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Long-time readers may recall the legendary menswear blog A Suitable Wardrobe, written by Will Boehlke. The site introduced many people, including yours truly, to nuances in tailored clothing, such as how to pay attention to various fabric weights and weaves. Will had this term he liked to use every year around this time. “Shoulder season” refers to those transitional months when a cold winter eases into a warm spring or when a warm summer eases into a cooler autumn. During those months, Will advised readers to consider wearing certain fabrics.
Proper Cloth recently received a new shipment of goods made from those types of materials: brushed chambray and Italian merino shirtings, merino-silk crewneck sweaters, and midweight denim for custom-made jeans. The Portuguese brushed chambray fabric above can be used to make a button-up in any style, including weekend-ready utility shirts that can be paired with denim and sport coats.
Proper Cloth allows you to order a fabric sample before committing to an order, so you can feel the material in your hand. They also offer free remakes on all first-time orders, which allows you to perfect the fit. Once you have your pattern down, ordering new shirts is supremely easy, and you no longer have to rely on designers to come up with the styles you desire. Just a few clicks, and a new custom-made shirt arrives at your door a couple of weeks later.
Gustin has brought back one of their best-selling items, the 1968 jeans. Made from raw, selvedge denim woven at Cone Mill’s famous but now sadly defunct White Oak plant, these jeans represent the kind of value that Gustin has built its reputation on. The jeans were made in America from start to finish using fabric woven in North Carolina and then sewing done in California. Despite being produced fully in the United States, Gustin is able to sell them for just $87 because they sell directly to consumers and have no overstock (since everything is sold on pre-order). Consequently, you are getting what would essentially be a store’s wholesale price.
Available in Gustin’s slim, skinny, and straight fits, these raw denim jeans are designed to fade naturally over time. That means the material is a little stiff at first—just as jeans were before the advent of pre-wash denim. Raw indigo denim can also sometimes undergo a process called crocking, which means the blue dye rubs off a little in the beginning (if you’ve never worn raw denim, we recommend wearing them about ten times before you sit on things like a white couch). On the upside, the fades you develop end up looking much more natural, and they conform to the places where you actually bend your legs. This is why, decades after raw denim became a “thing” in the menswear community, the material still has a loyal following. Gustin’s $87 raw denim jeans cost about half of what you’d pay elsewhere for the same quality. Pair them with any kind of classic casualwear: grey sweatshirts, cream Aran sweaters, oxford cloth button-downs, flannel shirts, olive field jackets, peacoats, and brown leather bomber jackets.
If you didn’t have a good Valentine’s Day, you can make it up to yourself by taking advantage of Dapper Classics’ sale tomorrow. On Thursday, February 15th, they’re offering 15% off all socks (no code needed; the discount is automatically applied at checkout).
This would be a good time to stock up on basics, such as navy over-the-calf socks in wool or cotton, which can be paired with any type of tailored outfit short of a black suit (which calls for black socks). Get the wool versions for three-season wear, and then the cotton ones for summer (or if your climate generally leans hot). Dapper Classics’ socks are made at a third-generation, family-owned mill in North Carolina. They are so invested in American manufacturing that they even bought special machinery for the mill.
Dapper Classics’ socks are unusual in that they’re made from top-end mercerized cotton and fine merino wool, then hand-linked at the toes. They compare well to top-end socks from European suppliers such as Marcoliani and Bresciani. However, since they don’t pay for international shipping and duties, they can sell socks for about a third less than their direct competitors. Prices get even better with sale season, such as the one tomorrow.
Over the last few years, Spier & Mackay has built a cult following for their ability to supply classic, well-made clothing at relatively affordable prices. Their suits and sport coats are made with flattering, middle-of-the-road proportions—lapels that end halfway from the collar to the shoulder, jackets that end halfway from the collar to the floor. Typically, at this price point, you only see very short and slim jackets that don’t flatter anyone. Somehow, Spier & Mackay has been able to offer things such as half-canvassed sport coats, mid-rise tailored trousers, and shawl collar cardigans at about half of what their competitors charge.
If you’re just getting into tailored clothing, consider basics such as navy hopsack sport coats, grey wool trousers, and light blue oxford cloth button-down shirts. Chunky cream or grey sweaters can be teamed with anything from dressier trousers to denim, while tailored topcoats give you the flattering effects of tailoring without any of the stiff formality. Remember that Spier & Mackay offers free returns on your first order, so it’s easy to try things out.
If you’re just starting to build a neckwear wardrobe, you could do worse than starting with a basic grenadine. The textured Italian silk adds visual interest to solid-colored sport coats but is also subdued enough to pair with patterned jackets. Your next few ties should continue to be basic — rep stripes, foulards, and perhaps a knit for casual occasions.
Once you have the basics, consider getting things in more seasonal fabrics. Raw silk and linen are ideal for summer. However, in the fall and winter months, you’ll want things such as tweed, cashmere, wool challis, and most of all, ancient madder. Paul at Chipp Neckwear once told me that the chalky hand of ancient madder reminds him of a horse’s wet nose. I’ve always thought that description is charming. Madder ties are useful in the winter because they sit in the middle in terms of formality. They’re just as good with tweed and corduroy sport coats as they are with worsted suits. Chipp’s ties are made in NYC using the same English silks as what you’ll find from top-tier producers, except theirs cost less than $70.
Our friend Matt at LuxeSwap famously thrifted his way into a Ferrari, buying gently used, high-end clothes at estate sales and second-hand shops and then selling them on eBay. Matt has been thrifting his whole life and has a sharp eye for quality. As a longtime member of StyleForum, he knows the ins and outs of storied brands that many have long forgotten. Through this process, he’s built a sterling reputation online as being one of the best sellers for quality menswear.
Some years ago, he changed his business model. Instead of scouring for high-end, second-hand clothes in his community, he went straight to the source. By becoming one of the most trusted names in the vintage clothing market, he’s been able to help people clear out their closets and sell things to keen-eyed buyers. If you’re looking to clear out some stuff in your wardrobe, you can always contact him. He does all the hard work of listing your stuff on eBay and fulfilling orders, and only takes a small commission.
For deal-hungry shoppers, LuxeSwap’s eBay auction list should be a first port of call. There, you can find things such as tweed O’Connell’s Balmacaan coats, cashmere Inis Meain Arans, Drake’s iconic Moghul scarves, Beams cable knits, summer-ready 18 East camp collar shirts, Cifonelli suits, and Norwegian Rain coats. To find the best of LuxeSwap’s stock, do a search for #1 Menswear. New auctions go up every Thursday.
