US, LuxeSwap will reimburse you for your shipping costs, making this a pain-free process.
